Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont know the measurements, tbh. I would go out and measure them, but i dont have anything to measure with at the moment :thanks:

It doesn't really feel like it's a huge difference in size though.

Back on topic ...

Changed AFM over with a loaned AFM to try and resolve why my stag hits a 5,000rpm limiter ... misfires all over the place. But didn't eliminate the problem.

I've been going thru the elimination process with:

checked cas timing

replaced plugs and gap

replaced coilpacks

replaced air filter

replaced fuel filter

replaced O2 sensor

replaced MAF

Checked all old plugs and they were an even, nice colour. My A/F Ratio meter is telling me the mixtures are rich up top. But I've touched nothing since my last tune. Try a few more things, then I'll just throw it to the tuners. Hoping to save myself some $$$ first.

On the weekend, I'm also going to check the compression in each cylinder for the hell of it.

will it rev past 5k in neutral? or is the problem under load?

check all your cooler joiners and clamps

sounds like you've got a boost leak somewhere

which means that the afm would see much more air going through the system which could lead to you maxing out the afm voltage which gives you a fuel cut similar to the cut at redline

Got my new rotors and pads on the M35 today.. much better no more warped discs!

I went with just the standard size. DBA 4000 XS on the front with QFM A1RM pads, and RDA slotted on the back with QFM HPX pads. (couldnt believe how small the rear pads are!!!!

seems good so far much better pedal feel have to see how they run through the twisty's :thanks::down: before i can give a good review.

but that will have to wait till there worn in a bit.

heres the pics

front

IMG_0211.jpg

IMG_0212.jpg

IMG_0214.jpg

back

IMG_0213.jpg

Edited by matty_M35
just gave the stagea a good clean, all ready for the cruise tomorrow. Now i just hope it doesn't rain in the morning!
This is Adelaide, of course it will rain tomorrow :thanks:
This is Adelaide, of course it will rain tomorrow :thanks:

yeah i know, forecast for strong winds too, just hoping that they aree tailwinds, so my stag doesn't feel so slow! LOL

just gave the stagea a good clean, all ready for the cruise tomorrow. Now i just hope it doesn't rain in the morning!

I gave mine a wipe over too. Dunno why I bothered, it'll rain in the morning and my efforts will have been for nothing :thanks:

howd the cruise end up boys??

removed my turbo/dump

intake mani

ex mani headsheild

all my water lines

timing belt

rocker covers

.... still no sign of dramas yet.. dreading opening the head up soon!!!

braught 33 brakes, manual console, hand brake.... :D all this bullshit better pay off!!!

I went to start mine this arvo, and my approx. 6 week old battery is DEAD! I only used it on Thursday night, so it's not as if it's been left there for weeks at a time!

Tomorrow or Tuesday I'll take it in for testing and possible replacement under warranty.

I went to start mine this arvo, and my approx. 6 week old battery is DEAD! I only used it on Thursday night, so it's not as if it's been left there for weeks at a time!

Tomorrow or Tuesday I'll take it in for testing and possible replacement under warranty.

Jeez, that's bad!

Started up the Stag yesterday for the first time in a month. Started better than it did back then :banana:

cruise was good, 10 stageas rolled up, killer run thru the hills. it was a good day, bit cold tho

... and don't forget the fallen rocks on Gorge Road :)

Weather was cold and wet, but everyone had a good time and made it from A to B safely in the process.

:banana:

Got home from holidays last night

thought I'd take the stag for a blast,seen as she's been sitting for a week and abit all alone in the shed

went really well,was love getting back behind the wheel

till I popped another cooler literally out the front of my house,in the middle of my street,battery went dead again,called the raa and the fella that came out to help steered my car into the gutter as I pushed and munted one of my rims...

Awesome

Should have left it on and wound the boost up John like we discussed.. laggy highflow and only running 7psi means you get all the crap lag of a big turbo and none of the fun :) it was also running the stock tune so you really can't expect much..

With VCT working my highflow is making 15psi by 3500rpm and now that I don't have a hole in my cooler pipe it pulls much harder :action-smiley-069:

Did you put that split dump pipe on?

Well the rebuilt turbo is starting to spool at 1800 rpm, it is at full boost at about 3000rpm. It is now set at 10psi, which is not only safe for the turbo, but is where the air starts getting too hot, so no point in any higher boost. As I am not interested in chasing max power and doing intercooler and all the the other mods that I would have to, I am very happy as it is. The car with the old engine was making 162kw ATW, now 194kw, (same 4WD Dynopak dyno). The Nistune is a bit of a disappointment, in that it will not control boost. It did allow us to change the A/F ratios though, and some timing etc. It leaves all the negative timing at around 6000 rpm, (and Nistune say they didn't know what this was for), which seems to be where the car always backfires on gear change.

This small upgrade, has made this a far more tractable car, without all the expense. As for it running a stock tune, like I said this makes no difference IF the turbo can't produce power boost anyway. Actually after looking at the dyno sheets the Hi-flow wasn't on max until 4000 rpm! It was bloody awful!

Dyno sheets coming soon, (I forgot them). Then down to the drag track to see how this relates into a 1/4 mile.

The split dump was a waste of time IMO, the back pressure was only 2psi @ 4700rpm. About the same as a good fart!

Edited by Appealing
Well the rebuilt turbo is starting to spool at 1800 rpm, it is at full boost at about 3000rpm. It is now set at 10psi, which is not only safe for the turbo, but is where the air starts getting too hot, so no point in any higher boost. As I am not interested in chasing max power and doing intercooler and all the the other mods that I would have to, I am very happy as it is. The car with the old engine was making 162kw ATW, now 194kw, (same 4WD Dynopak dyno). The Nistune is a bit of a disappointment, in that it will not control boost. It did allow us to change the A/F ratios though, and some timing etc. It leaves all the negative timing at around 6000 rpm, (and Nistune say they didn't know what this was for), which seems to be where the car always backfires on gear change.

This small upgrade, has made this a far more tractable car, without all the expense. As for it running a stock tune, like I said this makes no difference IF the turbo can't produce power boost anyway. Actually after looking at the dyno sheets the Hi-flow wasn't on max until 4000 rpm! It was bloody awful!

Dyno sheets coming soon, (I forgot them). Then down to the drag track to see how this relates into a 1/4 mile.

The split dump was a waste of time IMO, the back pressure was only 2psi @ 4700rpm. About the same as a good fart!

Edit: CBF. You wouldn't listen in person so I'm not going to bother.

Edited by bubba

Got the ARC FMIC sitting in the garage to go in after the wedding. My Stagea is one of 3 Stageas as my wedding cars. I did install the replacement driver side mirror I got from Import Monster over the weekend. Looking at buying an Apexi SAFC Neo now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...