Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WTF have you done Keir :) .....an R33 :) ....if you can get past the look of it there not to bad on the track......not to bad at all!

BTW.....V35 manual radiator will fit with some very minor mods......it's wider and deeper than ours but it does fit....you will have to run a trans coolers or two though.

i have that PWR trans cooler, so no problems there. I can mount it right next to the factory radiator.

whats hard about fitting it? and what mods? is a Z33 radiator the same as a V35?

i need to move on this fast as it leaks out each time i stop the car :)

i have that PWR trans cooler, so no problems there. I can mount it right next to the factory radiator.

whats hard about fitting it? and what mods? is a Z33 radiator the same as a V35?

i need to move on this fast as it leaks out each time i stop the car :unsure:

just need to cut some plastic bits for the extra width.....the base was just a matter of remounting.....you can use anything....I just used some thick plastic Zipties......looks factory.....I'll take some photo's tonight as it's still mounted to the front frame.

I don't know if the 350Z and V35 radiators are the same....me thinks no....but I could be wrong!

Is it true that the 350z or one of the v35/g35 rads is compatible, with some minor modding of the radiator support?

If so I'd be going down that route, 50mm thick 350z rad's are going for $200- $400 US on Ebay motors, depends on what brand you choose.

Bigger core, alloy construction, just the issue of A/T heat exchanger to deal with.

Either will fit, but the Z33 cap will not permit you to use the stock air funnel (it is on the passenger side)

Make sure you get a G35 one and take note of the side the cap is on.... oh, and with a larger radiator be prepared to cut a bit of the "glass composite" frame

lol i was waiting for that.

you evidently havent seen me drive.

i wasnt going to buy an s14 because it looked cool..and then blow its sr20 up the first week :blink:

im hoping the rb25 lasts at least 2 weeks. lol

i wouldve got kudos if i pasted this in the skyline thread. lol

Nothing gay about driving with the arse out, eh Kier? :P

just need to cut some plastic bits for the extra width.....the base was just a matter of remounting.....you can use anything....I just used some thick plastic Zipties......looks factory.....I'll take some photo's tonight as it's still mounted to the front frame.

:unsure: Duuuuuuuude......

lol thanks for the info guys!

ill be getting a V35 radiator and having a shop install the factory transmission loop, or get them to install one so i can still drive the car short distances...........

:unsure: Duuuuuuuude......

what?......lot better that the factory setup....not really possible to weld up some new bottom mounts onto the plastic.....there is slots that the Zipties slot through so it all looks pretty much factory......it's all held in by the pipes and top clip's as well....would not have done it if it looked like shit or didn't work!

btw.......YEH!.....nice radiator Scott! :blink:

Edited by Jetwreck
Seemingly... I still would like to know how much you cut out to get that beast of a radiator in there

Just a slight shave off the top fiberglass...

Mine is still stinking of coolant, dont buy silicone pipes guys if you hate the smell...

an S14 would be better, S15 better still!!

R33 is the poor man's nissan :unsure:

yeap.. thats why it only cost $5600 :devil:

its JDM's version of a commodore, my JDM bogadore is even black ..how perfect!

nah i reckon r33's look aight :blink:

and s15's are for girls blouses

:P

Edited by PetroDola
Just a slight shave off the top fiberglass...

Mine is still stinking of coolant, dont buy silicone pipes guys if you hate the smell...

lol... I have a set at home waiting to go on. Somewhat thicker and stiffer wall that the one's you bought though :unsure:

Edited by iamhe77
yeap.. thats why it only cost $5600 :P

its JDM's version of a commodore, my JDM bogadore is even black ..how perfect!

nah i reckon r33's look aight :unsure:

and s15's are for girls blouses

:blink:

R33 = Bogan mobile for import owners

S15 = Great chassis, very good drivetrain, lovely looks

R33 = Bogan mobile for import owners

S15 = Great chassis, very good drivetrain, lovely looks

pfft s15 drivetrain is good for a sr20..but wont do burnouts everyday hey, again girls blouse theory :unsure:

its a 4 cylinder.. yeah lets make it do an 9 second quarter mile once or twice before it required a rebuild.. who wants that crap.

r33 however has the strongest box nissan ever made :blink:

besides.. for $5600 not exactly s15 budget no :P

(just the mods are worth what im paying for the car)

if i had the money for a s15.. id just buy a gtr :devil:

Edited by PetroDola
pfft s15 drivetrain is good for a sr20..but wont do burnouts everyday hey, again girls blouse theory :unsure:

wanna bet?? i owned two. they got hammered every day, every time i drove them :blink:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...