Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Who knows where their going to put a T62R in that engine bay, but if you make enough space I guess where the airbox sits.

550309_10151088322561707_236927282_n.jpg

I always thought the airbox was overrated any how.

Needs to be rotated 90 degrees, add some creative exhaust manifolds and an inlet track that puts the pod outside the engine bay... then ceramic coat everything!

Would be able to run a radiator and air con then.

I'm more interested in the gearbox. Looks like an R34 GTR box. Not sure what is custom to make it fit, besides the gearbox crossmember?

Also, is the extended sump really necessary on these things, or are they just doing it out of habit/experience with other motors?

The r34 box needs extensive mods to fit Ryan, custom cut and shut bellhousing, major floor pan modification, custom gearbox mounts etc. I would say there is an easy 20k blown there at least.

The extended sump is only needed for the oil return, my car was fine at the track oil pickup wise, so our stock setup works very well.

The r34 box needs extensive mods to fit Ryan, custom cut and shut bellhousing, major floor pan modification, custom gearbox mounts etc. I would say there is an easy 20k blown there at least.

Didn't look like the bell housing had been cut and shut to my untrained eye though?

Didn't look like the bell housing had been cut and shut to my untrained eye though?

Not that I have a trained eye by any stretch, nor do I know the GTR gearbox design.. but is that actually a factor weld?

540116_10151087294061707_1907688700_n.jpg

The best chance we had was the 350z guy who went AWD, he was planning to cad the bellhousing and sell an AWD kit for the 34 box. Costs were too high unfortunately. RWD should be easy with a V35 manual halfcut. Still looking for one though...

The best chance we had was the 350z guy who went AWD, he was planning to cad the bellhousing and sell an AWD kit for the 34 box. Costs were too high unfortunately.

Costs to CAD it were too high?

The best chance we had was the 350z guy who went AWD, he was planning to cad the bellhousing and sell an AWD kit for the 34 box. Costs were too high unfortunately. RWD should be easy with a V35 manual halfcut. Still looking for one though...

So he didn't finish his AWD conversion, or he did but the kits worked out too expensive?

Hows your conversion going Scott? Thought you'd be doing RWD skids by now...

So he didn't finish his AWD conversion, or he did but the kits worked out too expensive?

Hows your conversion going Scott? Thought you'd be doing RWD skids by now...

He finished his, just the parts would cost too much to replicate.

I need to find a V35 halfcut first Ryan, do you have one? :P

(The auto is being strengthened some more, I should have it back on the road next week.)

He finished his, just the parts would cost too much to replicate.

I need to find a V35 halfcut first Ryan, do you have one? :P

(The auto is being strengthened some more, I should have it back on the road next week.)

What do you need off the V35? Do you really need the whole halfcut?

EDIT: Don't we have a thread that we're supposed to discuss this shit in? :P

Hello Gents.

Just so happens I had a little conversation with the Owner of Mercury Motorsport at the SAU nats about this car, and found out some details. I'll read the rest of the thread, since I've been gone and fill in the blanks.

Ok, so, I'll give some general info, because I know the owner still pokes round these parts, so no numbers or anything in his respect.

The owner would like it to be a daily driver, but I think it will turn out a weekend car. He was thinking of going t51, but once the t62 was looked at, change was made.

So, the motor is a crate motor from gtm in the US. Basically mercury told him to "tick every option box" when building the motor. Took 4 months to get here. Cost a lot of money.

We all know about the gearbox. They will use the stock attesa pump system to run the transfer case.

Front and rear diffs are yet to be decided on, but LSDs will be used.

The turbo will sit off custom made exhaust manifolds, point forwards tucked under the front reo. This will require a custom radiator. Owner wants to retain AC, but I think realistically the AC will be deleted.

A new p/s engine mount will be fabricated to clear the manifold, and dump.

Obviously external gate or some kind.

Ecu will be a haltech platinum pro ps2000. Maybe with a custom dash.

Owner bought the intake plenum.

So all in all, this is a serious investment on behalf of the owner. Once the teething issues are sorted out, which there will invariably be, this will represent the craziest M35 worldwide.

I hope the owner doesn't mind me posting, but I think we should all be able to share in his excitement about this build.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...