Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah at street power levels the extra valve train weight is more than made up for by extra valve area and the fact you have dual cams meaning less compromise with valve timing, however is it possible that at extreme rpm of 10-11k which some of these motors see that the extra valve train loss could become an issue, does anyone know if more or less lift can be achieved with single vs twin cam rbs?

Plenty of twincam RB's at 12000RPM+++

Not sure on the lift though although I woulnd't assume so.

Think about it, at higher flow levels the increased area and variability between INLET and EXHAUST with added tuneability becomes an even greater benefit.

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Think about it, at higher flow levels the increased area and variability between INLET and EXHAUST with added tuneability becomes an even greater benefit.

This is what I would have assumed as well, just trying to get an idea about why the records aren't basically the asme, probably has nothing to do with actual power and more to do with the cars.

This is what I would have assumed as well, just trying to get an idea about why the records aren't basically the asme, probably has nothing to do with actual power and more to do with the cars.

Yeah mate, that's pretty much what I've assumed as well.

I'll throw in my 2 cents here.

I own a high comp Tomei 2.8 with a set of decent cams with a pair of GT RS's hanging off the side of it. After driving a 3 litre with -10s (MarkoR1's) and being in N1GTR's car with a very similar setup I would not even look at the 2.6, 2.7 or 2.8 engines. It almost wants me to throw mine in the bin and build a 3 litre + engine. All that rubbish you hear about "30's dont rev" is exactly that.... a load of crap.

I'll throw in my 2 cents here.

I own a high comp Tomei 2.8 with a set of decent cams with a pair of GT RS's hanging off the side of it. After driving a 3 litre with -10s (MarkoR1's) and being in N1GTR's car with a very similar setup I would not even look at the 2.6, 2.7 or 2.8 engines. It almost wants me to throw mine in the bin and build a 3 litre + engine. All that rubbish you hear about "30's dont rev" is exactly that.... a load of crap.

Don't throw it away Paul; just leave it out the front and I will come get it :P

a block in crappy condition in the us goes for a minimum of 1k in the usa, they average around 2k not including machine work, belt, headgaskt, gaskets, and yadda, bare minumum is 5k for a 3 liter block to be operational in the us, i would just do a 2jz...

shipping a whole engine block would cost at least $500 if not more, $1k is probably a pretty accurate outcome for buying a $100 block shipping it there and some markup to make it actually worth while.

Edited by Rolls
I'll throw in my 2 cents here.

I own a high comp Tomei 2.8 with a set of decent cams with a pair of GT RS's hanging off the side of it. After driving a 3 litre with -10s (MarkoR1's) and being in N1GTR's car with a very similar setup I would not even look at the 2.6, 2.7 or 2.8 engines. It almost wants me to throw mine in the bin and build a 3 litre + engine. All that rubbish you hear about "30's dont rev" is exactly that.... a load of crap.

Agreed. A well built/balanced RB30 can rev to 8 and beyond without rattling itself to pieces.

The head and turbo combo is the key for sustaining power all the way up there though.

Mine is going to 8000rpm maybe more if the head allows :whistling:

sadly i think i will never achieve the 3 liter status, if my stroker 2.7 dies, i am going neo and calling it a day lol, i would love to get a rb30 though the two i have seen were ridiclous.

current mods:

t517z turbos

264 greddy cams

trust front/dump pipes

trust PEII cat back exhaust

trust 720cc injectors

power fc d-jetro

os giken twin plate

basically i wana build the ultimate stagea in all aspects power, looks, interior the complete package and wana make 600 hp+ at least to make the wagon really quick due to its weight, it will be a show then street car. the budget i have is approx. 40k for engine.

If you want to build the ultimate Stagea you will have to go north of 600awkw (not 600hp) to beat Psymin's ultimate Stagea. He used a 2.8 stroker kit but bang for buck Rb30 will get youi there cheaper - see Spool or Proengines or RIPs: http://www.ripsltd.com/
If you want to build the ultimate Stagea you will have to go north of 600awkw (not 600hp) to beat Psymin's ultimate Stagea. He used a 2.8 stroker kit but bang for buck Rb30 will get youi there cheaper - see Spool or Proengines or RIPs: http://www.ripsltd.com/

nissanstageapc151fq690x.jpg

"Click."

Edited by dirtyRS4

thanks for all the ideas and advice i will let you know what happens and i know about PSYMIN's stagea and if i wanted to build the ultimate power stagea i would have to go north of 757kw but thats not what i'm after. I'm after a show quality stagea big custom stereo, custom paint and engine with power to back it up so it isnt all show (which i have yet to see anyone do to a stag PSYMIN being the closest). Thanks again for all the help will keep you posted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've heard the Tomei USA head gaskets are decent if you want to o-ring the heads but otherwise not recommended.
    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
×
×
  • Create New...