Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

on an r33 gtst, the crossover pipe and intercooler piping for a fmic gets pretty farking hot after driving, so all the work the intercooler is doing is just being canceled out from the hot pipes in the engine bay, is it worth wrapping the intake piping in the engine bay including the crossover pipe in insulation tape to block out some heat?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344039-insulating-the-crossover-pipe/
Share on other sites

The intercooler is a heat exchanger, not a radiator.

The heat only transfers from the pipe/cooler into the air stream when you decel or idle. Almost the instant you mash the throttle the cool air coming from the intercooler is able to enter the engine without absorbing too much heat.

If you were to HPC coat the inside and out, I'm sure you might get a small advantage but the cost would far outweigh the advantages

The intercooler is a heat exchanger, not a radiator.

The heat only transfers from the pipe/cooler into the air stream when you decel or idle. Almost the instant you mash the throttle the cool air coming from the intercooler is able to enter the engine without absorbing too much heat.

If you were to HPC coat the inside and out, I'm sure you might get a small advantage but the cost would far outweigh the advantages

The intercooler is a heat exchanger. As is the radiator.

The point is that the amount of heat the turbo puts into the compressed air (Which is a measure of its inefficiency) is alot less at lower throttle openings than at WOT. So there is less heat to be removed at low power levels rather than the inter cooling being less able to remove it.

The point is that the amount of heat transferred to the pipe section per lb of air (or however you like to measure your air) is negligible. Hence it is not worth bothering insulating the pipe.

Or in other words.

No.

EH???

lunch time brain fart and I still can't think of the correct word.

Radiators are also a type of heat exchanger but what I am trying to say is that the intercooler will absorb heat from the charge air on acceleration, then on decel a lot of that heat will be put back into the air stream. If you hook up temp sensors and monitor before and after you will see what I am talking about

lunch time brain fart and I still can't think of the correct word.

Radiators are also a type of heat exchanger but what I am trying to say is that the intercooler will absorb heat from the charge air on acceleration, then on decel a lot of that heat will be put back into the air stream. If you hook up temp sensors and monitor before and after you will see what I am talking about

"Heat sink" the two elusive words??

  • 2 months later...

I have recently tried this and there is a slight noticeable difference. On paper people may disagree, however i noticed it. I almost went for a turn flow intercooler for this reason. I used some heat reflective shining tape from bunning's and wrapped it around twice and then back along that whole tube. I swear it made a difference and the engine feels a tiny bit more punchy. ( wild guess and i would say 1 - 2 kw @ wheels ) i tried it on the same day in similar temperatures as well. I am just an amateur though but thought i would comment

glad i did it.

lunch time brain fart and I still can't think of the correct word.

Radiators are also a type of heat exchanger but what I am trying to say is that the intercooler will absorb heat from the charge air on acceleration, then on decel a lot of that heat will be put back into the air stream. If you hook up temp sensors and monitor before and after you will see what I am talking about

The heat on Decel would be due to the lack of flow through the system into the engine due to the throttle body being closed? And I guess without flow the air will will absorb heat from engine, pipes etc.

Something I've never really thought about till now

Just doing some more research. found a guy who has measured the difference in temperature

7 - 10 degrees ( don't know what car though but it says the return pipe goes over the radiator like aftermarket gts-t - gtt FMIC kit )

Does anyone agree that even a drop in 5 degree might get you 1 - 2 kw for all the non believers

using oven mitts ?

Insulating the Return

In that article the guy says that his intercooler exit temperature is almost ambient, so he has optimised for the condition when the turbo is doing next to nothing. If he were to try again with a turbo running hard (so the compressor is adding heat) then he would find that insulating the pipe is a backwards step (assuming underbonnet temperatures are less than compressed air temperatures). But yeah, probably doesnt make much difference either way, as sections of pipe are not great heat exchangers.

Djr has it right, the answer is

No

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
×
×
  • Create New...