Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Open up the rb25 dyno thread and hit search and put in gt3076 and gt35, gt3582 for some results to compare to

Well in that case I have no idea! heh

is it possibly they don't do many RBs and have gotten it a bit wrong?

Lee Wilson. The owner raced his own r33. They have tuned HEAPS it's like 40% Subaru, 20% skylines 20% Holden's/fords. The odd porches, rescently s couple r35s etc.make up the rest.

Dunno,it is possible its a lazy tune and has more tweaking that could benefit it..

its also possible they dont want to push his engine for fear of liability issues..

maybe the engines f**ked, did you get it checked before you threw a huge turbo on it??

how is your car set up shifty..exhaust ecu injectors etc..have u told us and i missed it??

Full 3" Turbo back. Coilpacks. Cai. Gizzmo boost controller. Sards 850cc sidefeeds. Link ecu. Fmic.

Entire engines been checked as I had a couple issus. Crank angle sensor was stuffed. Then there was an issue with the head. That was taken off and sent away and fixed. Everything else was checked. They had it for 10 weeks. I'm worried about them using an avo actuator.over a garret one.

Dunno,it is possible its a lazy tune and has more tweaking that could benefit it..

its also possible they dont want to push his engine for fear of liability issues..

maybe the engines f**ked, did you get it checked before you threw a huge turbo on it??

how is your car set up shifty..exhaust ecu injectors etc..have u told us and i missed it??

They already said they don't want to push further until I have internals.

Edited by R31Nismoid

^^this what im talking about Ash but yeah it doesnt explain the lazyiness down low i know..

How is correctly setting up boost control not wanting to push a motor?

AVO realistically have done nothing special in the world of performance for many years. Least of all anything RB related.

It simply comes down to poor boost control. Why a HD Garrett actuator wasn't used just like everyone else uses i don't know, but its the logical place to start.

Oh :ermm:

So if the actuator is the problem why has he not been informed of this and how do you know it wasnt a HD one...have i missed something???

What controls boost?

Actuator & wastegate.

What else can it be on an internal gate turbo?

People have GT3071's come on 800-1000rpm sooner, making the same power and are reliable as it gets. Setting up boost control on purpose to be laggy is not logical at all, so if that's whats been done then I'm shocked @ such a decision as it has nothing to do with leaning on a motor.

Oh :ermm:

So if the actuator is the problem why has he not been informed of this and how do you know it wasnt a HD one...???

when setting up the quote he specificaly said he will use a avo one "same thing" what's HD? High def?

Edited by ShiftyTys

Heavy Duty. Look mate sitting here posting 100 posts a night about it - it's going to fix it.

Walk into AVO, ask them why boost response/setup is poor and inform them you are not happy with it and it should be more responsive.

Heavy Duty. Look mate sitting here posting 100 posts a night about it - it's going to fix it.

Walk into AVO, ask them why boost response/setup is poor and inform them you are not happy with it and it should be more responsive.

If I can't come here and ask 100 questions a night what's the point of joining this community? I walke.in today. That's how o got the chart. They said they will try and adjust timing. Is it a general concensus to go to garret HD actuator.

Can't fix boost control with a keyboard! ;)

Timing has little to do with how laggy your car is mate. Timing won't make as much of a difference.

If you took the reference off the actuator (holding the gate shut), i'd be surprised if you didn't see boost ramp up noticeably earlier.

Obviously ONLY do this on a dyno under controlled conditions as boost will continue to spike (as the gate is 100% closed).

Can't fix boost control with a keyboard! ;)

Timing has little to do with how laggy your car is mate. Timing won't make as much of a difference.

If you took the reference off the actuator (holding the gate shut), i'd be surprised if you didn't see boost ramp up noticeably earlier.

Obviously ONLY do this on a dyno under controlled conditions as boost will continue to spike (as the gate is 100% closed).

Lol @ keyboard fixing boost issue.

Yeh ill tell them to swap to HD garret regardless.

Well don't just go in there saying that mate. It's just going to cost you more money.

I've never seen an AVO actuator so its possible they can put more pre-load on it.

But then given you are running an EBC, perhaps it's not quite set-up correctly either - or its both.

I'd simply be asking the question first, give them a chance to fix it or see what they say.

If it's not satisfactory in your eyes, or you just want a 2nd opinion for peace of mind - then go somewhere else. RE Customs, Sabaddin Automotive, Chequered Tuning - All 3 very reasonable workshops that have worked on many skylines/RB's lately & not too far from you/reasonably priced.

Well don't just go in there saying that mate. It's just going to cost you more money.

I've never seen an AVO actuator so its possible they can put more pre-load on it.

But then given you are running an EBC, perhaps it's not quite set-up correctly either - or its both.

I'd simply be asking the question first, give them a chance to fix it or see what they say.

If it's not satisfactory in your eyes, or you just want a 2nd opinion for peace of mind - then go somewhere else. RE Customs, Sabaddin Automotive, Chequered Tuning - All 3 very reasonable workshops that have worked on many skylines/RB's lately & not too far from you/reasonably priced.

I've asked. There only answer was "we will try adjust the cam gears. That's all we can do"

http://www.skylinesa...s/page__st__680

Post 694.

That's pretty good isnt it? 3071 with. 82.

Yeah it's not bad ;)

I can absolutely guarantee that you'll hate your car as it sits now once you've been in one that's properly set up. I advise you get it sorted mate, if that means another tuner then so be it.

Cheltenham is Vic isnt it? Dont you have the flagship ECU for SAU's flagship tuner?

Get your ass down to Status and tell AVO where to stick it. I have never used status but this forum shows nothing but good rep and someone punting a BIG market on poor business ethics. In lamens terms he is too well known on such a large scale to not do right by you, it would cost him too much business to get bad feedback on this forum.

Also, Hypergear may be able to sort you a better actuator for cheaper than a garrett HD item if yours falls through.

Well there is your answer from AVO if they think it is a cam gear issue.

Talk to one of the other shops, show them the dyno charts and see what they say.

It was more of a "that's the way the turbo s, we will see if can gears help. But it wont shave too much" can sub par actuators display issues like I'm seeing? Lazy boost response etc?

Full 3" Turbo back. Coilpacks. Cai. Gizzmo boost controller. Sards 850cc sidefeeds. Link ecu. Fmic.

Entire engines been checked as I had a couple issus. Crank angle sensor was stuffed. Then there was an issue with the head. That was taken off and sent away and fixed. Everything else was checked. They had it for 10 weeks. I'm worried about them using an avo actuator.over a garret one.

Sounds like you are getting shafted by AVO due to your lack of knowledge. Some companies will take a easy pay cheque!

I had a thought regarding this - ShiftTys, how does the car actually drive from your perspective? Does it seem that laggy?? If you put it in 4th at say 2500rpm and floor it, what rpm does it reach say 7psi, then 15psi (if its not too dangerous to do that)?

Were you present for any of the dyno runs? Looking at those plots, it makes me wonder if there was a very quick sweep rate used - like 6s or quicker for a run? Thats potentially too quick to give an equal comparison to most dyno plots out there, and potentially too quick to replicate what you might experience in the real world.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...