Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

isnt this the turbos off ebay or something (made in china)?

Ebay yes, China unsure....why does it matter? I bet if Garrett was made in China (I don't know, is it?) you wouldn't say that. If quality control is equal, there's nothing wrong with something being manufactured in China.

Also I suspect that Kinugawa was manufactured in either Japan or Taiwan

Kando stuff seems fine, though polished isn't really good for anything but rice factor - trying to see the relevence there. I'd consider their products one of my top choices for a build if I didn't already have a decent turbo.

The ATP housings aren't Garrett made etc - they are a solution they have offered and aren't their main crust so its not too surprising that there are very workable niggles. Best option for Garrett turbos at the moment, Kando don't turbo twin scroll turbos and these ATP housings definitely perform very very well on the cars I've encountered with them.

Kando stuff seems fine, though polished isn't really good for anything but rice factor - trying to see the relevence there. I'd consider their products one of my top choices for a build if I didn't already have a decent turbo.

The ATP housings aren't Garrett made etc - they are a solution they have offered and aren't their main crust so its not too surprising that there are very workable niggles. Best option for Garrett turbos at the moment, Kando don't turbo twin scroll turbos and these ATP housings definitely perform very very well on the cars I've encountered with them.

thats good to hear Lith, im hoping i have made the right decsion with this setup

Don't bother trying to use studs, pull them out and use cap screws... Got a turbo with the same housing here and it's no problem.

SO i went and got some cap screws today,

all is good we just had to hand file around that one hole.

here is what we did - post-59990-0-60177100-1310701473_thumb.jpg post-59990-0-36091400-1310701501_thumb.jpg

just woundering i got the same thread cap screws as the studs can i just screw the cap screws into the manifold or should i redrill the manifold and use the nuts on the end of cap screws?post-59990-0-01906900-1310701708_thumb.jpg

And yes, they appear to work very very well and reliably for a fraction of the price.

awesome in fact, my new project will most likely have 2 of the 8cm t67 variants hanging off the side.

Percentage of the price would be more indicative of the comparison :P

Ok smarty pants, considering they are roughly 50% of the cost of the average competitors product, the difference could be expressed as 1/2.

Aka a fraction.

Hi can anyone tell me if they have used or know of anyone using the new GTX3794R turbo on a RB engine? And what results.Thanks

The thread started as 'soon to be released' and has documented all known about the gtx range on RB motors. Perhaps read the thread and search the forum, if someone has results they would have posted them.

Hi can anyone tell me if they have used or know of anyone using the new GTX3794R turbo on a RB engine? And what results.Thanks

i know garrett make the GT3794R but cant find any information on any GTX3794R,

i know garrett make the GT3794R but cant find any information on any GTX3794R,

A quick google search shows why, its a 900+hp turbo crammed into a GT35 housing.

http://www.ringer-racing.com/product.sc?productId=177

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2169691

http://www.theboostlab.com/store/productimage.php?product_id=600

A quick google search shows why, its a 900+hp turbo crammed into a GT35 housing.

http://www.ringer-ra...c?productId=177

http://forums.nasioc...d.php?t=2169691

http://www.theboostl...?product_id=600

40psi efficiency... should be sweet for my std rb............ why arent we all running one :P

would like to see it on a decent engine though.

40psi efficiency... should be sweet for my std rb............ why arent we all running one :P

would like to see it on a decent engine though.

Well what is your take on boost pressure into a factory motor? It is an ongoing debate between those who think its irrelevant and those who think x psi will blow the motor.

I think this is fairly relevant as these new turbos all seem to be designed around big pressure ratios, gtx included.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
    • Dang, those BBS are so nice! 
×
×
  • Create New...