Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Currently have our rb34 underway atm. Hopefully have it back next week ready for assembly. Wont be until early next year when its ready to run though.

I must say the quality of the kit is astounding. The crankshaft looks mint.

Z0mGZ1!!!! Post Copious amounts of photos of EVERYTHING! :P

  • Replies 174
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Currently have our rb34 underway atm. Hopefully have it back next week ready for assembly. Wont be until early next year when its ready to run though.

I must say the quality of the kit is astounding. The crankshaft looks mint.

Knew it wouldnt take you long haha

for the Race car?

Yeh its for the race car lol.

Gtst circuit car. Using a new 6boost split pulse manifold with gtx3076r 0.82 divided rear, twin 40mm turbosmart gates, 25 head with solid lifters, gtr inlet manifold/throttle bodies.

So its going to be ultra responsive which is the plan with this new engine. However, if it is too much so and runs out of legs real early then we will throw the 35r back on with a split pulse housing as well and see how it goes then. Either way its going to be interesting!

Yeh its for the race car lol.

Gtst circuit car. Using a new 6boost split pulse manifold with gtx3076r 0.82 divided rear, twin 40mm turbosmart gates, 25 head with solid lifters, gtr inlet manifold/throttle bodies.

So its going to be ultra responsive which is the plan with this new engine. However, if it is too much so and runs out of legs real early then we will throw the 35r back on with a split pulse housing as well and see how it goes then. Either way its going to be interesting!

I was amazed with the torque level my rb30 made - so were many of my passengers...i cant even imagine what an rb34 would feel like!

has anyone here actually experienced an rb34 or even an rb32?

Yeh its for the race car lol.

Gtst circuit car. Using a new 6boost split pulse manifold with gtx3076r 0.82 divided rear, twin 40mm turbosmart gates, 25 head with solid lifters, gtr inlet manifold/throttle bodies.

So its going to be ultra responsive which is the plan with this new engine. However, if it is too much so and runs out of legs real early then we will throw the 35r back on with a split pulse housing as well and see how it goes then. Either way its going to be interesting!

Given Al's results with a GT30 in .82, non-split, it was well and truly maxed out and nosing over in the top end.

With another 400cc it'll be quite interesting to see where the GTX will sit!

GTX3076R with 0.82 divided rear sounds too small for a 3.4L. That would be closer to the equivalent of a 0.63 single rear on a GTX3076R which would be too small for a 3L let alone a 3.4L.

The 1.06 divided rear on the GTX3076R would sure be interesting, would still be ridiculously responsive.

Although I would think the GTX35R with 1.06 divided rear would still be very responsive and make lots of top end on a 3.4L.

Either way super jealous :)

GTX3076R with 0.82 divided rear sounds too small for a 3.4L. That would be closer to the equivalent of a 0.63 single rear on a GTX3076R which would be too small for a 3L let alone a 3.4L.

The 1.06 divided rear on the GTX3076R would sure be interesting, would still be ridiculously responsive.

Although I would think the GTX35R with 1.06 divided rear would still be very responsive and make lots of top end on a 3.4L.

Either way super jealous :)

i cant remember the exact size, however, when i built my rb30 - rips advised a .9 rear if i was to go for a single setup.

i do agree with you Harey...1.06 would be a good fit for the larger 3.4ltr

GTX3076R with 0.82 divided rear sounds too small for a 3.4L. That would be closer to the equivalent of a 0.63 single rear on a GTX3076R which would be too small for a 3L let alone a 3.4L.

The 1.06 divided rear on the GTX3076R would sure be interesting, would still be ridiculously responsive.

Although I would think the GTX35R with 1.06 divided rear would still be very responsive and make lots of top end on a 3.4L.

Either way super jealous :)

Yeh I agree with you there. Unfortunately what happened was the manifold and turbo was originally intended for just a regular rb30.....then as things often do, the plan changed. Using the 3.4L was an afterthought and not initially intended for that setup. But we are going to try it anyway and see what happens and then more then likely throw the gt35r with a .82 divided rear on and see what happens.

Like I was saying its going to be interesting! Its always fun to try new setups.

GTX3076R with 0.82 divided rear sounds too small for a 3.4L. That would be closer to the equivalent of a 0.63 single rear on a GTX3076R which would be too small for a 3L let alone a 3.4L.

The 1.06 divided rear on the GTX3076R would sure be interesting, would still be ridiculously responsive.

Although I would think the GTX35R with 1.06 divided rear would still be very responsive and make lots of top end on a 3.4L.

Either way super jealous :)

only problem is the only divided 1.06 on the market is the ATP housing, which is pretty average.

looking forward to seeing how this goes

I for one am plesently surprised to see someone put together an engine/turbo combination where the turbo isn't running at 50-60% of its capability. While the motor may run out of legs at the redline, really who cares! It will still make 700hp and its mid range power will be simply monsterous. And if you want to go faster you just change gears.

I for one am plesently surprised to see someone put together an engine/turbo combination where the turbo isn't running at 50-60% of its capability. While the motor may run out of legs at the redline, really who cares! It will still make 700hp and its mid range power will be simply monsterous. And if you want to go faster you just change gears.

Some people only see the big fat figure up the top..... not the area under the curve.

Michael, Do you know what the .82 divided housing is off originally?

Not too sure to be honest, I think kyle told me he gets them from the states. Im sure he said its from ATP. I suspect it is this one http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-HSG-080&Category_Code=GTX

But I will find out for sure next week when it all turns up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...