Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was reading the other day in a Mercedes benz Van advertising magazine,

their is this guy in South Aus I think from memory who drives 700km's a day and has done over 1,000,000 km's in it. still going strong.

Couldn't believe it... Courier worker. crazy. discuss

I know taxi's do a shitload but lets leave those suckers out I reckon... trucks would do a fckload too

Edited by macdog
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346559-most-kms-a-car-has-travelled/
Share on other sites

I have a friend with a shorty GQ patrol - TD42 diesel, had ran the clock over, and was onto 10,000kms again.

i.e. 1,010,000 kms :thanks:

Not original engine, the first one died, but the new engine that's been there for 10+ years, did all those kms.

  • Like 1

I have a friend with a shorty GQ patrol - TD42 diesel, had ran the clock over, and was onto 10,000kms again.

i.e. 1,010,000 kms :thanks:

Not original engine, the first one died, but the new engine that's been there for 10+ years, did all those kms.

How do they drive the cars?

Do they trash them or are they ok? It's amazing what some cars can put up with.

Our builder has got an old Toyota Hilux, has had it for 10 years and hasn't changed the oil once!!!

Have an XF Falcon that I got from my brother. AFAIK, it's still original engine, has a bit over 447k on it. Probably lasted this long because my brother lived in quite remote places, but worked in Sydney (Qantas international pilot, so only drives to work once a week! every couple of weeks - 400k up the Hume).

Tow truck at work has 980,000km+ on it now, still drives well but has had a fortune spent on it over the years. Also seen a >TR MAGNA< ohmy.gif that comes into work for it's servicing/repairs etc with 600,000+ km on it now, old guy (70's) owns it and anything it needs, it gets. See quite a few falcondores in the 300-400k km bracket....

i know of a few people who have had cars with the clock on their second time around the clock.

i had a commodore that was an ex company car. was 12 months old (almost to the day) when i got it and had 80,000kms on it. my sister in law used to drive from gympie to noosa and back everyday for work (about a 130km round trip). she used to have a liberty but as the kms started racking up she started having problems with it so got a vx commodore. it has been pretty much hassle free other than a problem with the fuel pump.

if i had to choose between an import with 400,000kms on it or a commodore/falcon with the same, i'd probably take the aussie car.

my mazda had 470, on it, still going fine but was getting tired so i traded it before it died, few days later i get a letter from the EPA saying it was witnessed blowing smoke, good timing ey, could of fixed it with a new set of slugs,but the suspension was rooted and it didnt really feel very safe anymore...

theres a bunch of guys at my work up in the 6-700s and ive seen more than a few taxis over 800...but the one that took the cake for me was this bloke i was talking to oneday had an 80s model mack truck.

he had lost count of how many times its been around the clock, reckons it was at least 4 or 5..original engine..amazing..

i know of a few people who have had cars with the clock on their second time around the clock.

i had a commodore that was an ex company car. was 12 months old (almost to the day) when i got it and had 80,000kms on it. my sister in law used to drive from gympie to noosa and back everyday for work (about a 130km round trip). she used to have a liberty but as the kms started racking up she started having problems with it so got a vx commodore. it has been pretty much hassle free other than a problem with the fuel pump.

if i had to choose between an import with 400,000kms on it or a commodore/falcon with the same, i'd probably take the aussie car.

My first car i owned was a 2000 Model Subaru liberty RX 2.5, had 250,000 km's went like a dream... only thing i had to change was the brakes and that was it.

Great car, car had done mainly country KM's, maybe that had something to do with it.

2 patrols I had come to mind. one was the rb 30 powered carburetor variant. It did 400,000 kay in my posession and was still running around town some 5 years later being driven by a family of coconuts.

The other was the 2.8 litre turbo diesel variant that every body claimed was a pos. I traded it at 740,000 kays of hard abuse. That thing took everything I could throw at it and then some.

sum total of maintainence other than regular servicing was a clutch and worn brake pads.

i know this is not km's but we have straddles at work (big cranes on stilts ) that have done over 400,000 hours on the origonal merc diesl motor !

come on man, start a crane thread? hahahaha.. thats a fair few hours though

My first car i owned was a 2000 Model Subaru liberty RX 2.5, had 250,000 km's went like a dream... only thing i had to change was the brakes and that was it.

Great car, car had done mainly country KM's, maybe that had something to do with it.

i think most of the problems she was having with it was with the centre diff. apparently a lot of highway driving causes the diff to have issues. and at the price they are to replace, the mechanics were telling her to get rid of the car rather than fix it.

i think most of the problems she was having with it was with the centre diff. apparently a lot of highway driving causes the diff to have issues. and at the price they are to replace, the mechanics were telling her to get rid of the car rather than fix it.

maybe mine was different, i know the engine mounts were on there way out though... dealer bought it off me for a ridiculously low price..

My old R31 Silo had almost 400K on it when i sold it. That thing had a very hard life. I looked after it with oil andfilter changes every 5000kms, but it got an absolute flogging.

The weird thing is the old RB30 just seemed to get stronger and stronger.

Those things are scary bullet proof with regular oil changes etc.

My last Datto (180b) was on it's 5th trip around the odo, so in the high 400's.

But better than that, my mum had an '88 Pintara station wagon which had over 700,000ks on it when it got traded and all it had replaced in that time was the diff. The engine and box were still fine and that despite my best attempts to kill it. I learned to drive in that car and used to drive it when I was on my Ps. So it didn't have the easiest life.

My last Datto (180b) was on it's 5th trip around the odo, so in the high 400's.

But better than that, my mum had an '88 Pintara station wagon which had over 700,000ks on it when it got traded and all it had replaced in that time was the diff. The engine and box were still fine and that despite my best attempts to kill it. I learned to drive in that car and used to drive it when I was on my Ps. So it didn't have the easiest life.

its funny how long cars last, you get some good ones and some bad ones i guess.

I haven't had cars that have done way-out figures like the ones above...

but I must admit that I've been so concerned about several cars getting close to 200,000km, so I'd sell them.

That mentality I guess, is a carry-over from my parents saying pearls of wisdom like...

"There comes a time when repairs can cost more than maintenance" (with me thinking of buying their own Fiat 2300)

"Don't buy other people's problems" (whilst looking at a Monaro)

"If you can afford to run it, you can afford to buy it" (when I considered a Jag XJ-S)

"You'll kill yourself" (when I had my heart set on a used MG-B as my first car > got a new Datto 1600 instead)

:thanks: Mum and Dad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...