Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys I've done a bit of searching around and haven't really been able to find anything that relates directly to my situation.

My R32 GTS-T puts out about 230 kW on 16 psi and is running the following mods (just nudging stage 3)

Full RB20DET rebuild with upgraded rods and bearings

FMIC

Full turbo back exhaust with performance cat

Greddy Dump Pipe

z32 AFM

Cold air intake

Splitfire coilpacks

550cc injectors

Nistune Chip (on stock ecu)

Upgraded HKS turbo (not sure of model)

Nismo fuel pump

Exedy Super HD Clutch

Question is...WOULD I BENEFIT FROM A SET OF CAM GEARS (AND TUNE)?

I'm very happy with my car at the moment and wouldn't want to lose something to gain something else. Only really interested if it will all be positive after install.

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346671-cam-gears-is-it-worth-it/
Share on other sites

Cam Gears are relatively cheap these days, so it would be worth getting them and testing on a dyno in different positions,

we have made some response gains with poncams on a GTR,

are you running stock cams?

So having cam gears would also increase boost response ?

Yeh mate, I can't remember the one I have but it made a decent difference, 500-800rpm earlier with boost....

Also, I only have the exhaust side done, I think its only the exhaust cam gear that makes a difference for boost response.

are you sure you are seeing the gains ONLY from cam gear fitting to RB25?

we know cam gears gain power and response on RB26, but from memory on RB25 it is pointless and factory is best setup

Im confused , becuase i really want to get some, I spoke to Trent ( my tuner i trust ) he said to me its pointless.. for my setup.. and my setup is simular to plan-b's mods.

You don't want some , only one. Inlet is best to leave vct to do its job - people have tried to no avail. On exhaust side typically on an RB25DET with stock cams 4deg retarded will improve midrange with poss some small cost at top end.(from personal experience with my rb25det with GCG highflow).
  • 1 month later...

Im confused , becuase i really want to get some, I spoke to Trent ( my tuner i trust ) he said to me its pointless.. for my setup.. and my setup is simular to plan-b's mods.

Looks as if a aftermarket exhaust cam gear would be a good move. Intake is probably a waste as people have said.

It's only a waste on a RB25DET due to the VCT, which advances the intake cam 10 degrees pre 4700 rpm or close to MBT.

I can see it being beneficial on a RB20DET which as no VCT. If you have some dyno time try getting the exhaust cam gear dial it back a few degrees and/or get an intake and advance it 1~2 degrees and overlap the power curve.

To all the people saying yes they are worth it, do you have 2 dyno sheets where the only difference is the exhaust cam gear with a tune after each?

I have spoken to a few tuners (Trent being one of them) and they all say dont bother on the RB25. On the RB26 its a different story.

Tuners are the only ones that would have seen many cars where the only mod they do is cam gears. Most other people would combine them with other mods and then say wow the cam gears worked well when in fact its not the case.

To all the people saying yes they are worth it, do you have 2 dyno sheets where the only difference is the exhaust cam gear with a tune after each?

I have spoken to a few tuners (Trent being one of them) and they all say dont bother on the RB25. On the RB26 its a different story.

Tuners are the only ones that would have seen many cars where the only mod they do is cam gears. Most other people would combine them with other mods and then say wow the cam gears worked well when in fact its not the case.

We're talking RB20DET here mate.

I've disregarded info specific to the RB25s as, like you have said, aren't reknown to yielding gains from cam gears.

I've come to the conclusion that it would be one or the other (cams or cam gears) on the RB20DET. I will be doing cams as people agree that Pon Cams come perfected, no need for cam gear adjustments/aftermarket gears...

We're talking RB20DET here mate.

I've disregarded info specific to the RB25s as, like you have said, aren't reknown to yielding gains from cam gears.

I've come to the conclusion that it would be one or the other (cams or cam gears) on the RB20DET. I will be doing cams as people agree that Pon Cams come perfected, no need for cam gear adjustments/aftermarket gears...

I cant find any posts here that arent specific to the RB25? Not sure where your reading.

Apologies I did miss the RB20DET at the top, I just saw that all the responses were to do with the RB25.

I have also heard tuners say, its only worth it on RB26's, not sure if they are including RB20s as well?

Haha not sure where your reading either bud.

From what I've been told today, I'd say Poncams for a decently modified RB20DET will be most beneficial, both in low down torque and boost response.

Edited by plan-b

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...