Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have a chipped exhaust turbine with scoring to housing. Found when pulled off the dump.

Anyone got a second hand OEM turbo for sale? Price?

Car is in Sydney at the moment so other option is hiflow / kit out? Can anyone let me know where in Sydney I could get this done and what they paid please?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347043-turbo-for-m35/
Share on other sites

Have a chipped exhaust turbine with scoring to housing. Found when pulled off the dump.

Anyone got a second hand OEM turbo for sale? Price?

Car is in Sydney at the moment so other option is hiflow / kit out? Can anyone let me know where in Sydney I could get this done and what they paid please?

No spare turbo but.. I went with Precision Turbo (John 9756 5757) to rebuild my turbo.

I had it rebuilt as what is called a Sierra Stage 1.

this basically means Journal bearing, metal impella and slightly bigger inlet and exhaust.

Net result, a little more lag (boost is starting around 2700 and on full boost are 3000), but comes on strong above 3000rpm. Makes the car a little more comfortable to drive in traffic and when you want the power it is there above 3000rpm.

I gained around 15% more power just from the turbo change (comparative Power Score from my Informeter). :banana:

The other important thing to note is that with this turbo at redline I am at 98% duty cycle on the injectors.

So if you go for a bigger turbo bare in mind you will need to look at bigger injectors or risk running the car too lean.

Cheer

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347043-turbo-for-m35/#findComment-5585316
Share on other sites

98% duty cycle with no mods other than high flow turbo still running factory boost?? that doesnt sound right!

How many CCs are the factory units?

I never said no other mods.... :whistling:

Mods are:

HDI FMIC

3 inch dump pipe

3 inch exhaust

Runner spacer

3 inch inlet pipe

Impul ECU

+ turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347043-turbo-for-m35/#findComment-5586101
Share on other sites

There are endless wheel options, it would depend on your power goals, and how happy you will be with the lag. The stock turbo is good for around 200awkw with steel wheels, highflow can make over 250awkw, (300 on ethanol) anything above that you should be looking at one of the new garrett GTX turbos and building a custom manifold. Big bux.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347043-turbo-for-m35/#findComment-5587641
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...