Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This was after a rough tune - Ben is going to try and flatten our the bump when the VVT comes in - also there another 1300 RPM or so at the top end that need looking at. Like I said, initial tune - Should have another graph next week.

This was at 21 PSI - We should be able to extract another couple of PSI out of her next week too ! :P

dyno1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34717-initial-results-tune-hks-3040/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Redline - Yeah we are going to muck around with the ECU to try and tune that dip out. Apparently the ECU can do something with the VVT to make it better (that's B-Man technical speak there)

Roy - you know ;)

Steve - yep she hits hard. It's interesting actually - 0-3500 = drving around normally. > 3500 is where it all starts to happen

RBVS - You got it mate - in a nutshell ! 8.5 or 8.6 to 1 - (HKS 1.6 mm head gasket)

Cameron - I took it down the quater last saturday and got two 15 sec runs and fu(ked clutch. :( ha ha New clutch going in now so I might be able to do better than that :D

Just looking at the dyno graph with boost plotted against revs and power:

Boost starts at 3000

3500 = 5 PSI and 80 rwkw

4000 = 8 PSI and 112 rwkw

4500 = 20 PSI and 200rwkw

5000 = 23 PSI and 260 rwkw

5500 = 22.5 PSI and 270 rwkw

6000 = 22 PSI and 310 rwkw

6500 = 21 PSI and 323 rwkw

Thinking about it and comparing against the old Turbo which made 200 rwkw at 9 PSI and 255 rwkw at 15 PSI ( from memory) this one is a laggy hoe. (of course this was a completely different RPM)

It prolly has everything to do with the 1.12 AR exhaust housing ...

However - if we can tune it a bit more and maintain the 300 odd rwkw between 5500 and 8000 rpm - the top end will be the place to drive it.

Means I get the best of both worlds. The quiet NA car between 0-3500 for puttering around town - And the weapon 3500-8000 RPM for the track, drags, off street stuff.

I might look into dropping down an AR or two for a bit of a play as Everything else is the same - just the turbo swap . So I know the zorst, cat, etc is good for better response.

1.12 exhaust housing!!! No wonder it's so laggy!

I was using a 0.87 exhaust housing, and there's also a 1.01 housing, so you're two sizes up from what I was using! :)

3500 = 5 PSI and 80 rwkw

4000 = 8 PSI and 112 rwkw

4500 = 20 PSI and 200rwkw

You have a 90rwkw increase in 500rpm between 3500 and 4000rpm!!! That's gotta make for some traction issues!!!! eek3.gif

I'd love to see what she'll make with more boost (1.6bar isn't enough with that monster exhaust housing) and a proper tune... You're not even revving the thing out yet!!!! Sounds like you have a monster on your hands Brendan! I told you HKS turbos are the goods :)

Are you using the e-boost, B-Man? I thought they were supposed to be the most, 'un-spiking-est' of ebc's? (A-Man technical speak there :))

Peaks to 23psi then trails to 21psi 1500rpm later? Weren't Turbosmart claiming almost 0 spiking with this device @ SEMA?

If you're not using the e-boost then i am way off... but i thought you were...

Adrian

Yes, using e-boost, and yes I don't understand the boost drop off either...... Maybe more wastegate related ?? Dunno...... That's something I will be looking in to ! Also prolly cause it comes on so damn hard - There may be a way with the e-boost to slow down the wastegate hence stabablize the boost.

Cheers,

Merli - What are they efficient to ??? 1.8 bar ???

1.8-1.9 bar I would imagine... Keep turning up the boost until you don't make anymore power with more boost :) You have the engine to support it, so don't be scared to wind it up! :)

Hi Sydneykid - I was wondering that myself - as you can see by my biro markings on the graph - I wanna also know what happens between 6500 and 8000 RPM :)

I've asked them to run it further after final tune.

Knore - I wanted better than 250 rwkw - But I didn't want to stick a T88 on it. - So yeah - It's maybe a little overkill for the track and a bit underkill for drags - A happy medium -

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...