Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I did use the search function but all I found is built thread with people saying they have a DLI installed lol..

I bought a HKS DLI with the idea to buy a brand new set of coilpack to replace my 20yr old oem coilpacks. I know OEM coilpacks can be good up to 800whp. ( If I break the 500whp I will call it a day lol). I also know that brand new coilpacks can give you an extra 3-6whp.

1) Can coilpacks, after times ( in my case 20 yr old lol), becomes less efficient? Would a HKS twin power boost the spark and make them act like brand new coils?

2) Can I really see a gain if I get brand new OEM coils + the HKS DLI ? Or I'm better with only a new set?

If both situation get the same result, I rather buy a set of coilpack then keep old coilpacks and add an extra metal box in my motor.

Is it wise to change the coilpack loom while I'm there too?

Edited by cobrAA

I did use the search function but all I found is built thread with people saying they have a DLI installed lol..

I bought a HKS DLI with the idea to buy a brand new set of coilpack to replace my 20yr old oem coilpacks. I know OEM coilpacks can be good up to 800whp. ( If I break the 500whp I will call it a day lol). I also know that brand new coilpacks can give you an extra 3-6whp.

1) Can coilpacks, after times ( in my case 20 yr old lol), becomes less efficient? Would a HKS twin power boost the spark and make them act like brand new coils?

2) Can I really see a gain if I get brand new OEM coils + the HKS DLI ? Or I'm better with only a new set?

If both situation get the same result, I rather buy a set of coilpack then keep old coilpacks and add an extra metal box in my motor.

Is it wise to change the coilpack loom while I'm there too?

Personally, I'd buy a new set of OEM coils and install the HKS DLI if I have any spark issues (ensure your gaps and heat range are correct) but 500whp is pretty stable for new OEM coils. If you have it though, you could always install it I guess.

As for your ignition harness, if it's crispy or you have some connectors that are starting to break, I have one with less than 1,000km on it, bought last year. Shipping from someone close ;)

I had my stock coil packs start to break down over 20psi (370ish rwkw)....while using the Twin spark. Went and bought a new set of stock coils and all good.

Personally in your case I would buy a new set of coils.... and if you still have issues then chuck a twin spark at it.

I had my stock coil packs start to break down over 20psi (370ish rwkw)....while using the Twin spark. Went and bought a new set of stock coils and all good.

Personally in your case I would buy a new set of coils.... and if you still have issues then chuck a twin spark at it.

This exactly.

You've purchased stuff backwards.

Replace the coils first, if issues persist then use the DLI

instead of paying well over $1k for an OEM coil pack, get a set of spitfires.

I run Spitfire coils and a HKS TwinSpark. No spark issues. @ 620hp atw.

we tested brand new oem vs splitfires and found we could run more boost with the oem ones.. even SR20 ones.

New oem ones are now cheaper than splitfires....

ATM the coil packs average $55usd each brand new...

  • Like 1

instead of paying well over $1k for an OEM coil pack, get a set of spitfires.

I run Spitfire coils and a HKS TwinSpark. No spark issues. @ 620hp atw.

that,s the thing.. At my local dealer, they sell 6 coilpacks for 300$ tax included LOLLLLL 2x cheaper than spitfire or 150$ less than yellowjacket.

and my friend needed money quick and sold me his twin power for least than half the MSRP. I couldn't say no. Worst case, I will simply sell it back.

Edited by cobrAA

we tested brand new oem vs splitfires and found we could run more boost with the oem ones.. even SR20 ones.

New oem ones are now cheaper than splitfires....

ATM the coil packs average $55usd each brand new...

Very good point... OEM are great but when they are 10-20 years old they need replacing!

I was unaware you could get them that cheap now days, last time I looked they were about $200 each :(

we tested brand new oem vs splitfires and found we could run more boost with the oem ones.. even SR20 ones.

New oem ones are now cheaper than splitfires....

ATM the coil packs average $55usd each brand new...

lol when did that happen? i remember buying my splitfires cause they were cheaper than new OEM's (and JDM tyte y0)

locally you can't get them that cheap, Nissan Aus i don't believe have altered pricing.

For some odd reason, Nissan US have some items much cheaper in some instances.

Yeah all my parts now come from the US, generally 5 day from order to door.

Sux i know not to support local business but if its half price in another country including freight then im sorry... your not competitive.

Just get onto a supplier, some stuff is cheaper - some stuff just isn't.

NFI what governs pricing, but its likely as a GTR was sold here (32) they are putting it up.

They weren't locally delivered there so perhaps not so much profiteering going on.

I mean just for a CAS, there is a $400 "Nissan" markup over what Mitsu charge them for it

I upgraded to LS2 Truck Coil Packs. No more ignition problems and they outperform the others.

just makes for an untidy engine bay and introduces plug leads into the equation which is another point of failure. Put new oem coilpacks in and ignore them for another 10 years :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...