Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VQ

??? :blink:

Yeah 25 was a nice solid reliable option as long as I can resist the urge to get Matt (super awesome tuner) to tune the power over 300kw. I think the setup will be capable but reliability is the key.

??? :blink:

Yeah 25 was a nice solid reliable option as long as I can resist the urge to get Matt (super awesome tuner) to tune the power over 300kw. I think the setup will be capable but reliability is the key.

yep VQ

if you read the first part of that link above it shows the power and weight advantages of the VQ over an rb26. its also 3 cylenders shorter. its light and short. its nothing new really as they have been putting VQs in r32 in WA for years with some hectic as results.

but like i said im sure they would cost more than 3 times what a 25 would to drop in.

Pulse racing is going for Pro Class Gold this year in the Evo8.

They took out Open Class last year with a 1:36 lap.

More details here:

http://www.worldtimeattack.com/index.php/pulse-returns-in-2011-with-pro-class-entry/

cool. the car certainly looks serious. I am surprised I haven't heard of more sydney nissan customers going to Pulse. They certainly look pretty switched on and have some runs on the board now.

Me:

R32 GTSt.

Open Class

Time: Sub 1:45. Hopefully a 44??

Last year I did a 1:47.32 so I'm hoping my new setup with 50kw's more will get me at least 2-3 seconds.

Looks like this at the moment.post-10715-0-35622800-1296139582_thumb.jpg

Really need to get the build thread up and going...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am probably calling this too early but I think I found what part of my problem is. I have a couple of dents that are fairly close to each other and I tried to fix them individually. Recently I put one larger coat across all the dents and sanded it and for the first time ever it's all even except for the edge where the bare metal is, I just need to put some putty there. I'm ordering some better longer blocks that are more flexible. Other good news is that the other repairs on my panel are flat even with the guidecoat. It's these 2 dents which are an absolute c*nt l lol.
    • Murray will have better input, but I'd be going with less filler, and aimed at the low spots mainly, and hence won't need as much sanding, which then means get the guide coat on earlier. That's how I'd do it, BUT, I'm not a pro, I'm a DIY hack who will then get the shits halfway through, and have one spot awesomely repaired, and the other spots look like a 3 year old was left unsupervised with workshop tools...
    • Where is the most common place to locate it? Disappointing that Garrett won’t make a fitting for it since they know everyone will use it
    • A HICAS fault really should not cause the engine to go into limp mode. These cars are so old that the systems barely talk to one another. The thump might be the lockoff solenoid valve for the HICAS (the safety valve) getting closed, to lock the rear wheels "straight". I say "straight", because when my HICAS used to shit itself before I took off and nuked it from orbit, it would lock up with the rear wheels wildy non-straight and you'd need 45° of steering wheel to drive straight. Take off and nuke it from orbit. First step is to pull the smaller of the two plugs out of the HICAS CU. See if it stops misbehaving. You can also (whilst leaving it plugged in) try to get the HICAS CU into diagnostic mode by doing the pedal dance, or by connecting a CONSULT capable diagnostic reader into the car and seeing what it has to say for itself. Can't do either of these with it unplugged though. 1st gen HICAS is a ballache. I would do a complete delete. I did do a complete delete.
×
×
  • Create New...