Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

biggest semis other than the bridgestones are 295/30-18 (hankook vetnis Z221 and A050's), that diameter is about 80mm less than the standard wheel size on my car.

I wish there were some bigger smei slick options so we could match it with the EVO's

Kumho list 305/30ZR18 & 335/30ZR18 V70A semi slicks. Kumhos normally come in soft medium or hard compound too. Hornibrook motorsport is the QLD distributor

gotta say I had overlooked the kumho. how do they perform?

would a suboptimal sized A050 perform better than a better sized Khumo?

might need to experiment more. so many tyres so little time.

They're a good tyre, not great imo.

They're a few years behind the tech of Dunlop and Yoki.

Having said that, I have only used them in smaller sizes of 235 and 265.

We were fortunate to back to back the V70A's against the Dunlop O3G's at Mt Buller once, the Dunlops were nearly exactly a second a klm faster.

In the rain though, I think the Kuhmo is wonderful, I just think they struggle a little on heavy cars.

As I allude to though, they could have completely different behaviour in the enormous sizes.

Same as the Toyo's.

I still find it hard to believe 4 years on from the R35 being on the market that there are still no 19 or 20" R comps made (espec given porka's, lambo's, fez etc all run bigger wheels too).

yeah agree with the other guys about the cum-ho's being the same as toyo in that they work really well on lighter cars without the massive power but on the big brutes like GTRs with 1400+kg and 400kw+ they suffer. they might be great on the lotus but those things weigh bugger all like 800kg or so from memory? and have maybe 300kw?

the only real way to find out is try a set and see. it's an expensive lesson but given the effort in your build probably one worth learning for yourself.

I remember driving the 35 on track at OP and being shocked how much slower it was on R888s compared to the factory tyres (either the dunlops or bridgestonss). it was much more oversteery, and much slower over all and had much more roll courtesy of the sidewalls not coping with the weight.

Same as the Toyo's.

I still find it hard to believe 4 years on from the R35 being on the market that there are still no 19 or 20" R comps made (espec given porka's, lambo's, fez etc all run bigger wheels too).

yeah it would be nice to have readily available 03Gs or RE55s or A050s in 20 inch sizes for R35s and lambos etc. plenty of guys getting serious with these cars that are being knobled by tyre availability.

Tire rack doesn't list A050's?! Only A048's :(

Edit - Or O3G's......

Anyone shed any light on that?

Edit - I've emailed them a request for info on those.

I rang them and couldnt get any sense out of them regards the o3g's Ben. I hope you have more luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...