Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you look through roys build up the has the turbos side by side I'm sure the greedy version but they are very similar to the kandos you can see the size difference in the turbine wheel

Edited by Bsa

I will be getting one of but can't until I get back from Thailand in janurary as money is tight. That's why I'm researching on them as I want to get the right one the first time. Just curious at how similar the to turbos will be seen the pics side by side just wondering what would be like on power curve etc

Any body done back to back testing between the SL2 and the td06h-20g

Two near identical setups on same dyno and same tuner and no difference. the L2 was a tad worse...a tad. My car was a little more responsive and made something like 1.5rwkws more...so variable is exhaust, engine health etc. Jack difference in the turbo...and both cars were recently lapping bumper to bumper at Winton so both about the same

Kris is now running my old spare L2, making good numbers. But i didnt see anything in results that made me want to swap my H for the L2

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/58229-top-rb20-club-do-you-have-over-260rwkw/page__st__1780

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbo-Turbine-Housing-TD06SL2-T67-T3-8cm-Internal-Gate-Mitsubishi-/290621301428?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43aa6122b4

just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

So after an adjusment its half way there, cheers again to scottynm35 who pretty much cut it, welded it and filed it smooth in the time it took me to smoke a cigarette..:thumbsup:

DSC03214.jpg

I reckon I may even be able to get my stock heatsheild to cover the dumps for some extra stealthishness.. :ph34r:

DSC03208.jpg

also just incase anyone is interested in what comes in your Kinguwana kit, here it is,

minus the almost metre long oil line which is in my car already.

The oil drain is very small compared to stock, not exactly sure what I will do about that.. Also I was surprised there was no blank plugs in the oil and water holes on the turbo cartridge..maybe this is normal I dunno..

DSC03221.jpg

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

LMAO @ TIAL stealthiness, man you crack me up. I wish we lived nearby -_-

and you can get a TFI brass fitting to put a 5/8 bung on the block from autobahn, its a 3/4 from stock i think!

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

Ye, has a 1/8" NPT fitting for an oil pressure gauge if you want to fir one there

So after an adjusment its half way there, cheers again to scottynm35 who pretty much cut it, welded it and filed it smooth in the time it took me to smoke a cigarette..:thumbsup:

DSC03214.jpg

I reckon I may even be able to get my stock heatsheild to cover the dumps for some extra stealthishness.. :ph34r:

DSC03208.jpg

also just incase anyone is interested in what comes in your Kinguwana kit, here it is,

minus the almost metre long oil line which is in my car already.

The oil drain is very small compared to stock, not exactly sure what I will do about that.. Also I was surprised there was no blank plugs in the oil and water holes on the turbo cartridge..maybe this is normal I dunno..

DSC03221.jpg

does anyone know what the little T-piece sitting near the copper washes is for..I assume its for a gauge sensor, but not sure how or where it would fit in with the kit :unsure:

Question for you, does that lip on the mounting face of the V-band flange fit into the rear housing and allow you to clamp it?

Basically I had the same flange but the rear housing was not machined to accept the lip so I had to get him to send a flat one out. A few other guys have PM'd me saying they had the same problem and had to get a replacement sent out too.

get the td06sl2 20g, it will spool faster and it can flow more than enough

also see this housing for their 8cm T3 internal gate.

http://www.ebay.com....=item43aa6122b4

just need to have the rear lopped off and drilled out

mines for a rb25 so im going to go the 10cm housing and external gate as the 8cm will choke

and artz ive also noticed your using a 10mm spacer between the turbo and manifold did you need this or did you do it just to be sure as i thought i read on here you didnt need it

Edited by luvpsi

yeah my housing is machined, fits like a glove.. guess i got lucky...

DSC03226.jpg

Cheers for the headsup though that could of made life hard had it not fit :cheers:

Thanks for that pic man, I'd definitely prefer to have that seal but mine seems to be sealing fine so far without it...

Scottynm35 did a great job on that housing-gate pipe!

It came up good, I wonder if you could get some sort of heatproof cover like a turbo beanie to cover the wastegate? I guess you will have a screamer plumbed over the heatsheild soon so it wont really matter, when the cops lift the bonnet you will be screwed. lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...