Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

T67-25G uses the same L2 turbine wheel as the TD06L2-20G

TD06H-25G uses a 67/58.8mm 11 blade turbine wheel

the TD06H-25 is very similar to a Garrett GT3576 in size with only a couple of mm in it.

compare that to the 61/54.1mm turbine wheel of the L2/T67

now there are a bucket load of variations of the MHI turbos such as what MHI call the Super 20G or the TE06, all very similar, but different enough to cause headaches when buying from the likes of kando, the the shaft sizes and wheel trims vary

eg Kando sell a T67-24V a TE06H-25G etc, even sell the Large 67mm turbine wheel equipped turbo fitted with a 20G compressor.

So be wary, and ask before handing over your cash.

check my TD06 thread for more info re: wheel sizing etc

Ok I understand now the t67 has the l2 turbine but a 25g compressor correct

Yes.

Greddy called it a T67, as effectively it is a TD07S and a TD06L2 joined together using the 4" inlet TD07S comp cover with the L2 turbine housing and centre section...kinda like a Garrett T3/T4

25G/20G/24V/18G etc is the compressor wheel

Fark it...i am selling all my mitsu fluff and going KKK K27s etc. Info on them is even more confusing :whistling:

Do you want mine?

cbf going to get it, but iirc it is a 7200 11:11 with a #6 rear housing with a porsche flange pattern

LOL

ok so can someone confirm this if this is the correct TD06SL2-20G that i've bought *which is same as jez & artz*?

i hope its not the wrong one Lol

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280776600350?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

ok so can someone confirm this if this is the correct TD06SL2-20G that i've bought *which is same as jez & artz*?

i hope its not the wrong one Lol

http://www.ebay.com....984.m1423.l2649

LOL its the right one man, good work.

Johnny B - go with tried and true man. In theory the water cooled one should work just as well but run cooler, but it comes with a smaller compressor cover and thus could be a lucky dip in terms of results. The T67 is a known performer, no guess work!

Stock manifold yes, don't understand why people r using the aftermaket manifolds for the TD06 turbos unless its for a T67 which fouls the engine cos its too big. What gate r u using dori, Tial?? Are you plumbing it off the turbo housing? Keep us posted....:thumbsup:

modded the stock manifold to suit 44mm v-band ext gate, running either a tial mvr or turbosmart hyper gate

tbh, i think after all the costs add up, it will be about the same price if not cheaper than a HG unit fitted.

turbo with lines (can sell for $$ if not needed) $740

gate $300

modded manifold $220

dump + screamer $150

intake $150

= $1560~ (say $1650 for gaskets/bolts/nuts/studs etc)

HG turbo on its own is $1500 + delivery + custom intake + either use OEM lines (needs massaging to fit) or need braided stuff ($$), fk around with the dump/front pipe issue melting the aircon hose.

Ur right, thats what I figured out - Putting together THIS stuff is about the same or cheaper than the HG ss stuff, the HG turbo on its own is $1500 + GST = $1650 = ouch, I just burnt a large hole in my pocket for a turbo only...

Whereas with this one, if ur not happy with the turbo, u can always get another spec turbo or parts (diff wheels / housing etc, as kando sell a wide range of this stuff for cheap) for approx $700 and ur sailing ...!

What do u guys think??

And where did u get the 44mm Tial for $300 - the cheapest on eGay is $365 + delivery = approx $400

People car do things for all different costs, some cheaper some end up paying more.

I dare say since these setups work so well you would be best to spend the few extra dollars and making the setup 100%. Using some high temp sheathing on lines, good quality bends and reducers/flanges studs etc so you dont blow out gaskets etc or warp with temp.

A gate for $300? I paid about $500 for my Turbosmart. I paid more then $150 in just flanges, studs, gaskets and elbows + reducer. So not saying anyone was wrong but we all often pay different prices for things and I know i couldnt do my setup with external gate that cheaply

med_gallery_462_50_238480.jpg

Tial MVR is the go Dori, proven performer. Also not sure where to get it under $400 or I would LOL

Ron your comments are all well and good, but please make sure you have a firm understanding of the setup you are describing and how it works before you attempt to undertake such a move.

Make sure you have your labour aspect of things well sorted and know the implications of a screamer (if you opt to go that way) or how standout your setup will be to NSW highway patrol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...