Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rear housing sizes, will spool up quicker but run out of puff up top.

Not having a shot. But if you dont KNOW for certain then please phrase a post so its a question.

16G, 18G, 20G are NOT rear housing sizes. They are the compressor the turbo runs. The rear housing sizes are designated in Mistu talk at 6cm, 8cm , 10cm, 12cm 16cm etc etc.

The take away is that the smaller the compressor wheel the less inertia so you are a good chance that it will spin quicker given the two turbos have the same turbine and housings. But then there is the weight, number of blades that all play a part.

Now I THINK ( :) ) the 16G would be noticable to an 18G and 20G in spool. People seem to refer to a 16G and a BIG 16G, with the Big 16G being what Trust call the 18G. (? if someone can confirm this great :) ) There is not a lot of dimensional differences between the 18G and 20G and are basically just a different trim.

I think the fact that the 18G is normally teamed with the smaller TD05H turbine and 8cm housing is the reason why it would generally be seen as the faster spooling turbo, albeit making less power as the compromise.

Wheel Sizes (Inducer/Exducer)

16G - 46.5mm / 57mm

18G - 50.5mm / 68mm

20G - 52.6mm / 68mm

So in an overly simplistic view the 16G would physically be a lot smaller and spin easier. The 18G and 20G are basically just a trim difference

16G

After reading both threads the Kandos SEEM to produce more brutal neck snapping acceleration factor on the street, less issues getting there and seem to love boost and have lot more potential in them, maybe this also has to do with the setups being external gated.. AND theyre half the price of HG turbos (kinda adds up to same with ext gate, custom dump, plumbing etc), but then later down the track u canalways swap a newer better kando turbo cos its cheap!

f**k knows how your comparing them, you must have some skills, theres not even a decent 98 octane dyno sheet in this thread, its all E85 results....

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

whats the difference in the 16G 18G and 20G with these kando's. would a 16G spool faster than a 20

Those are the compressor wheel sizes. The 16g is normally also available in a big and small trim too, small trim is uncommon from kando so dont worry about it.

The big 16g shares the same outer diameter as the 18g and the 20g (68mm), you can consider them the same wheel in different trims (although they are not quite..).

The 16g will be the best spooling item and is what is used on evo's 3 - 9 (normally capable of up to 240ish all wheel kw). This is a TD05H 16g6 (big 16g)

The 18g and 20g go up in power capability from there, the truth is being a similar wheel they are probably close to as capable as eachother yet working at different boost levels. The 20g will come on a little later and a little harder but will make the highest power on the least boost.

For a fast spool application the TD05H 18g with a healthy rear housing (10cm) would be good on a 6 cylinder and should make an easy-ish 240kw

There are youtube vids of TD06 18g on 1JZ motors available, do some searching. The results are surprising, rather quick and come on very early and smooth. I would rate this to 260kw.

f**k knows how your comparing them, you must have some skills, theres not even a decent 98 octane dyno sheet in this thread, its all E85 results....

cheers

darren

He's a wishful thinker, thats how.

Edit...

Wheel Sizes (Inducer/Exducer : lb/min)

16G - 46.5mm / 57mm : 34 ~ 340hp (The big 16G off the EVO III is rated as 39lb/min)

18G - 50.5mm / 68mm : 42 ~ 420hp

20G - 52.6mm / 68mm : 44 ~ 440hp

So in an overly simplistic view the 16G would physically be a lot smaller and spin easier. The 18G and 20G are basically just a trim difference

16G

Here is a pic of the following wheels side by side: VF40, EVO 16G (Big 16G), 18G, and then the 20G!

vf40161820pic1.JPG

f**k knows how your comparing them, you must have some skills, theres not even a decent 98 octane dyno sheet in this thread, its all E85 results....

cheers

darren

Ur pretty clever arent you, the dynos the only way to compare them right, smart-ass? If you were just a bit more smart then you would see in my first sentence that i mentioned 'after reading both threads..'- hence how I compared them, whether right or wrong, thats for anyone to decide and debate as thats what forums are about..seeing as dynos dont really define what it FEELS like to drive.

wait for ARTZ too, his setup is the benchmark in my eyes and i cant wait to see his results.

stock manifold, gate off the housing, good size gate, stock plenum, basic support package. :thumbsup:

wait for ARTZ too, his setup is the benchmark in my eyes and i cant wait to see his results.

stock manifold, gate off the housing, good size gate, stock plenum, basic support package. :thumbsup:

Hes taking his sweet time isn't he lol...

If someone wants to lend me a Kando td06sl2-20g and will pay for a tune ill be happy to take my T67 off and give it a try in the name of science!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys, I’m a veteran detailer with years of hands-on experience. I’ll be sharing quick, effective detailing tips to help you keep your Skyline (or any ride) looking its best. Got a question? Fire away!
    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
×
×
  • Create New...