Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

both style.

But I think Kando can only do 8cm TD06/T67 housings in the Mitsu/Trust 3 bolt housing. They couldnt do me a TD05 housing or TD06H Trust style housing. That was 6 months ago so maybe doing them now?!?!?!?!

30% extra air flow should make quite a big power difference maybe even some more response u going to try one simonR32 ill be keen after seeing some results ??

I have been looking into this a fair but and its so hard to get reliable information. From what I can see there is the usual common sources of suppliers. I understand the FP ones are unique, and the BBK ones are unique. There are several other US places doing billet wheels and talk on US forums is that they dont get the response/improvements that the FP wheels get...and it appears they are a common supply. Ditto the BBK wheels which on US forums seem to have them a little behind the FP wheel.

I think I am going to try the 18G then hi-flow it with a 68HTA wheel and see how it looks. If I can get something that hammers on the RB20 then it will be a good thing on the RB24 :)Anywhere around 270-300rwkws is nice. More then anything I want 250rwkws from 4,750rpm

The talk on the 73HTA vs 20G is a genuine increase of 15% in power for same response...on some setups a tad better transient response. So if simply throwing a billet wheel at my 20G has me going fr0m 270rwkws to 305-310rwkws on 98 then I will be the happiest guy in the country. If that goes to plan I will be in all you T67 guys ear to try the 76HTA

I would love to know for real if there really is any difference between the Blouch, CBRD, Forced performance compressors etc. It seems to me the biggest variable is the turbines. Some run GT30 turbines, others cropped Mitsubishi turbines. There is probably a lot of hit and miss with the wheel cropping versions

30% lighter is great, not sure about the 30% extra airflow. Its got the same trim and diameter as the standard part. Not sure how that could flow 30% extra. If it can be spun faster to produce more flow that's one thing, but, whether or not a gain can be had really depends on the compressor map- which we don't have.

30% extra air flow should make quite a big power difference maybe even some more response u going to try one simonR32 ill be keen after seeing some results ??

Seems most of the talk is around the shank of the turbo. The billets being thinner so you actually get more surface area of blade . Well at least thats what the CBRD crowd really emphasise

You can see a small difference in the pics for the adverts

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Billet-Compressor-Wheel-7075-AL-T67-25G-TD07S-25G-Extra-30-airflow-/270897143127?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f12ba5d57#ht_2045wt_1270

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Compressor-Wheel-Mistubishi-T67-TD06SH-TD07S-25G-/290657757814?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac8d6a76#ht_2173wt_1270

LOL, more then anything all I want is one of those pretty billet nuts that go on the comrpessor :)

Yes well im purchasing the t67 this week just wondering weather its worth going the billet or just staying how it is. Really interested to see back to back dyno results, I just dont want to be the one to do it as i dont have the cash

I dont think it will be any worse, potentially better but your talking about a lot of supporting mod.......................

Im sure for them to say 30% more flow that is what it did per RPM on a test bench. Real world application is what could differ. Stao has already done this, while the compressor could flow more I dont think he could easily access it without other revisions... 200 page read to find out too lol

Scott it's hard to keep up, but your post earlier today suggested that the flow increase was related to the round inlet/ 3 bolt style turbine inlet. And that was the direction/purpose of my enquiry.

Then things moved along seamlessly with comments about extra flow capacity related to bigger/different billet compressors.

So what gives? Consensus or hard information about whether Mitsu-style 3 bolt inlet is a good thing?

Who knows? Tial seem to think that if they are going to go to the trouble of making housings for Garrets that they do v-band round rather then square. But then EFR range which are meant to be all things in turbo design are square...but then the TR30R is round....so who knows. Doubt it makes a poofteenths difference in the real world when running on a car. I suppose in theory you can have the same A/R and flow with less friction losses against internal wall of housings.

Yes I did think it should offer a theoretical advantage, hence the question.

The Tial V band inlet/outlet fastening method is very attractive to me from an ease of servicing/installation viewpoint.

A mate who runs an Evo gravel rally car (with anti-lag) has experienced a lot of trouble with the 3-bolt flange nuts coming loose in just one stage (so as little as 20km of competitive driving). Extreme heat cycling partly to blame, but it was fixed by sourcing flash Ralliart spec nuts and conical spring (belleville) washers. Cost to regular plebs like us would be 4.50 per washer (need 2 per stud), and 21.50 per nut... Madness but that's what it takes to keep the bastards tight.

Slight deviation, but makes me wonder if the 3 bolt spec is more prone to having the flange nuts loosening themselves?

Scott it's hard to keep up, but your post earlier today suggested that the flow increase was related to the round inlet/ 3 bolt style turbine inlet. And that was the direction/purpose of my enquiry.

Then things moved along seamlessly with comments about extra flow capacity related to bigger/different billet compressors.

So what gives? Consensus or hard information about whether Mitsu-style 3 bolt inlet is a good thing?

LOL Sorry mate, was distracted by the tennis..

Two different topics. One guy posted he heard the 3 bolt housings work better, to which I agree that I have read 30% better. Then Simon showed a billet 25G wheel which also states 30% more flow..... Which my hypergear related comment was aimed at.

Sorry to have been confusing and probably posting too often, let me know if that clears it up.

I was running Grade 8 bolts and they were typically shagged after a track day. Next week of driving would have small exhaust leaks which I could nip up but were a pain in the ass. The original Trust studs were tops...but when my car went to a workshop for some work all the studs were repalced with bolts and hence the problems started.

Majority of turbo suppliers do them. I got mine from a place in Melb but pretty sure GCG and others all do them. You can easily get them on line from US and if you are like me and never have any time to go buy stuff from actual places so want to buy online

30% lighter is great, not sure about the 30% extra airflow. Its got the same trim and diameter as the standard part. Not sure how that could flow 30% extra. If it can be spun faster to produce more flow that's one thing, but, whether or not a gain can be had really depends on the compressor map- which we don't have.

30% lighter is great... As others have said the extra flow comes from the shank being smaller and not the actual blade diameters.

BUT if there is 30% extra airflow that is going to cause less boost response and more lag for sure. What people forget to think about when looking at flow sizes is no matter how heavy the compressor wheel is, that weight is going to be nothing compared with the force required to push the extra volume of air.

I want to give the billet wheel a go, but I will need some convincing that the redesigned compressor wheel is going to be better :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
    • I'm not 100% how the BMW racers do it, but I know from other brands like Merc, moving, and changing the coolers is one of the things. Like getting a transcooler out from infront of the radiator to out near a wheel arch. So some of the stuff you've got crammed in the middle front, spread it out and open up where you can in the bar to get more air in to the sides.
    • Small update for the day... Turns out the intercooler and engine coolant hose kits are anything but complete....I probably should have counted better but it only really covers about half the coolant hoses in the car, it really just covers the visible stuff and pretends everything else doesn't exist (turbo water feed and returns and also heat exchanger lines through the 2 pumps and cooler) .In any case, I'm happier to have half reliable hoses than none, but a bit of a disappointment. Anyway...finger click (and 5 hours).....hoses in place, lots of spring clamps replaced with screw clamps, and engine coolant is on the pressure tester for the night.   Incidentally, upsized header tank is an Inifiniti factory option....not sure I'll ever do prod car racing in this but at least it is legal.
    • Just weld it onto the hot pipe. If you want it right after the turbo, put it right after the turbo. Or rip the comp cover off and drill and tap a hole into it.
    • hahaha glad I can rely on you two to go on a spiral at the drop of a problem! Some quick answers....the ducting is excellent top bottom and sides....everything that gets in goes through the coolers (noting the oil cooler redirects it out again, fair call if it is cooling 120o+) and the heat exchanger for the intercooler also has some scoops to pick up more than it's fair share too. I can't see going down the water spray track....no bueno for formal racing and a big risk for long rally days if you run out (plus I'm not clear if it is allowed there either yet).   Frankly, it must be possible to reliably put 400kw through a standard front end, the BMWs do it so I just need to work it out....I'm starting with reducing blockages in the way and adding some coolant capacity with a bigger header tank, flushing rad and making sure it was filled/bled properly (I didn't do the last coolant change); also taken measurements incase next step is a bigger/higher capacity custom radiator
×
×
  • Create New...