Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have thought about that too, but can't help but feel that there is a possibility the owner will want to charge for more boost at some point in the future. I tend to think of F20Bs and more so H22As as parallels of RB25s, which I'd probably not put a TD05 on either. I think in this case a little more lag and more than enough flow would be the preferred, but still pondering on it.

.... the brutal hit of the 20g.

LOL, I wish it had a brutal hit :) The car that I drove years ago that made me go TD06-20G was an 180SX Jap Drift car and it did come on harder then the RB20...but wasnt as brutal as say an RB25 with HKS 3040...that came on HARD!

Re the low boost Honda. As a rough guide my thing makes 180rwks at 8psi. 225rwkws at 14psi and 260rwkws at 19psi...roughly. So they work ok at lower pressure ratios giving you a decent gain per psi even at low boost

Roy - cheers, thats the 20G with TD06 hotside - right? Thats one of the reasons I am pondering the full TD06SL2 20G, an 18G etc will make >230kw - but they may need the boost more. The Honda needs decent flow at lower boost, and they drive turbos reasonably well. If we went TD05 (or even 06) with an 18G compressor and found that it isn't flowing quite as much as we need then that would be quite a pain. If we go TD06SL2 20G its going to make the power the engine will want to make on 11-12psi as far as I can tell, but it will be less responsive than the 18G (esp. TD05 hotside one), which relatively speaking is probably less of a fail as I can't see the TD06SL2 being terribly laggy relative to rev range.

The trick here is the current turbo on the car is a Chinese 700hp something or another, so anything compared to that is probably going to feel supercharged :) The other thing to remember is with a filthy Honda, with this car the party starts at around 5500rpm and redline on this fella is 8000rpm regardless of if or what turbo is on it.

Appreciate any thoughts or experience that might help with this, as at the moment just trying to make the best educated guess.

Do you really peg the H22A with similar character to an RB25? That's some jump.

If its good flow at low boost I would be thinking larger compressor smaller turbine. Maybe TD05H 20G? I can only see this as a negative if the user wants to access the upper most regions of the compressors flow capacity. Remember again the Evos do quite well out of the little TD05H :thumbsup:

Do you really peg the H22A with similar character to an RB25? That's some jump.

If its good flow at low boost I would be thinking larger compressor smaller turbine. Maybe TD05H 20G? I can only see this as a negative if the user wants to access the upper most regions of the compressors flow capacity. Remember again the Evos do quite well out of the little TD05H :thumbsup:

I'm not actually sure what you're saying by saying "Thats some jump", surely you aren't talking about an RB25 over an H22A?

Yeah, I had thought about the whole TD05/20G idea as well and still think its well worth considering though mindful of the fact that 240kw @ wheels on an EVO is pushing the old TD05s quite hard while there is the possibility we could be looking at numbers in that range from the Honda and really keen on ideally not becoming knock limited - or at least minimally so.

I owned a H22A VTEC Prelude in Auckland for 4 years, damn nice cars, and the H22A really gets going after 5500rpm - almost turbo goodness - they are quite high compression engines though, I take it that your friend's block (talking to you Lithium) has the compression lowered as its already turboed??

Yep, around 9.5:1 compression - and yeah, they are very good motors and have epic potential. My flatmates Prelude makes in the area of 190fwkw, which would be respectable for a turbo 4cyl even :)

Thats a bit hard to digest, from the factory they are 150kw at the engine, lets say this is 110-120 fwkw, and since Hondas are NA and so well tuned and designed from the factory, no amount of headers, exhaust, intake and VTEC controllers is going to net you that much gain over stock (unlike turbo cars), I think roughly even 30fwkw gain over stock is huge for a Honda. If that Prelude makes 190fwkw without a turbo (unless its the same friend with the turbo H22A?) then thats either pretty phenomenal or too good to be true..pinch.gif

If that Prelude makes 190fwkw without a turbo then thats either pretty phenomenal

Cheers, will tell the owner that... he gets a kick out of people being incredulous at the results :D A huge amount of work into it to get there - it goes a tad beyond exhaust intake and VTEC controller but no its not the car we're matching a turbo for so a bit OT, was pointing out these things can breathe something fierce if they want to.

gtfo with all your Honda talk.

with the lovely day yesterday with dry roads, i was able to test the current tune on only 14psi and it is very responsive.

will be interesting to compare graphs with mine and a gt3071 to compare boost/rpm when i get it.

cant wait to experience the full tune of 22psi in a few weeks!

will be lots of fun.. :devil:

oh and the car sounds extremely g4y with the gate plumbed up, it needs to scream!!

gtfo with all your Honda talk.

with the lovely day yesterday with dry roads, i was able to test the current tune on only 14psi and it is very responsive.

will be interesting to compare graphs with mine and a gt3071 to compare boost/rpm when i get it.

cant wait to experience the full tune of 22psi in a few weeks!

will be lots of fun.. :devil:

oh and the car sounds extremely g4y with the gate plumbed up, it needs to scream!!

I always thought you were the boy who digs Hondas.. On a different note, its good to hear you like the Kando TD06 on your 34 Neo, thats the way I'm sure I will be heading soon.:yes: From initial impressions, does the boost and 'torque feel' ramp up hard and aggressive or is it the boring linear feeling turbo that some people love??

Roy, can you please post up your latest td06-20g dyno graph so i got something to work off :)

Will be interesting to see the difference. I only have road speed graphs which normally look ok ithrough the mid due to the shorter gearing and 17" wheels.

This is my current one, running Plazmaman, 6boost and the difference is 98 and ARC cooler vs 100 and R34 GTR cooler.

med_gallery_462_50_656235.jpg

This gives you an idea of how much I lost with the Plazmaman and 6boost manifold

med_gallery_462_50_277177.jpg

LOL, so looking at the above graph you may start to understand why sometimes I seem like an argumentative bastard with looking to quantify results or asking questions. I have spent about 2k on manifold changes only to lose power and response and make the car more sensitive to ignition and detonation :spank:

Cheers, will tell the owner that... he gets a kick out of people being incredulous at the results :D A huge amount of work into it to get there - it goes a tad beyond exhaust intake and VTEC controller but no its not the car we're matching a turbo for so a bit OT, was pointing out these things can breathe something fierce if they want to.

agreed the honda product is hugely underated.. People in the states slap a turbo or 2 on a v6 accord and it easily pokes out 300fwkw...and there inlies their problem "FWKW" as useless as a one legged man in an ass kickin competition..the day they put a diff in the rear end is the day they get the notoriety they deserve..

I always thought you were the boy who digs Hondas.. On a different note, its good to hear you like the Kando TD06 on your 34 Neo, thats the way I'm sure I will be heading soon.:yes: From initial impressions, does the boost and 'torque feel' ramp up hard and aggressive or is it the boring linear feeling turbo that some people love??

yeh mate, comes on hard.

you will not be disappointed if you go down this path.

yeh mate, comes on hard.

you will not be disappointed if you go down this path.

Good to hear you sorted your boost problems mate. Keen to see your dyno results! What rpm are you hitting full boost by with the TD06SL2-20G?

Edited by swarzee

Good to hear you sorted your boost problems mate. Keen to see your dyno results! What rpm are you hitting full boost by with the TD06SL2-20G?

did a test last night,

in 4th from 2000rpm flat foot, it hit full boost by around 37-3800rpm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...