Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

U are spot on. Thats why i try to convince most customers to do everything at once then to keep adding parts that require a retune. Costs more up front but saves alot down the track

Hence why it has taken me 2 years to finish my damn car, because i KEPT adding to it.... :P BUT overall it will be worth it once its all tuned....

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

Posted Images

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

So if u were to run 15psi Jez how much would u expect it to creep ?

As BSA said. This was the minimum boost we

Could run which means no boost controller at all. We even held the wastegate flap open and it still climbed past 22psi

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

there are plenty of successful highflows running 15psi or less mate, cmon........

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted

Except when the minimum boost it will run is 18psi. Ask Mitcho. I dont feel its safe to try max the injectors out and leave them running like that.

Yeh, it's a bit of a lucky dip with the actuator you get with the HG turbos. I asked for a 14psi several times but on the dyno it wouldn't run any less than 18psi like Jez mentioned. I dont know if there's anyway to tell what actuator it is without it being on the dyno either, so you won't know til you get it tuned...

Mitcho_7 Mentor

Mitcho_7

Posted
Posted (edited)

Or 20 psi like I found haha

More boost the bigger the smile :D

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Edited by Mitcho_7
Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

The more tears long term as well maybe haha!

20 psi is probably fine though and it's not like you are hitting 20psi all day everyday either. It'd be for a couple of seconds max on the street. If you are at a track on full load for several laps or whatever then it might not be ideal for a stock engines longevity...

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yeah we put birds results down to difference in dyno.

Or he has a healthy engine.

Jez warned me about tracking the car on 20psi but I dont have plans to track it just yet.

When I do I will source a better quality actuator with say 14psi then bring it up using my ebc

Anyways lol talking about hyper gear in kando thread.

Back on topic

What ever happened with the bloke and his cracked comp wheel?

Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

lol thought I was in the HG thread for a second.

On a side note, birds made 250+rwkw on only 16psi with his ss1pu I think. So good numbers are possible without needing to run lots of boost.

Yer 258rwkw and 16psi from the SS1PU highflow, though interestingly, it was sitting at 15psi where it made peak power. There's definitely more in it too - my setup has also been said to have a lot of restrictions, though I do have quite a healthy engine. RacePace's dyno has never been said to read happy, however, Jez's could read low too.

In the end, screw figures, all that matters is whether it puts a smile on your face when you mash the pedal, and mine does :)

adam999111 Enthusiast

adam999111

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I'm getting a td06sl2-25g. Just wondering is it work the risk of getting the anti surge housing. Or should I just stick to what works and get one without anti surge. Btw 10cm rear with a/r 0.60 comp housing

The general consensus here is to get the T67 instead. The specs of the wheels are the same, but the T67 uses a TD07 shaft which is thicker and stronger.

The T67 also has a .70 AR comp housing, which will effectively need less boost for the same levels of flow, and is an oil only turbo which makes it a bit neater to set up in the bay.

Go the T67 10cm!

adam999111 Enthusiast

adam999111

Posted
Posted

Nah I didn't mean 20g I meant 25g. I think it will be too laggy and a headache to fit low mount on standard manifold (0.70 a/r) which is what I want to do hence why I would like the 0.60. The only difference is the housing a/r and the shaft diameter which is only 8% smaller. I would like to see full boost before 4000 on around 18psi. I haven't seen a t67 reach full boost before 4000rpm on 98. I would be happy to be corrected as I could go a t67 with billet wheel.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

Mate the difference between a TD06SL2 and a T67 (in terms of performance) is only the difference in the comp cover.

That seriously wont effect spool like what you are imagining, its more so going to effect how much flow the compressor can give at what pressure ratio. And as stated the larger housing is going to need less pressure to flow the same amount. The spool difference is likely to be negligable.

Trying to fit it on the standard lowmount though, now your talking a different can of beans... And I suggest you consider a hypergear instead. Be it myself, I would rather a standard issue hypergear G3 than I would a T67 on a low mount. If you were to put a highmount into it I would then say Go the T67.

adam999111 Enthusiast

adam999111

Posted
Posted

I disagree that spoil difference is negligible. Unless negligible is 300rpm. A larger housing will take longer to compress air as its the same wheel filling a larger area. Regardless the question was with regards to the anti surge housing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Duncan
      From Japan and back to Europe, my sh*tbox R34 GTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Duncan
      New

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...