Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh the "hilarious" comment was directed at the turbine blade being supposing replaced/fixed.

Was such a pain to get him to do anything, I was emailing him every 3-4 days just to keep things moving. the turbo was sitting lost in his factory for a week before I emailed him and then he found the thing.

I can only figure all the wheels must be like that... He can't have cleaned it and thought "she will be right" when it obviously took you time to look the first time and were going to check again.

It's a $99 (retail) part... I just can't understand the reasoning for cleaning it and giving it back when it's so cheap to replace.

Just a thought, it had several cracks before yeah? Does the new/washed one have multiple ones, I can only see one in the photo

I know it's totally irrelivent here, so just ignor it. When I was having a look at an old jet engine I looked at the turbine and it had dozens of little cracks all over it. I said to the tech that this must have been a spare parts engine. He turns to me and says , nah she'd be sweet like that and fly just fine. He went on to say people wouldnt believe that state of some things flying around.

From someone with turbo building experience, is a crack like that a fatal flaw, that will break in a matter of time? No doubt it's not good business practice what you've experienced battery.

How longs shipping take with kando? I ordered my T67 2 weeks ago and still nothing, 3 days after I bought it I asked him if it was sent and he said hes still making it? Why list something on ebay if its not ready to be shipped?

Found out my 2xTD05's were sent to "Austria" when they hadn't arrived after 3 weeks. That said, Eiji sent another set which turned up about a week later.

Yeh the "hilarious" comment was directed at the turbine blade being supposing replaced/fixed.

Was such a pain to get him to do anything, I was emailing him every 3-4 days just to keep things moving. the turbo was sitting lost in his factory for a week before I emailed him and then he found the thing.

my bad (damn small phone screen :P)

So is it a crack or just a casting imperfection? Pretty disappoininting. Maybe I should pull apart my 18G and have a close look at it

Crack. You can see light through it if you hold on a certain angle.

I can only figure all the wheels must be like that... He can't have cleaned it and thought "she will be right" when it obviously took you time to look the first time and were going to check again.

It's a $99 (retail) part... I just can't understand the reasoning for cleaning it and giving it back when it's so cheap to replace.

Just a thought, it had several cracks before yeah? Does the new/washed one have multiple ones, I can only see one in the photo

I hear you Simon and I really want this Kando stuff to work out cause im a fan of bang for buck gear but it just seems like the more I deal with them the worse it gets...

It has more than 1 crack, honestly looks similar to the old one but I can't be sure. It does seem like it could be a result of the manufacturing process because the wheel is quite thin around that area but to me it just looks like a weakness and a fault waiting to happen.

The few experts i have talked to about this(without seeing the turbo) have just said flat out that its no good but i think ill have to take it down and get them to have a good look in person.

Crack. You can see light through it if you hold on a certain angle.

I hear you Simon and I really want this Kando stuff to work out cause im a fan of bang for buck gear but it just seems like the more I deal with them the worse it gets...

It has more than 1 crack, honestly looks similar to the old one but I can't be sure. It does seem like it could be a result of the manufacturing process because the wheel is quite thin around that area but to me it just looks like a weakness and a fault waiting to happen.

The few experts i have talked to about this(without seeing the turbo) have just said flat out that its no good but i think ill have to take it down and get them to have a good look in person.

Interesting... I hope that he hasn't just f**ked you over because that would not be very professional (or good for business)

Somebody should email Eiji a link to this thread. I wonder if the amount of business he would lose would bother him.

This sort of thing is putting him into the cheap chinese basket when we previously considered Kando to be a good value item. Its now looking like their QA is dropping off something massive, and has me worried.

Whenever I consider a new setup for myself or a friend, I always consider a Kando product first. But I am not liking this change.

MAYBE, just maybe, the reason why QA seems to be dropping off is attributed to the fact Kamak are selling their own product (for more than double what Kando do).

So I took the paper weight down to a few turbo specialists, first place said "its dodgy but should be okay" I asked if they could supply and fit a new wheel they were like no we only touch our own stuff. Second place was like "No way can you run that shit it will explode" they would supply and fit a new one for around $400, $200 if i supply the wheel. Both places were obviously very bias and happy to jump on the "shit china turbo" boat...

Also compared pictures of the old one and now im pretty sure the turbine wheel has been replaced cause the cracks look different. I'd say they are all like this but whether or not its an issue is what im not sure about....

i guess currently it aint damaging perfomance as such say ure had been likt that from the start it lasted how long ?? ive got t67 aswell cant currently check to see if mines the same.

Im thinkin personally ill purchase some spares and get it rebuilt here if something goes wrong

Also i posted few pages back saying id have my results up soon well it been delayed a bit.I smashed some valves so back of with the head going metal headgasket this time looking around 300 this tune then looking for more power later down the track with e85 and water meth

So I took the paper weight down to a few turbo specialists, first place said "its dodgy but should be okay" I asked if they could supply and fit a new wheel they were like no we only touch our own stuff. Second place was like "No way can you run that shit it will explode" they would supply and fit a new one for around $400, $200 if i supply the wheel. Both places were obviously very bias and happy to jump on the "shit china turbo" boat...

Also compared pictures of the old one and now im pretty sure the turbine wheel has been replaced cause the cracks look different. I'd say they are all like this but whether or not its an issue is what im not sure about....

Smash it back on and just run it :) The worst that can happen is you loose the rear wheel and it flys out the back of your exhaust or gets stuck in the cat

To make you feel better about it, it's not a load bearing surface (I think) and if mine is the same they can take and beating haha

Finally got a reply and this is the result

Hi Mark,

I check with our delivery department and was replied there seems problem on the T67 turbine shaft and we could balance it.

We are still trying to solve the problem.

I am still in business in korea and will be back tomorrow afternoon.

I will double check the situation for this turbo for you.

By the way, if the T67 turbine wheel can not be solved, could you accept the bearing system to TD06SL2-25G type like this ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-4-TD06SL2-25G-T3-10cm-V-Band-External-450P-/280868632390?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4165133746#ht_2463wt_1185

it can go with anti-surge inlet as well.

The both wheel spec is same.

All the difference is bearing system.

Sorry for waiting and inconvenience.

Regards

Eiji Takada

jez hates anything in large quantities. boost, timing, power, you name it.

except cock. he loves cock.

Hahahahaha.

Only thing i don't like is large heads on customers :P

I love big boost just not when u bring a 10:1 comp sr20 with 98 octane and try running 16psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...