Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im pretty sure all the Kando options come with the Kamak performance thrust bearing - so that shouldnt be a worry.

However Stao has managed a good thing with the aero on his billet wheels, and I know he has applied that to a T67 along the way. The threads now bleed into eachother in many areas.

Anyone wanting a T67 would want to read the Hypergear thread also as I think he back to backs his billet T67 against another customers normal T67.

The billet compressor wheel if made into identical specification as cast wheel the difference is almost none exist.

The compressor wheel can only make a difference, with alterations to its wheel blade profile, hub profile. Those are possible because the billet material is stronger then cast, while the standard cast item is very conservative in its design for reliability. In this case compressor wheel names don't necessarily be matching its cast output, It is very possible that we can produce a 20G compressor wheel that matches the 25G's efficiency.

My goal in customized turbo design is in scarifies the least amount of resource for most of out put. Means greater area under power curve within usable rev range, and this is archiveble with customized compressor wheel and housings. Make a perfect compressor wheel comes into a lot of evaluations, the current 25G compressor wheel is the very first prototype yet to be trailed till tuner gets back. I'll be trying to get this turbocharger upto the 400rwkws on stock cams while reaching it below 7000RPMs.

Make a perfect compressor wheel comes into a lot of evaluations, the current 25G compressor wheel is the very first prototype yet to be trailed till tuner gets back. I'll be trying to get this turbocharger upto the 400rwkws on stock cams while reaching it below 7000RPMs.

now this bit interests me :) keen for the results on this...

The 25G comp wheel is in 78mm, its bit large for the turbine end and I'm very interested to know what sort of EGT you guys are getting as I've received couple of emails in relation of replacing cracked and broken T67 turbine wheels since the start of TDxx developments. But have not seen any using the 20G compressor setup.

I might want to reduce it to 74~76mms with a slightly lower blade profile for better torque and power within 7000RPMs rev range and lower EGT depending on how this one goes.

Yeh I'd be taking a hypergear option over a kando if I was looking today... Have a look at the SS2 ex gate results, it seems to make the power earlier on then fall off around 6500 where as the T67 dosen't seem to reach full potential until 7500 and beyond.. so realistically for a car with a stock rev limit I think the hypergear is the smarter option??

Kando is cheaper I think? but you get much better service before and after sale with the hypergear.

hey something just hit me, all the t67 results we have seen posted have been with Greddy style plenums...these are renowned for losing midrange torque while all the HG results we have seen are with a stock plenum and runners...

t67vs.jpg

looking at the chart and thats exactly where the power is missing...@ around 7000rpm it has caught up again and we know it will keep pulling to 8000rpm +....where HG turbo has well and truely fallen over...

So im gunna say im not yet convinced and the only way we can really solve this is to run a t67 with stock intake....any takers ;)

dont think so....thought he stole yours...

Yeh just had a look again looks like it was josh typeX results.. So you have a good point then, still a pretty big difference though! i'd certainly go back to the stock plenum if it helped the midrange to match that HG lol

has anybody tried the TD03-7g

i know this guy with a daewoo matiz..800cc 3 cylinders of lame supercar destroying awesomeness....do you think this will work should be good for at least 80hp yeah?

http://www.ebay.com....=item43b72c1729

I also found a gt15 for half the price good for 100-200hp..might be a little large though

Years ago, my mate fitted a Nissan Terrano turbo to his suzuki cappuccino, went hard on 20+psi with computer/injectors/bigger cooler

I have no idea what turbo is on them

edit: i did a quick google...loooks like it had a garrett Gt2052 on it..was fun, big ramp onto boost

Edited by jet_r31

The 25G comp wheel is in 78mm, its bit large for the turbine end and I'm very interested to know what sort of EGT you guys are getting as I've received couple of emails in relation of replacing cracked and broken T67 turbine wheels since the start of TDxx developments. But have not seen any using the 20G compressor setup.

I might want to reduce it to 74~76mms with a slightly lower blade profile for better torque and power within 7000RPMs rev range and lower EGT depending on how this one goes.

I havnt read all the pages but wondering what kando turbo would suit a 4L falcon if any, and would a kando give much flow in comparison to its competitors garrett and precision turbos if ran at under 10psi or are they similar to a gtx and needs minimum 20psi to feel them working.

Ford XR6 runs of a 82mm comp with a 1.06 turbine it is physically larger on both compressor and turbine end you need to run a much bigger turbo. years ago we've made a customized turbo based a GT45 1.26 twinscroll turbine and Garrett BRD351 compressor that have see 458rwkws on a Ford XR6 turbo with pretty good response.

Ford XR6 runs of a 82mm comp with a 1.06 turbine it is physically larger on both compressor and turbine end you need to run a much bigger turbo. years ago we've made a customized turbo based a GT45 1.26 twinscroll turbine and Garrett BRD351 compressor that have see 458rwkws on a Ford XR6 turbo with pretty good response.

that sounds impressive, but mines a daily driver and looking for a cheap setup with high response and working with stock auto so somthing like 200-240kw max on 8psi , will the kando turbo's do this or are they needing alot of boost?

that sounds impressive, but mines a daily driver and looking for a cheap setup with high response and working with stock auto so somthing like 200-240kw max on 8psi , will the kando turbo's do this or are they needing alot of boost?

All you need is a stock BA XR6 internally gated turbo. We've built one for a Auto Falcon last year made 311rwkws E85 with 11psi of boost, close to no lag.

hey something just hit me, all the t67 results we have seen posted have been with Greddy style plenums...these are renowned for losing midrange torque while all the HG results we have seen are with a stock plenum and runners...

looking at the chart and thats exactly where the power is missing...@ around 7000rpm it has caught up again and we know it will keep pulling to 8000rpm +....where HG turbo has well and truely fallen over...

So im gunna say im not yet convinced and the only way we can really solve this is to run a t67 with stock intake....any takers ;)

Mine has the stock manifold, i'll try and get the dyno sheet off the tuner.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
×
×
  • Create New...