Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

Posted Images

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

yes very tempted....looks i can only gain it definately has more top end and loses nothing anywhere else :D

its asking alot of my stock manifold, though in theory i could make the same power I do now with a little less boost...

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

to me the theoretical limit is in absolutes, so you could still gain midrange :)

its a gamble but seems worth it for sure! And it would be a true back to back for everyone moving forward.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Aren't you simply running moire boost so jump in mid range and power kind of expected?

need to compare thin blue power line to pink line, more power with less boost. i have a feeling the exhaust manifold heaps here too.
ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

yeah i'm a little confused too Roy, the date on the paper is same date I got mine tuned yet neither graph looks to be mine, as mine seems to fall somewhere inbetween the pink and blue....its actually closer to the pink but with a bit more boost and im topping out earlier..Im wondering if the standard manifold is helping create a little more torque in my midrange as well..

and why is Staos car 10kms slower at 6060rpm??

r33e85tune001_zps3bc225db.jpg20gvspower_zpsb09b9c3c.jpg

the times also dont match, maybe an earlier tune than my final been used or maybe my tune with a high mount got a different result I dunno......obviously I dont yet fully understand the intricacies of dyno tuning but I daresay the small differences we see are just mechanical.....i was also running a 3.5 ex and screamer at time of tune..it has all been plumbed back now..

I think its fair to say the manifold has made some difference. But, it is also fair to say Staos new wheel can definitely pump more boost and power than mine ever could as other cars with the sl2 and high mount haven't made that much power that I know of and usually die out around 20psi... the fact he is making more power even though the boost is dropping off a good 3 psi has to say something about its performance...

unfortunately I'm unemployed and going back to school, so too strapped for cash (read missus will kill me if she sees me spend money on that car) to try it atm but it would be good too do as I think it would be an improvement..got any work Stao maybe I could do some deliveries or wash and detail your car or something, cause technically a fair trade is not spending money on my car right..at least thats what I tell the wife.? :rofl:

floody Experienced

floody

Posted
Posted

So I want a new turbo for my RB20DET as its going to be pointless swapping my VG30 OP6 turbo onto my RB20DET-R manifold. Thinking this TD06SL2 8cm with Garrett 60-1 compressor would be a good thing. I have Nistune, Z32 AFM, GT-R injectors, unopened motor, RB20DET-R spaghetti manifold. I am thinking internal gate as space will be at a premium with the turbo placement on that manifold for tapping the exhaust housing for ex. gate, and no way in hell am I cutting up the manifold itself. I'd like to shoot for 1.2-1.5bar boost and hopefully 220-240rwkw.

Is it going to be completely useless for my application?

I was otherwise going to go for a T3/T4 60 trim Garrett with ATP's 'ultimate internal gate' (ford bolt on type)to try and replicate the GTS-R's T04E as closely as possible but the Kando seems an equally good option for a lot less money by the time you factor in all the fittings and stuff.

Thoughts?

floody Experienced

floody

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hell no, I ain't selling that thing ever! And yeah I'd never chop it up, no way no how. Its been suggested I weld an elbow onto an external gate housing and run a gate off that, or run a spacer with a gate pipe between turbo and manifold, but I think I'm going to run out of room in either situation there (strut tower in the first instance and engine mounts in the second), so I just want to know if I can reasonably successfully run an internal gate at that kind of power/boost level.

Edited by floody
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

floody Experienced

floody

Posted
Posted (edited)

For 220-240 and internal gate why arent you considering a hypergear?

Get him to make you an SS1PU with a 3" vband outlet on the back, or you can just get the current turbo highflowed to that spec and it will bolt straight back on.

It will be the simplest possible setup you can imagine and should shit in 220. I cant understand why its being overlooked....

Mostly because I know nothing about them, nobody I know has ever used one, but looking at the spec on their website it sounds like a good thing. That said, its more expensive than even the Garrett option I'm looking at, and almost double the cost of the Kando for the turbo and v-band gate alone. Which is fine if its twice as good?

Edited by floody
GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

floody Experienced

floody

Posted
Posted (edited)

lets not get our knickers in a twist.

I dont see how a garrett could be cheaper than a HG, or how you could consider a kando to be half the price if you had read this thread all the way through. Kando VS HG is something that has been discussed on nearly half the pages in here.

A HG shouldnt cost you any more than $1,100 regardless of which model your looking at. A kando will cost $800, plus $400 for a gate, and probably another $500 to hang the gate off the housing and make a custom dump. The HG will come with the same 6 bolt dump flange you have now if you want it to and will bolt right on as an internal gate.

None of the options available can be said to be better than the other, they all have their ups and downs and you need to read the threads to familiarize yourself with them.

The Garrett I am interested in is $740USD for the bare turbo with my choice of exhaust housing, $168usd for the v-band bolt on gate; $908AUD currently. Plus an unknown amount to ship.

The Kando is $785, including a bunch of fittings, choice of wastegate actuator etc.

The Hypergear is listed on site at $1150 for the bare turbo plus $180 for the wastegate, plus shipping.

All linked in my previous post.

So on my maths, so long as the Garrett doesn't cost more than $300 to ship it should come in as cheap as or cheaper than the HG's pre-shipping cost, and no, HG's $1330 isn't double $785 but its getting close. I don't need or want the 6 bolt flange I have now, because the long tube GTS-R manifold turns the turbo almost 90° and sites it lower than the non-R cast manifolds do; no matter what I will be having a V-band dump made.

My preference is for an internal gate turbo (either cast in or bolt on gate) with a V-band outlet.

Edited by floody

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • GoHashiriya
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GoHashiriya · Posted

      I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Something's broken.
    • PranK
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By PranK · Posted

      It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • ShezzDogs
      R34 Skyline Sunroof Won't Tilt/Vent

      By ShezzDogs · Posted

      Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...