Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kando-TD06-RB25-dyno-chart.jpg

Swapped my rear housing to a 10cm, made 235kw on 18psi. Was expecting more, and the Stagea needs more being a big heavy car.

Mick had to put a shim in the turbosmart gate to stiffen the spring, as it didn't want to hold boost. You can see it peaks at 18-19psi and then tapers down rather quickly. Rubbish, my old tial off the skyline held boost rock solid.

Turbo didn't want to make any more power either apparently, which is pretty lame.

Specs:

Kando TD06H 10cm
Turbosmart comp gate (f**king rubish unit, never using it again!)

3 inch exhaust

return flow intercooler

high flow injectors
Haltech E11
Run in RWD
98 Octane

I guess I'll go a T67 next, or probably back to Garret. See what happens. Unless someone can suggest something good for 280-300kw? needs to be low mount though for uber stealth.

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

After seen Roy mentioning about the TD06H I went through all TD06H dyno readings on Trent's dyno and did comparison against the SL2 turbine. TD06H turbine appeared to be laggier without making any more power. You can try our billet SS2 comped SL2s that is a step up from the standard 20Gs, or I think a standard highflowed turbo would make more power.

depending on where the external gate is attached. won't make good results if it is welded on turbine housing, locating it to exhaust manifold would prove other wise.

Cheap return flow cooler do have heatsoaking issue and takes much longer to heat sink compare to a good branded cooler.

^^ This, if done right.

All Stao's attempts have been at 90 degrees to the flow I think, mine (Artz's) had a nicely die ground entry knife edge with a curved pipe. There is no way the exhaust flow can do a 90 degree bend while travelling at the speed of sound...

post-63525-0-13236700-1361261874_thumb.jpg

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

I'm not using a justjap kit, we made our own using a core with inlet/outlet on the one side.

But still, kinda don't want to spend any more money on it until I know for certian, this whole kando ordeal I've had ... I probably could of bought a 3076 or something with the cash wasted :(

I'll do some digging on the return flow cooler problems though while I'm at it, anyone else had problems with return flow intercoolers?

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

I sold you a intercooler kit? was it brand new? if so you might want to talk to Darren Spencer (as that's who I got it from) about it, he had been importing them and assured they'd be a good fit.

Edited by Run-It-Hard

yep, new, ..worst china cooler kit i have ever seen, f**king pos...if you paid a workshop to fit

it would cost a f**king fortune , absolute mongoloid...not angry at you, just telling you, if you go conventional..do NOT buy another one..lol

i just put a 38mm turbodumb gate on my hypergear G3 turbo of exhaust housing, straight 90 right at the flange, in a stagea has to be close as it ends up to near to the strut tower for my liking, and i am not really sure making it a nice entry makes any difference, i would want to see the results backed to back to worry about piss farting around with it(for this car anyway) . I also woudn't be suprised

if using different brands of gates made a big difference aswell

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

My brothers car had the same problem low power reading cause the return flow cooler setup on his car

He went thru numerous turbo setups all came up short of what they should put out and got his cams dialed in still similar results

End up just changing the cooler to a normal cheap 3inch inlet opposite sides and bang 20kw should have done it to start

Unigroup told him to change the cooler at the start but he didn't want to butcher the battery tray as it was a 180sx they did all the usual tests pressure drop,exhaust back pressure and comp test all came up good

yep ^

I think its more so the harsh turn that the air has to do in order to flow back the way it came which causes friction to the air's particles and super heats the charge after its already been through the cooler.

You then have a nice cap on how much power you can actually make, and theres no way you can test it as pressure drops and air leaks have little to do with it. The core Adam is describing is the worst, where it basically hits a brick wall and is forced back the other way.

I know the air particles business sounds airy fairy star wars but thats actually the way it works. air gets friction against itself and gets hotter.

dsc05822q.jpg


This is the kinda core I'm using lads. I get where your coming from Scott. I guess I need to decide whether I want the car to look stock and have average power, or put in a conventional cooler kit and gain the missing power I should have, if thats the problem.

Another thing Mick mentioned is that the turbo didn't want to make any more boost, maybe the intercooler is a restriction after all. I think I'll sort it out after Eastern creek next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
    • I assume clearances were all a-okay?
    • Shock tower brace is in +5Kw....LOL  
×
×
  • Create New...