Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kando-TD06-RB25-dyno-chart.jpg

Swapped my rear housing to a 10cm, made 235kw on 18psi. Was expecting more, and the Stagea needs more being a big heavy car.

Mick had to put a shim in the turbosmart gate to stiffen the spring, as it didn't want to hold boost. You can see it peaks at 18-19psi and then tapers down rather quickly. Rubbish, my old tial off the skyline held boost rock solid.

Turbo didn't want to make any more power either apparently, which is pretty lame.

Specs:

Kando TD06H 10cm
Turbosmart comp gate (f**king rubish unit, never using it again!)

3 inch exhaust

return flow intercooler

high flow injectors
Haltech E11
Run in RWD
98 Octane

I guess I'll go a T67 next, or probably back to Garret. See what happens. Unless someone can suggest something good for 280-300kw? needs to be low mount though for uber stealth.

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

After seen Roy mentioning about the TD06H I went through all TD06H dyno readings on Trent's dyno and did comparison against the SL2 turbine. TD06H turbine appeared to be laggier without making any more power. You can try our billet SS2 comped SL2s that is a step up from the standard 20Gs, or I think a standard highflowed turbo would make more power.

depending on where the external gate is attached. won't make good results if it is welded on turbine housing, locating it to exhaust manifold would prove other wise.

Cheap return flow cooler do have heatsoaking issue and takes much longer to heat sink compare to a good branded cooler.

^^ This, if done right.

All Stao's attempts have been at 90 degrees to the flow I think, mine (Artz's) had a nicely die ground entry knife edge with a curved pipe. There is no way the exhaust flow can do a 90 degree bend while travelling at the speed of sound...

post-63525-0-13236700-1361261874_thumb.jpg

Adam I reckon its the return flow cooler. Those always cause havoc..

The turbo should make plenty more than that, especially with the H rear side. I'm assuming its a 20G compressor? 260+ should be more like it.

The fact the tuner thinks the turbo is running out of puff definitely tells me the restriction is in the intake side.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

I'm not using a justjap kit, we made our own using a core with inlet/outlet on the one side.

But still, kinda don't want to spend any more money on it until I know for certian, this whole kando ordeal I've had ... I probably could of bought a 3076 or something with the cash wasted :(

I'll do some digging on the return flow cooler problems though while I'm at it, anyone else had problems with return flow intercoolers?

My thoughts exactly regarding what it "should" make. Interesting idea on the return flow cooler setup.

I like how the engine bay looks nearly stock (except the gate off the manifold). But if going the conventional intercooler setup to gain a extra 30-40kw then I'd be down for that.

Though pin-pointing whether it is the cooler setup holding it back, or if I just got a odd turbo or whatever, will be the tricky part.

Just don't buy a "conventional" setup the same as you sold me...what a piece of shit..i fixed it, but what a piece of shit...lol

intercooler pipes didn't line up, not enough silicon, the intecooler pipe mount that goes at top of rockers was complety wrong..lol

cheers

darren

I sold you a intercooler kit? was it brand new? if so you might want to talk to Darren Spencer (as that's who I got it from) about it, he had been importing them and assured they'd be a good fit.

Edited by Run-It-Hard

yep, new, ..worst china cooler kit i have ever seen, f**king pos...if you paid a workshop to fit

it would cost a f**king fortune , absolute mongoloid...not angry at you, just telling you, if you go conventional..do NOT buy another one..lol

i just put a 38mm turbodumb gate on my hypergear G3 turbo of exhaust housing, straight 90 right at the flange, in a stagea has to be close as it ends up to near to the strut tower for my liking, and i am not really sure making it a nice entry makes any difference, i would want to see the results backed to back to worry about piss farting around with it(for this car anyway) . I also woudn't be suprised

if using different brands of gates made a big difference aswell

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

My brothers car had the same problem low power reading cause the return flow cooler setup on his car

He went thru numerous turbo setups all came up short of what they should put out and got his cams dialed in still similar results

End up just changing the cooler to a normal cheap 3inch inlet opposite sides and bang 20kw should have done it to start

Unigroup told him to change the cooler at the start but he didn't want to butcher the battery tray as it was a 180sx they did all the usual tests pressure drop,exhaust back pressure and comp test all came up good

yep ^

I think its more so the harsh turn that the air has to do in order to flow back the way it came which causes friction to the air's particles and super heats the charge after its already been through the cooler.

You then have a nice cap on how much power you can actually make, and theres no way you can test it as pressure drops and air leaks have little to do with it. The core Adam is describing is the worst, where it basically hits a brick wall and is forced back the other way.

I know the air particles business sounds airy fairy star wars but thats actually the way it works. air gets friction against itself and gets hotter.

dsc05822q.jpg


This is the kinda core I'm using lads. I get where your coming from Scott. I guess I need to decide whether I want the car to look stock and have average power, or put in a conventional cooler kit and gain the missing power I should have, if thats the problem.

Another thing Mick mentioned is that the turbo didn't want to make any more boost, maybe the intercooler is a restriction after all. I think I'll sort it out after Eastern creek next week.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...