Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was going to compare the 20G compressor with the 25G as well but I need a 10cm housing for my current TD06 to do that. I have a 10cm housing for my T67 and TD06-25G but not the 20G. I am curious to see the difference the bigger turbine makes to the power and response of the 25G compressor.

But fankly if I get to that point then its not a good sign as I dont want to be paying for that much tuning and messing with it then I am still not happy with any of them...then it gets very expensive

Yep, my manifold is 3 bolt.

Anyone run a 12cm housing with a T67 their RB25 or RB26? Looking at an equivalency chart the 12cm is meant to be 0.89AR vs the 10cm 0.73AR

Also, just discovered there is a 12 blade 65mm TD06 and an 11 blade 65mm TD06. Having just got off the phone with the US the 11blade 65mm TD06 flows more than the 61mm L2...hence why they prefer the 11blade 65mm turbine on the larger, higher flowing billet wheels.

LOL, who knows. Seems none of my 10cm housings match my old 20G or my new billet turbo so guess I will just grab a 12cm. At least I will get an idea of what the compressor will flow with the larger housing and will have to keep an eye out for a 3 bolt 10cm housing in the future.

So it seems the best we can tell is that the T67s off this particular GTR I was playing swapsies with were all 65mm turbines ...so will have to have a measure with some verniers over the weekend just to be sure.

LOL, the joys of using left over hand me down parts in a build.

I think I may just throw the T67 on ... I really want to try the billet wheel but perhaps I am best to grab a 12cm housing for the T67 and compare like for like with the 10cm I have for it. The Kando housings are only $150 so could be a goer if it continues to be all too hard...lol all i want to do is decide on a turbo then havea fire sale to get rid of one day-what if parts :)

It's a copy - I should have been more specific, do they have boost control issues with the internal wastegate setup? I am sure in essence the TD05-16G will offer the performance we'd be looking for if the boost does what we want it to.

I've done a TD05-18G on an SR from Kando, which works well. Has done a couple of tens of thousand K's since install and countless beatings.

Holds 16psi well with a minor tapper.

The TD05H-18G gives reasonable down low with a sudden surge onto good power at the 3700 mark. Motor is an SRDE non VCT. VCT models would do better in terms of spool character.

Very different.

The 18G is more like a better behaved GTRS/2871 than it is a 2530/2860RS.

the 2530 is more linear in delivery with less in the middle and up top of the curve. The 18G read over 500nm @4200rpm on a mustang dyno.

the 18g feels a lot like your half throttling and at 3700 you decide to pin it. The 2871 is similar but with less down low. The 2530 is probably boogying at 3300 and slowly rising from there.

Ok, i have only experience with the 2530, last one i did one million yrs ago did 228rwkw on a sr on 98, maxed out, picked up

2rwkw per psi so stopped at 18psi from memory, so on E85 would they do 250 ish?.

What peak numbers do the Td05 16G do on a Sr20 on 98 and E85?

I ask as my mate has a Datsun L18 in a fairlady , has custom efi mani, a diesel L series cast iron exhaust mani(they come with t25 flange

to), um ported head, camtech [email protected], 480 thou lift 116 LSA cam, and a AEM water/methanol injection setup ..we have these 2 turbo to choose from, (2530, and just looked, its a T517z)

now if i can recall, doesn't the 2530 spool a little bit quicker, and make just a little bit less top end?

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

So it seems no matter what boost we squeeze into the 20G 310rwkws is all she wrote. So the lil TD06-20G has served me well for 10 years in April this year But this week she gets retired.

Whats the verdict on teh billet TD06s getting around. Have any proven they can outflow a 25G yet?

yeah but if 300kws is your goal...its beautiful...its only rated to 450hp anyway so its smashing that

being a DE on the factory dizzy, single coil and leads (20yo items lol) we left it on a very non agressive tune @ 16psi (14psi actuator). Does 210rwkw as is, a single degree more timing got a little noisier than Jez liked but was picking up roughly 10kw.

There was at least 230 in it on the Mustang dyno, but we werent in a position to get it there safely. The torque is there, so the car is fast regardless. it more or less has peak power at peak torque lol

to get an idea of a T517Z power potential just look at what a stock evo does. the 4G63 is probably better for making power but its also putting it to 4 wheels. a 517Z is a 16G6 compressor (ala evo 3 big 16G and evo 4-9).

Look at my comparison dyno graph of the gt2530 eflex vs tdo5h18g pump 98 shits over it below 4500rpm and keeps up just ahead till redline due to the eflex Same engine And mods just turbo and fuel difference

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=370325

I've got the tdo5h18g now on eflex aswell nothing special under 4000rpm but once above its aggressive as not very street friendly and only made 14kw more up top spewin I changed setup

went from 250kw and heaps of linear power before 4500rpm to 264kw but not much power before 4000rpm and the tdo5h18g is now on 24psi dropping to 21psi where as the hks2530 is on 21psi dropping to 19psi

Edited by hy_rpm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey keep the ideas coming, I'm always keen on projects! But, problem fixed!  I got a cheapie ozito scope from Bunnings and had a good look in and around the bearing and sensor hole. I couldn't see a smoking gun but the bearing looked a bit strange, especially when comparing with a new one. I thought the cover had come off the bearing magnets.  Sorry for pics of a screen, I didn't have an SD card.     Good thing I had the old one to inspect. So, given I'm like a pit crew with wheel bearings and luckily I had a spare bearing because I f**ked up my parts order, I decided to just smash it out. Got the old one out in about an hour. So much easier when the parts haven't had a chance to rust together yet. 😂 And, well, found the problem.    In the second pic at about the 8 o'clock position, you'll see what I think is the tip of the old sensor.  The new sensor has definitely been rubbing but it's all intact, just a little shiny so I'm hoping it's fine.  The car brakes perfectly now and no errors.  I think the job took about 2.5h in the end. 👍🏻 I really appreciate the help in here as usual. Thanks guys.
    • I was only looking because I saw some drops on the ground but it wasn't alot. Recently had it serviced will ask the mech to confirm. Find it strange that it looks standard though, can see in another photo of a random box 
    • So...not sure if you know if that has always been there or why you went looking. It could be old damage from a clutch explosion, or even just the gearbox got dropped somewhere along the line. Basically, you should seal it up to stop oil and dust getting into the bellhousing, but it doesn't matter too much and is not structural. I'd suggest something like a glob of JB Weld. BTW what gearbox oil are you running, I would guess the breather has been spewing it everywhere.
    • Hey Duncan thanks for your reply. Sorry mate I know the photos are shit.  Took another photo for reference. Seems the casing does have a hole in it looking on the net, fluid seeping out. Added a photo   
    • Very hard to make out what you mean, is it the squarish hole with redline shockproof (probably) under it? Is that pic from on top of the engine with the firewall to the left of pic and engine to the right? Either way, spray the area liberally with degreaser and try again, maybe circle the part you are worried about
×
×
  • Create New...