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This is some usefull info.

does someone have first hand expierence with the latets kando turbo's fitting lowmount and internall wastegate?

Are you more interested in making the full power, or as much response as possible?

I personally am a huge fan of 16G6s on a stock RB20, at least if you are after a good usable power delivery - but the ones with the TD06 compressor cover, not the "bolt on" housing option. If I were doing a stock RB20DET on stock manifolds, this is personally what I'd go for: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Billet-Turbocharger-Bolt-On-3-Anti-Surge-RB20DET-RB25DET-TD05H-16G-8cm-/271457770181?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f3424dac5. There is some debate on their flow, but I view them as an honest ~40lb/min compressor which should get you an honest "400hp @ crank" on a setup which is working well.

It'd probably be worth giving the wastegate port a little bit of opening up to avoid creep as they can do it, and it's not hard to take a bit of meat out of it - the flapper is big enough so cover a bit of opening up. I don't rate 18Gs from what I've seen of them, they don't seem to offer a worthwhile amount more flow than the 16G but lag increases enough that you'd hope for a worthwhile increase. Haven't seen any results of the billet wheel, but logic would have it that its going to be at least as good as the cast wheel given it's the same design with a little bit less hub area (ie, a bit less inertia, a bit more usable volume for pumping air).

Nope - I haven't yet, have fit two internal gate T25 Kandos of otherwise exactly the same model to SR20DETs though - had boost creep on the first one so ported the wastegate which fixed it, and ported the wastegate on the second one without even trying without the porting as we didn't want to risk it again. They both hold boost perfectly, now. On the SR20DETs they are making 1bar by 3500rpm - so pretty responsive, haven had an ACTUAL EVO 3 16G (ie, from an EVO, not a Kando equivalent) on an RB20DET and that made 20psi by 4000rpm from memory and held it to redline.... went very well but was only ever road tuned, so not sure of final power figures but gives a general idea that they won't be a big hold back to a stock RB20 that you'd going to be running 20-22psi through and are plenty responsive.

Obviously the T3 housing version will have it's own isms - the Kando T3 and T25 TD05s fortunately have RB dump pipe compatible flanges etc, so I am assuming they shouldn't be the worst fitment, at worst may need a spacer to clear the comp cover like a lot of upgraded turbos, and naturally a new intake and intercooler piping attachments but I can't see anything being a show stopper.

Bare in mind that 400hp will be at the high end of the turbo's capability on straight BP98, so it would be working harder than some options and I'm more theorising it should get near there - obviously not really much or any dyno results out there for them ... but as I alluded to earlier I'd rather put a 16G than an 18G on one, I reckon the performance balance is better. If the 16G isn't enough, I'd go straight to a 20G :)

Anyway, my brain is fried today so I might stop here before I ramble too much more nonsense - but hope that gives you something to think about.

Yes thanks very much.

I know 400hp will be verry hard and i aint going to cry when i only get 300hp lol.

I was considering td05h 18g of 20g.

But to be honest i don't seem to find the actual dimensions of the blades etc.

I don't really get how it works with the names and sizes. Is there somewhere i can find the actual specs of the 16g 18g and 20g?

i dont want it to be to laggy but fullboost at 4000rpm seems fine to me. I love the katapult feeling you get.

They are all 68mm exducer on the compressor, and they are 48, 50, and 52mm inducer for the 16G, 18G and 20G wheels... Respectively. They all have the same turbine wheel

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

And how about the turbine housing?

should choose 8cm for the 16g and 10cm for the 20g?

9 or 12 blade turbine wheel option?

I remember somthing reading about the 9 blades being better then the 12 blades in this topic.

Do tou also know what size the turbine wheel is?

Edited by m.s.t.

And how about the turbine housing?

should choose 8cm for the 16g and 10cm for the 20g?

9 or 12 blade turbine wheel option?

I remember somthing reading about the 9 blades being better then the 12 blades in this topic.

Do tou also know what size the turbine wheel is?

allready found the turbine wheel size.

How about fitting a td06SL2-20g on lowmount?

Are those wastegates experiencing the same trouble?

I hace this one on my 20 :

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/upgradeturbochargerrb20detrb25detwstage3turbine68mmcomp450bhp.aspx

It start to boost before 2000 rpm in 4th gear, hit 1b by 3500 rpm and 1.4b before 4000 rpm and hold it to redline set à 8200 rpm.

I find it very responsive for a 65mm inducer turbine, the engine is still a rb20, no torque at all below 2000rpm, and sluggish below 3500 rpm. :P

The engine has stock internal, just a custom made front facing plenum, a FMIC and a 3" exhaust system as power adder. Stock cast manifold, oem S13 airbox with a paper filter in it so nothing fancy.

The turbine housing just had a ceramic coating to avoid heat leakage in the engine bay. I didn't ported the wastegate port at all and the boost control is good to me but is sensitive to the spark advance throwed at the engine. With the stock tune I couldn't get the boost lower than 0.9b, with just a lot more spark advance the boost lowered to 0.7b with nothing else changed on the engine.

I din't drove an other kinugawa turbo, a mate of mine got one on his CA18 (td05-20g with a billet wheel), but it's still in breaking in.

  • 1 month later...

Just gonna chime in here with my housemates SR20

Forged SR20

Haltech

United e85

TD06sl2-25g - Internally Gated

Stock manifold

1000cc Injectors

Walbro e85 intank pump

26psi (last 3-4 lazy to make!)

299.4kw

post-50388-0-91424200-1403785365_thumb.jpg

Edited by The WOR57

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled.

Track car, chasing traction friendly delivery and proper boost control.

Spools down low, makes/holds/controls boost flat line from 3500-7000rpm (limit). Peak torque follows the same, just a flat line no drop.

Dyno was a problem with tyres wanting to fry from 6000 onwards.

Boost limited to 16.5psi for the targeted application. No problem bumping more in but we want traction/drive not a hp number.

Made 375rwhp / 280rwkW by 6500. Projecting the line to 7000 its probably making another 15-20hp by the limit however that's not the important bit to me. Fuel is 98, ignition is conservative.

Delivery is smooth and progressive, spool is slightly slower than the old 3076 Pro S 0.87 but it is a more traction friendly setup for roughly the same hp on about 2psi less boost. It's really not operating under 3500rpm on the track so it's a good thing to drive. 3076 was a lovely thing but tuning revealed boost control was difficult and it wasn't capable of holding less than 18psi. It was also much more aggressive to build into max boost which was not as traction friendly with a 2wd ECR chassis.

There are going to be more efficient setups but this thing hit my performance expectations and within budget.

  • Like 2

Dale that sounds incredibly good! Am very happy for you mate!!

Given the boost level and 98 ron that has a bloody shit load of potential for numbers. Were you not tempted to tickle the 20 mark and see what it would do?

I know the potential is there for an easy 50hp, going on what the T67 combination is doing on RB25 engines. This thing has much bigger turbine flow potential/efficiency than the TDO6SL2 / 10cm setup, but probably a bit less compressor potential with the smaller housing employed. With boost cranked up and either E85 or water injection it might even make another 80hp, who knows.

The numbers don't really matter to me at the moment, it's got no shortage of straight line speed for what the car is being used for. The big one is that it puts its grunt to the ground off the corners, and it's very predictable. No soaring mid range boost-induced torque surge to deal with, it's a case of power down and drive. Perhaps in time I might give it a tickle, but as it stands everything is relatively understressed and should live for a good while.

  • Like 1

Has anyone bolted a pair of billet TD05s onto a GTR as twins and can give some info about them?

This is the one I am talking about - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291181204667&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Thinking about a pair of TD05H-18Gs for a as responsive as possible 450awkw. How would they compare to 2 x HKS 25-30s?

Edited by The Mafia

Has anyone bolted a pair of billet TD05s onto a GTR as twins and can give some info about them?

This is the one I am talking about - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291181204667&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Thinking about a pair of TD05H-18Gs for a as responsive as possible 450awkw. How would they compare to 2 x HKS 25-30s?

Do you mean these

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/291181239204?nav=SEARCH

I to have been considering a set of these or the billet TD06-20g kit for my RB2630

Would love to see a result from them but would most likely try and get the 9 blade rear for the 30

Has anyone bolted a pair of billet TD05s onto a GTR as twins and can give some info about them?

This is the one I am talking about - http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=291181204667&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Thinking about a pair of TD05H-18Gs for a as responsive as possible 450awkw. How would they compare to 2 x HKS 25-30s?

I personally wouldn't go the 18Gs, especially for 450awkw - the 18Gs would be more comparable to GT-RSs. 16G should be the right tool for that job, imho... though I'm not sure that they'd be the "responsive as possible" option so much as good responsive power for not spending megabucks. Don't know of anyone running the Kando boltons so can't really say how they would work in the real world, not sure how good (or not) the housings perform

  • 2 weeks later...

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