Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo

SimonR32

By SimonR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Yeh, I was so, so , so tempted to try the 68HTA. It is meant to flow about the same, perhaps a little more and be more responsive. In the end the decider was if I was going to make a change then make a change. The 15% more flow was the decider. I also thought that once I see how these all work, or dont then I can always hot rod the TD05H with the 68HTA compressor :)

Now to see how well the lil RB20 uses the extra flow

  • Replies 6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Dale FZ1
Dale FZ1

My 30DET is now running TDO6H 25G, budget build with Hybrid manifold and 50mm Turbosmart gate. Turbine is the 11 blade option with 12cm housing. Tighe camshafts correctly dialled. Track car, chasin

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

And r33_racer or whatever also had around that figure too? Maybe it was 380? (struggling to recall)

T04GTR
T04GTR

are theese rubbish china turbos with a badge thats made in japan?

Posted Images

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

Yeh, its only done dyno time so like new. But nobody is going to pay $2200 for it when you get get a "Kando the Great" for $800.

If I had an RB30 i dont think i would run any of these turbs. I think you would get a better result out of the GTX3076, more responive and the billet compressors seem to give you a bit more legs at higher pressure ratios. So probably bag you a more responsive 350rwkws.

What about a T67 on an RB30??? That gives me a 3/4 chub just thinking about it :whistling:

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

What about a T67 on an RB30??? That gives me a 3/4 chub just thinking about it :whistling:

got 2 on the boil :)

Love the Kandos.... just not the int gate ones... they fall in the fail catergory for output when compared to thier ex gate cousins... back to back has shown 20-35rwkw losses :down:

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

Yeh, its only done dyno time so like new. But nobody is going to pay $2200 for it when you get get a "Kando the Great" for $800.

If I had an RB30 i dont think i would run any of these turbs. I think you would get a better result out of the GTX3076, more responive and the billet compressors seem to give you a bit more legs at higher pressure ratios. So probably bag you a more responsive 350rwkws.

Yeah very true Roy, it is pretty amazing value for money. The problem with the GTX turbo's is the price. That is a major turn off. But maybe I should do a little further research into them.

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

One issue I had with the T518Z Kando I used was the IWG path and turbine inlet path design..

There was actually a hard edge in the flow path, I have drawn a diagram to show what it was like:

post-43588-0-48292300-1327465056_thumb.jpg

Note that the unshaded area was not curved or shaped in any aerodynamic way, it was simply a hard edge in the flow path.

urtwhistle Proficient

urtwhistle

Posted
Posted

got 2 on the boil :)

Love the Kandos.... just not the int gate ones... they fall in the fail catergory for output when compared to thier ex gate cousins... back to back has shown 20-35rwkw losses :down:

Hey Trent, you wouldn't be able to post a dyno print would you? showing the boost response preferably. I don't care if there a kando or a Trust version. what would be your personal preference on a street driven Rb30 with a goal of upto 350RWKW? T67-25G, TD06H-25G, TD07S-25G or any other affordable config.

regards

Chris

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Hey Trent, you wouldn't be able to post a dyno print would you? showing the boost response preferably. I don't care if there a kando or a Trust version. what would be your personal preference on a street driven Rb30 with a goal of upto 350RWKW? T67-25G, TD06H-25G, TD07S-25G or any other affordable config.

regards

Chris

this is a good example of a td06h-25g 10cm (will post graph fri or sat when i get to the shop)

over 400rwkw and 4200rpm it reaches it target boost threshhold of 24-25psi

i would go 12cm trust version on a rb30d

post-34927-0-43179800-1327472931_thumb.jpg

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

If Kando starts making 'proper' internal gated versions of their turbos (with a re-designed wastegate flow path) that work, with a Skyline 6-bolt dump flange, nobody would buy Hypergears or even Garrets anymore.

At the price these Kandos are going, they are just unbeatable. Somebody please push Eiji to do a few design changes to make the above turbo..Do Eeet.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

this is a good example of a td06h-25g 10cm (will post graph fri or sat when i get to the shop)

over 400rwkw and 4200rpm it reaches it target boost threshhold of 24-25psi

i would go 12cm trust version on a rb30d

There has to be more to the story?!?!? What fuel and what capacity and mods does the SR20 have? And whilst it boosts 24psi at 4,200rpm what power is it actually making at 4,200rpm. On a well sorted RB25 with thicker headgasket, Greddy inlet, Tomei cams and complete TD06SH-25G setup...

At 8,000 rpm it has 308 rwkw

At 7,000 rpm it has 320 rwkw

At 6,000 rpm it has 296 rwkw

At 5,000 rpm it has 230 rwkw

At 4,000 rpm it has 114 rwkw

That was on a dyno that read about 20-25rwkws lower then other dynos it went on and was a pretty conservative ignition map on 98 tune. No doubt it could be improved but massive divide between 360rwkws and 400rwkws out of a 25G compressor?!?!?!

I have a soft spot for the TD/Mitsu range of turbos. But in cases where people are putting turbos on built motors with external gates etc then what is an extra $1000 on a Garret or other turbo IF it gives you an extra 40rwkws at 4,000rpm and matches the top end? Bang for buck its up there...but personally I would bin my Trustck turbo if I could find a sharper tool in the shed :)

rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

rondofj, i choose you!!!!!!!

Pokemon_I_Choose_You_by_RazorRed.jpg

the email is a few pages back, get cracking

Dont choose me mate, you have far more experience/knowledge on turbos than I do,.. but I might just send him an email sometime soon...

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

If my twin setup sells from my GTR im going single kando...

Which one though? Need response but over 450hp at wheels.

Current -9's have 400hp 19psi safely.

There is only one answer -_- join Simon on teh epic side

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      SAUNSW - Cruise - Albion Park Aviation Museum - 9th August

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • PranK
      Rusty roof repair

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...