Jump to content
SAU Community

Kando Dynamics Turbo


SimonR32

Recommended Posts

Hurry up an do it, so I can see your results so I can do it with mine lol

Edit - I should be doing mine next year, but will keep the boost down to save the standard auto.

I'm still thinking the Kando Td06-20g Will suit me better as full boost at 4500 is a little laggy through the auto imo

they also make a TD06H...

these all come with the 10cm rear

KINUGAWA TD06H -20G Turbocharger

Compressor wheel: 52.5 / 68 mm

Turbine Wheel: 58.8 / 67 mm

KINUGAWA T67-25G Turbocharger with T3 Flange

Comp. Whee: 60.2/78mm (25G)

Turbine Wheel: 54 / 61 mm (11 Blades)

KINUGAWA TD06SL2 -20G Turbocharger

Compressor wheel: 52.5 / 68 mm

Turbine Wheel: 54.1 / 61 mm

how would the td06h compare to the td06l2?

Edited by battery
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting thing is a GTX3071R flows 10% more than a GT3076R at most boost levels you'd run on an RB25 - imagine one of those on an ethanol blend on an RB25.... expensive, but I can't think of a combination with a fatter streetable power delivery potential.

Without a doubt! All signs point to it being a awesome turbo... They were released only a few days after I purchased my T67 :(

Still as you said fairly expensive!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought Nytsky made 427rwkw on E85 from a GT35R

Yeah not sure why some people seem to struggle with the GT3582Rs in Oz, one of my mates did 10.6 and had cracked 130mph in a full weight R33 GTS25t running 20psi on BP98 with a GT35R with less than perfect runs - to avoid dyno comparisons its probably worth observing that it has to surely be making a reasonable amount of power?

Really hoping the same car will be tuned on E85 with a PT6765 soon...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My plan was to buy the TD06-L2 and later use my TD07S comp housing and wheel to make a T67, that plan went to shit when some flamin mongrel stole the TD07 :(

Still might do it (the L2) and later buy the billet 25G comp wheel and a port shrouded comp cover to make the T67-25G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

385rwkws on pump with a standard cammed/head Rb25 and GT35R? that would have to be the most insane result Ive ever seen, hub dyno or not

Guilt-toy did 370rwkw or so on 20psi with a GT35

3ltr admittadly but it was a stock 25 head.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yOU MIGHT BE RIGHT aSH, i KNEW gUILT-TOY DID 370ODD ON e85 BUT CANT REMEMBER WHAT HE DID ON pulp

Edit - f**k you CAPS LOCK!!!! flamin mongrel!

Edited by zebra
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im trying to remember but i think he made very close to his E85 power on PULP, because I remember him saying that the standard cams were holding him back once he switched over.

Either way both his and R33_racers were Rb30s which will help power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I actually love GT3076R's! The cost put me off because it would have been at least a extra $1200ish cost over the top of this turbo and I'm jewish

So I figured saving a lot of money, loosing a few hundred rpm of response and gaining some top end was worth it :)

Actually as you can see from my graph if we revved the old girl to 8500 it would probably come close to 550hp where the 3076R with cams was already starting to fall over.

yeah they will happily make power to 9000rpm on your setup :)

Remember the dyno dymanics stuff always looks more responsive as the extra weight of the rollers adds extra load, we just spent a fair amount of time liaising with another shop and found the normal baseline run we do of 9sec from say 1500-7000 has less low end load applied. So its more equivalent to 12-13 seconds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would like to see someone try the Kando T67 with one of the billet wheels I linked up earlier. should bring boost on earlier and carry on in the top end a little more

we did some comparos (billet vs std)with the T88-gk years ago as they originally came with billet compressor wheels, before tooling was finished for the normal comp wheels. There was minimal difference except for production cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
    • Easiest way to know is to break out the multimeter and measure it when cold, then measure all the resistances again once it gets hot enough to misfire. Both the original ignitor and the J Replace version. Factory service manual will have the spec for the terminal measurements.
×
×
  • Create New...