Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just got my car dynoed after making adjustments that I thought were holding it back.

Mods, injectors, fuel pump, 256/264cams, trust plenum, hybrid cooler, power fc with boost control, 40mm ext gate, custom manifold, K&N pod with CAI and enclosed box and a HKS 1.6mm metal head gasket to drop CR to 8.6:1, adj HKS exh cam gear

plus driveline and sus mods but they dont really pertain here

the car made 321rwkw at 22psi, 1.2bar at 4000rpm. whilst the boost comes on a bit savage, it is easy to control with the throttle, so loss of traction is an option.

it has around 5psi at 3000rpm, and around 10 at 3500, then turbo starts pulling really hard.

after retarding by 4 deg on exhaust, I picked up around 15kw in the mid range with no loss in power anywhere else.

due to some fantastic tuning by Shaun of Boost Worx here in adeliade, off boost driveability is pretty awesome. The car just wants to go:)

comparing to the dyno of my car with stock turbo and 200rwkw, at 80kph I now have around 15kw less, at 100kph, they are even, then it just gets better for the new turbo

Big thanks too, to James of D1 Garage, for all his advice and help getting parts.

final3037.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34855-hks-3037-tuning-results/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 125
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks guys

Robo's yep standard internals

DVS33T, I think there is a bit more to be had from the 3040, best to keep an eye on B-man's results, and you will be able to tell

B-man, yeah they are killer turbos. I am not sure if the way it comes on boost is a difference between the turbos, quite possibly, but also it may make a difference that I have stock internals, AF ratios are appropriately rich around there (mid 11s) and the timing is somewhat conservative - just to be on the safe side.

Clint32, not sure, I really didnt want to go any further, cos I am chicken, and dont want to rebuild. Didnt a top secret GTR make around 700kw with two of these? But then again, they would have had porting, matchported bits, bigger cams, 2.8L bottom end etc. Boost comes in alot earlier, and top end seems to be breathing better with the upgrades (compare the dyno on whatsisnames rebuild thread in the SA section). Driveability is greatly inproved - chalk and cheese. I am not sure how it will go at 1.8, but it did spike to 1.89 this arvo, and lit up the tyres at 120ks (using 2 way diff), in a controlled environment of course:)

Benm, it really isnt too bad on tyres, as long as you keep away from WOT, but you can regulate the boost very easily with the right foot

RNS11Z, it goes funny cos the biggest wastegate spring I could get my hands on is rated at 0.72bar, and I am running 1.6bar - the poor old solenoid has a bit of trouble keeping the boost nice and smooth up there as far as I can work out. It dips as the wastegate opens, then goes up and down as the boost fluctuates a little, around 1-2 lbs. I could probably spend more money getting another spring made, and redynoing, but I am quite happy the way it is. Besides, this gives me the option of turning the boost down for a lazy 225oddkw at 12lbs, for when the wife is driving:)

Hi Steve, great result, well over 500 bhp. A couple of questions..

What brand of wastegate?

Why did you stop the runs at 6,600 rpm?

Since the dyno was not in Shootout mode, what sort of day was it temp and humidity wise?

How is the PFC boost control kit handling the 1.5 bar?

What diameter exhaust?

What fuel?

What's next on your list?

If you could wind the clock back, would you do anything different?

I would certainly keep looking for a stronger wastegate spring, and I don't think it would need tuning if you just use it to smooth out the boost. If you use it to increase the total boost, that's a different story.

Top result regardless, just enjoy driving it. I hate seeing a good car sit in the garage.

Jeebus cripes that's impressive! I wouldn't give a rat's that it's 11:1 AFR either, with that kind of power it's better to be safe. You're at the level where you don't need to wring every last kw out of the engine, except maybe in the low-end. You just need to keep it smooth and safe enough for the stock internals to handle up top.

thanks for the kind words everybody.

Simonster, dont worry, its well worth the wait, my turbo sat in a cupboard since feb last year, just getting where I want now

geraldjohn, sorry, I dont have a digi camera at the moment

Inasnt, I am pretty sure the head gasket is helping, a nice tune doesnt hurt either

sydneykid, its using a HKS 40mm standard wastegate with a 10psi spring. I would have gone a 1bar spring, but a guy picked one up in japan, and it was the heaviest available at the time. The spring that came out was 7lb. Might have to see if I can get a spring made to fit unfortuneately.

The runs didnt stop until 7000rpm. I think the diff may be slightly different to stock ratio, as when it went in (nismo 2way) there was a noticeable increase in torque off boost, purely seat of the pants though - can't think of any other way to explain the difference. I will have to check it out.

I am not sure of the humidity, temp was around 30deg at 1130am (in the dyno booth), the runs above were done around 1pm.

the boost controller seems to be fine - no noticable problems on the dyno. Spiked to 1.89bar in 3rd on the road, so I dropped the duty cycle (alot) and seems fine now. I think the top end of the curve will smooth out once it finishes learning how to hold the boost - I could be wrong, but it doenst have a noticeable effect.

Exhaust is 3" stainless ceramic coated and heat wrapped dump, wastegate integrates just before the bend where the dump angles toward the back of the car, so almost at the cat. From there it is a 90mm HKS super dragger.

fuel was just straight pump BP98

Not much more on the list engine wise, but I am still going to get rear camber arms, hicas lock kit, and R rated rubber, and I will try and get a 1bar spring.

Things I would have done differently, thats a bit hard. I think I would have used a different manifold, 3/2/1 design rather than tuned lenght - but that is one I will never know 100% for sure whether or not it will make much difference, as I am not about to go to all the added expense of buying the manifold and getting all the pipework remade, as I am very happy with the result I have now.

Other than that, maybe a light port/polish and match the manifold and plenum, thats about it really.

dont worry about the car not being driven, its my daily driver.

JimX, its actually quite good bottom end. Not much worse than stock turbo when I was putting down 200rwkw. this turbo still makes a few lbs boost at low (under 3000rpm) engine speeds with light throttle, the car feels like it wants to go all the time - not doughy at all bottom end.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...