Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How can that be Aaron? I've driven one with a Kakimoto & it was loud. What did you have on before? (sorry, it's probably listed 5 pages ago, just don't want to go looking).

lol kakimoto R? or N1 hypermega or something ?

Its a shit load quieter than before, and its brand new so it looks like its only going to get quieter as the gunk builds up.

it was a custom job before. which could explain why is was loud.. flowed 230kw though..

I'm pretty sure it looked a bit like this...post-61153-0-50538100-1300106234_thumb.jpg lol?

Sorry Aaron, I saw this the other day, & I was just reminded of it. No hate

hahahahha lol none taken. it looks better now, thats for sure.

The kakimoto R has this random 4.5 inch tip cover thats spot welded on.. wasn't happy with it. so me and scott attacked the spot welds with a drill and grinder, and polished the spots to invisible. we remoulded some of the pipe so the muffler sits abit higher off the ground.

ill take some pictures tonight, and hopefully a vid for sound.

IMO - it looks WAY better without the random tip.

Had 3 tiny pin dents removed from the Stagea by a PDR guy who just fixed $6000 of hail damage to our daily. Sooo bloody obvious on a Black car...

Total cost? $60.:worship:

Result; perfect job, one happy customer!

Just got back from registering the car... had to do an ID check, pay for new plates, 3 months rego and transfer of rego. Total wait time = 90 minutes. Total of reaming = $1100. Thanks SA Department of Transport :rant:

Just got back from registering the car... had to do an ID check, pay for new plates, 3 months rego and transfer of rego. Total wait time = 90 minutes. Total of reaming = $1100. Thanks SA Department of Transport :rant:

mak sure you cash in your nsw rego, get some cash back

mak sure you cash in your nsw rego, get some cash back

Thats the plan, except looking at the requirements I think I actually need the signatures of every person, living or dead, who built my car!

Fashioned a bespoke knob from aluminium bar. Turned it up on a poor mans' lathe (bench drill).

Has a nice solid feel & looks a lot better than a missing knob.

post-76144-0-15197800-1300190990_thumb.jpg

Fashioned a bespoke knob from aluminium bar. Turned it up on a poor mans' lathe (bench drill).

Has a nice solid feel & looks a lot better than a missing knob.

post-76144-0-15197800-1300190990_thumb.jpg

Not too shabby at all :thumbsup:

Fashioned a bespoke knob from aluminium bar. Turned it up on a poor mans' lathe (bench drill).

Has a nice solid feel & looks a lot better than a missing knob.

post-76144-0-15197800-1300190990_thumb.jpg

looks great!

well heres the only pic i took of the exhaust

Kakimoto R and pulled off the almost 5" tip tacked on.

cleans up well.

post-77654-0-37679200-1300219873_thumb.jpg

THAT looks great.

Tip is way big enough. Also like the debadged look on your black car. Probably a better effect than it would be on a silver or white car IMO.

I have a Kaki as well and should take the big tip off mine, does it make it quieter with the monster tip off? Just ordered some HPX pads from GSL for the Stag as well. Is there a FAST system for Subaru's? I need to order some HPX for my sister in law but the liberty model she's got has a million different pads used in them.

Fashioned a bespoke knob from aluminium bar. Turned it up on a poor mans' lathe (bench drill).

Has a nice solid feel & looks a lot better than a missing knob.

post-76144-0-15197800-1300190990_thumb.jpg

i have a spare that i found under the carpet in my car :)

THAT looks great.

Tip is way big enough. Also like the debadged look on your black car. Probably a better effect than it would be on a silver or white car IMO.

thanks man! yeh i've never liked badges, its always my first mod.. just wasnt sure about the nissan badge..

I have a Kaki as well and should take the big tip off mine, does it make it quieter with the monster tip off? Just ordered some HPX pads from GSL for the Stag as well. Is there a FAST system for Subaru's? I need to order some HPX for my sister in law but the liberty model she's got has a million different pads used in them.

its doesnt make any difference to sound I wouldnt think. Mine being straight through from the turbo its not AS loud as it was before.. i kind of like the deep not it has...but it looks much better without the big tip IMO. i put the vinyl that came with it on the tip. looks tough.. ill take another pic tonight.

Gee thanks Iain. That was information I could have done with a week ago!

Well I suppose I have something a bit unique now.

Speaking of unique, did you see my post on the stealth boost gauge on m35stagea.info? BTW I can't get on right now. Could just be the internet where I'm am right now though.

I thought you had to transfer within 14 days?

I thought this too, until I went to the RTA. Because I've got till the end of the month, they told me to wait it out and then get the blue slip to put it under NSW rego. No fines apply for exceeding 14 days in this case.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...