Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fitted nice white LEDs to cabin lights (standard) plus white LED strips to footwells both front & back.

Wired them to come on with door open (not running all the time) which gives a nice ambience when you first hop in.

You have to choose colour, brightness and method of operation carefully. It can be a fine line sometimes between classy and RICER :laugh: .

i was thinking of putting in red strips in the footwells (match the stock dials and doesn't affect night vision)

but i couldn't be bothered with the wiring (not the biggest fan of wiring)

which strips did you go with?

What catch cans are M35 owners running, and where are you mounting them?

I was looking at a nice Greddy one on eBay for around $100, looked like it should fit up against the battery enclosure?

Excuse what may seem like a dumb question but why do you run two catch cans? I understand the one to go between the intake and cam cover breather, I had one on my S14, but what's the other for?

Excuse what may seem like a dumb question but why do you run two catch cans? I understand the one to go between the intake and cam cover breather, I had one on my S14, but what's the other for?

Ones to stop oil going from the PCV into the intake and the other is to stop the breathers on the rocker's throwing oil through the FMIC.

Watch what size you get as there is sweet f#$k all room to fit em in.

Couple of pic's for locations.....these are from Cam's car.

post-37023-0-78879200-1303161489_thumb.jpg

post-37023-0-95091200-1303161553_thumb.jpg

post-37023-0-35605300-1303161681_thumb.png

Edited by Jetwreck

i was thinking of putting in red strips in the footwells (match the stock dials and doesn't affect night vision)

but i couldn't be bothered with the wiring (not the biggest fan of wiring)

which strips did you go with?

I don't know anyonewho likes wiring - just a means to an end I suppose :)

I got these ones off Flea-bay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270721573963&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

But don't believe the price as that has been changed. I paid $20 for 6 strips, including postage. I also put 2 in the back (inset into the grab handles) that also work when interior light is on.

Red strips would look pretty cool, especially if they match other lights. My white ones are just to aid getting in/out or finding stuff in the back, not to be all all the time. I am going with different ambient lighting for night driving but I've not finished deciding on colour or location yet.

Ones to stop oil going from the PCV into the intake and the other is to stop the breathers on the rocker's throwing oil through the FMIC.

Watch what size you get as there is sweet f#$k all room to fit em in.

Couple of pic's for locations.....these are from Cam's car.

That's really strange. :/

PCV is short for? I'm just trying to get my head around this...

Why would they run what seems to be two sepparate breathers for the engine...

Do both put oil back through the intake/cooler?

Does any one have any pic of the locations where the catch cat lines go to, not the catch can location.

Cheers.

That's really strange. :/

PCV is short for? I'm just trying to get my head around this...

Why would they run what seems to be two sepparate breathers for the engine...

Do both put oil back through the intake/cooler?

Does any one have any pic of the locations where the catch cat lines go to, not the catch can location.

Cheers.

bit of a messy engine bay but it show's the PCV side....the rocker locations are a little harder to shoot but it runs into the back of the suction pipe.

post-37023-0-62594600-1303163573_thumb.png

Edited by Jetwreck

I guess the question which hasn't been asked is:

How much oil do your catch cans collect?

Do you drain them back to the sump?

At oil change as I only have the PVC one atm probably about 100ml's....my motor only has 47,000km's on it too!.....the other side is probably about the same!

An no I don't drain em back into the sump....I just collect and clean at service interval's.

I guess the question which hasn't been asked is:

How much oil do your catch cans collect?

Do you drain them back to the sump?

No, You drain it each time you do an oil change and I usually have around 1 - 1.5 inches of oil collected in the catch can.

The breather on the other bank sits directly below the intake resonator pipe that is in the upper right corner (black pipe) of Jetwrecks photo. This breather is quite a large diameter pipe which makes it a little tricky to match up to a smaller size catch can.

Ones to stop oil going from the PCV into the intake and the other is to stop the breathers on the rocker's throwing oil through the FMIC.

Watch what size you get as there is sweet f#$k all room to fit em in.

Couple of pic's for locations.....these are from Cam's car.

Actually, I don't have the one in the battery compartment.

I found that it didn't catch anything and I still have not yet installed the larger one under the airbox :blush:

No, You drain it each time you do an oil change and I usually have around 1 - 1.5 inches of oil collected in the catch can.

Yep, about the same as mine, although I drain about 25mm every 10,000kms (my service intervals).

Doesn't seem to make much difference how "experienced" your engine is either...

Cool. Thanks for the responses!

Means I'm not going to worry about it :whistling:

Pull apart your intake and have a look. Mine was full of gunk when I looked the other day, so I'm definitely going to. Just means I'll have to measure up and make sure I can fit it first.

Edited by bigkevracer

I was amazed how oily my intercooler was and I knew it wasnt working as well covered in oil. The breather catch can doesnt seem to catch much oil though, but heaps of water and ethanol vapour. The pcv definitely dumps oil down the middle two plenum runners, I have about the same 100ml going in each change, more in winter with the water condensate. I have fitted a ball valve on each to drain into the oil tray when doing the change.

well today i packed the stagea down with 2 eskys, a few casrtons of beer, a bunch of kids toys and my boat.

and the boat is packed down with all the ski gear, 140 litres of fuel, tents and camping crap.

time for a relaxing weekend wakeboarding at a lake just outside of Mildura :thumbsup:

DSC01390.jpg

well today i packed the stagea down with 2 eskys, a few casrtons of beer, a bunch of kids toys and my boat.

and the boat is packed down with all the ski gear, 140 litres of fuel, tents and camping crap.

time for a relaxing weekend wakeboarding at a lake just outside of Mildura :thumbsup:

DSC01390.jpg

Nice boat's!!!! :P

Have a great one....what size motor you got on the boat?

Edited by Jetwreck

well today i packed the stagea down with 2 eskys, a few casrtons of beer, a bunch of kids toys and my boat.

and the boat is packed down with all the ski gear, 140 litres of fuel, tents and camping crap.

time for a relaxing weekend wakeboarding at a lake just outside of Mildura :thumbsup:

mmm... Stag looks great, sounds like an awesome weekend.

Colour me green :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...