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with that hi-res factory screen, blu-rays will look great :P

just remember if you want to utilise your factory screen, your head unit needs to be able to output NTSC. should have no problems with that tho

I know, but if i want to watch a movie i only have on bluray, id be happy with the factory screen!

Brad told me about the ntsc issue, thats the only thing im worried about with the clarion but should be ok. I hope!

Installed wideband controller & extended display behind custom perspex face in vent. Logs heaps of stuff, including G-forces. Could be interesting to do before & after swaybar install.

post-76144-0-71872800-1306492877_thumb.jpg

That looks really, really good! That would look pretty factory to prying eyes, which is what I love the most about it.

Installed wideband controller & extended display behind custom perspex face in vent. Logs heaps of stuff, including G-forces. Could be interesting to do before & after swaybar install.

post-76144-0-71872800-1306492877_thumb.jpg

That does look good. What brand is it?

Mine sticks out like a sore thumb :ermm:

That looks really, really good! That would look pretty factory to prying eyes, which is what I love the most about it.

Thanks, that's what I like about it too. I spend lots of time searching/reading to try to find the product right for me. Keeping gauges hidden or integrated as much as possible is a pet project of mine. I've kept the factory vent so it can be returned to normal in a matter of minutes if I was to sell & new owner didn't like it. Initially I was going to cut out a section of the vent but couldn't work out how to do it neatly enough. I softened the perspex in the oven & curved it slightly to fit the shape of the dash then masked where the display would show through & painted the rest matt black. It's almost un-noticeable when car is off/locked up.

That does look good. What brand is it?

Mine sticks out like a sore thumb :ermm:

It's from 14point7.com & I bought the new SLC DIY2 because I like to DIY everything if possible (just my thing :rolleyes: ) & in this case all you need to finish is the connectors on the cables as the unit is complete, ie no components to solder. But in hindsight I should have bought the full spec unit because it has a built in memory to store data without having to have a laptop connected when driving. The main reasons I went this way are:

1) The display could be remote mounted - I bought some connectors & ribbon cable from Jaycar for <$5

2) It logs AFR, RPM, Boost (I bought an extra sensor) & either 2 x G-force readings from built in accelerometers or one/both can be changed to 0-5V analog inputs, so I'm logging throttle & AFM. It also records battery voltage & O2 sensor temperature by default. Heaps of extra sensors are available to purchase.

3) It has a simulated narrowband output. I cut the O2 sensor wire at the ECU & fed this output inplace of it. Now I can make overall changes to the AFR, ie leaner, & finetune other load points with a simple interceptor to enrich mixtures where required. My belief is, & it is untested as yet, that this setup won't give me the ignition timing issues to the same extent as using an interceptor alone.

DIY Rocks.

I arranged for some gutter rash along my LHS wheels today driving to work. Was going at speed limit, but thought I would corner at the speed limit too. Clipped a gutter getting the apex. Usually the 1600 would just lift a wheel, but this was a little bit more 'bangy'. Only a little bit of rash :blush:

DIY Rocks.

I arranged for some gutter rash along my LHS wheels today driving to work. Was going at speed limit, but thought I would corner at the speed limit too. Clipped a gutter getting the apex. Usually the 1600 would just lift a wheel, but this was a little bit more 'bangy'. Only a little bit of rash :blush:

Not the AXIS rims!pinch.gif

Cornering at (or above) the speed limit is possible; see my sig :whistling:

If you're quick, I may be able to help you...

Not the AXIS rims!pinch.gif

Cornering at (or above) the speed limit is possible; see my sig :whistling:

If you're quick, I may be able to help you...

Yes the Axis rims! (Damn it!)

I think I already have updated sway bars fitted from Japan. The car sits nice and flat.

Pity the owner doesn't realise how PHAT the M35 is... :happy:

Yes the Axis rims! (Damn it!)

I think I already have updated sway bars fitted from Japan. The car sits nice and flat.

Pity the owner doesn't realise how PHAT the M35 is... :happy:

If they're a goldy powdercoat, then yes. Freeway Dolphins.

Thanks, that's what I like about it too. I spend lots of time searching/reading to try to find the product right for me. Keeping gauges hidden or integrated as much as possible is a pet project of mine. I've kept the factory vent so it can be returned to normal in a matter of minutes if I was to sell & new owner didn't like it. Initially I was going to cut out a section of the vent but couldn't work out how to do it neatly enough. I softened the perspex in the oven & curved it slightly to fit the shape of the dash then masked where the display would show through & painted the rest matt black. It's almost un-noticeable when car is off/locked up.

It's from 14point7.com & I bought the new SLC DIY2 because I like to DIY everything if possible (just my thing :rolleyes: ) & in this case all you need to finish is the connectors on the cables as the unit is complete, ie no components to solder. But in hindsight I should have bought the full spec unit because it has a built in memory to store data without having to have a laptop connected when driving. The main reasons I went this way are:

1) The display could be remote mounted - I bought some connectors & ribbon cable from Jaycar for <$5

2) It logs AFR, RPM, Boost (I bought an extra sensor) & either 2 x G-force readings from built in accelerometers or one/both can be changed to 0-5V analog inputs, so I'm logging throttle & AFM. It also records battery voltage & O2 sensor temperature by default. Heaps of extra sensors are available to purchase.

3) It has a simulated narrowband output. I cut the O2 sensor wire at the ECU & fed this output inplace of it. Now I can make overall changes to the AFR, ie leaner, & finetune other load points with a simple interceptor to enrich mixtures where required. My belief is, & it is untested as yet, that this setup won't give me the ignition timing issues to the same extent as using an interceptor alone.

i've been thinking about getting one of those for ages now

i was going to get the original diy one last year but never got around to it, then they brought out the diy2 so i was thinking of getting that but then i thought that i would have too many gauges and things in the car

maybe i'll still get one and put it in any way

wanna do a writeup?

wanna do a writeup?

I might do one once I sort out some niggly things. For instance, my unit doesn't recognise the RPM input I'm feeding it, but I can get a reading on my DMM on the frequency setting. I've only just started playing with it so maybe will have it going properly in a few days.

I might do one once I sort out some niggly things. For instance, my unit doesn't recognise the RPM input I'm feeding it, but I can get a reading on my DMM on the frequency setting. I've only just started playing with it so maybe will have it going properly in a few days.

i like the look of their fuel adjuster too

i'm thinking that plus the wideband could let me get some better fuel consumption and a bit more power

My Greddy catch can turned up today! :D

Going to be a big weekend for the Stag. Hopefully will fit the sway bars, adjustable rear toe arms, plenum spacer and catch can.

Wait and see when Brad is available to give me a hand fitting the new stereo, and hopefully HDTV tuner. Fingers crossed the stereo will work with the NTSC screen!

Once the catch can is in, have to organise the HDI intercooler finally. Held off until I had the catch can, because I didn't want to immediately fill it with poo!

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