Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haven't checked (battery) actually, didn't even occur to me. Will look into it. Thanks :thumbsup:

Didn't you read my first reply to your alarm prob thread?

I had to replace the battery in my M35 a couple of weeks ago ($130 I think). The one that came out of it wasn't the original one from manufacture, but probably the 2nd according to the date. So a new battery every 4-5 years isn't too bad considering all the electronics on board.

Yeah you mentioned it, but I'd had no other reason to suspect battery. No obvious battery problems.

I'll grab the battery tester and check it, but I can't see it being the cause.

It's just gone off AGAIN so I've locked it and disconnected the battery.

Do these things have a backup battery? Is it possible that could be the problem?

Most factory alarms don't have back up batteries check the bonnett switich very common unplug the switich and test it over a few days if thet does not fix it you said there was sensors on the dash unplug them and see how that goes for a few days

Fitted my new steering wheel this arvo. Looks nice!

Not as hard as I expected; was stressing about the Airbag a little.

Same factory wheel as came out (just better condition), right? How long did it take you & did you need special tools - like those star head security doo dads?

Same factory wheel as came out (just better condition), right? How long did it take you & did you need special tools - like those star head security doo dads?

Yeah, mine had fairly bad wear on the RHS through the paint down to raw leather.

About 20 mins; Disconnect both battery terminals with interior light on to discharge electrical system.

Pop the two small covers off the lower quadrants between steering spokes.

Undo the 2 T30 security screws and remove.

Gently pull airbag module free, and unhook cable from tab in centre of steering wheel boss.

On the back of the airbag, unclip the tabs on the side of the 90deg yellow plug. Pull tab away from plug slightly. This will allow the Airbag cable to come free.

Release plug/s for horn/wheel controls.

Put keys in ignition to release steering lock. This will stop you from damaging locking mechanism when you undo the mounting nut.

Ensure the steering wheel is correctly centred. THIS IS CRITICAL!

Use a 19mm socket and a breaker bar to undo steering wheel nut. It is tight; so brace the wheel with one hand (or get a friend to assist if you're puny) and turn bar anti-clockwise.

Wind the nut up until it's level with the top of the thread on the steering column. Do not completely remove. (This stops you being hit in the face by a flying steering wheel)

Centre steering wheel again.

Brace knees under steering wheel, pushing up hard; as if you're going to pop it off the taper. (You won't; it's effin' tight)

Use a drift, or a 6" socket extension bar and a decent sized hammer, to hit the steering shaft. Don't club it to death; you'll collapse the column, just give it a decent hit.

Repeat and you'll feel the wheel release from the taper. Only took a couple of firm hits for mine.

Completely remove 19mm nut.

Slide wheel off gently, and it's just the reverse to refit. Don't disturb the clock spring assy behind the wheel if you can avoid it.

If you're not confident with any of the above DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT THIS JOB!!!!

Edited by Daleo

About 20 mins

You've done well to get all that done in 20 mins. LOL at leaving the nut patially on. I remember having to take the steering wheel of our ride-on as a kid. Took the nut all the way off, gave the wheel a big heave & it came off & smacked me in the head soooo hard, doh :wacko:.

20 mins is about right if you havent done it before.

i did mine in under 5. but it was the 3rd time in a row that i did it.

dont rush it, make sure you plug the airbag in properly!!

AFM died tonight on windsor road in the rain. lucky i had a friend to help me push it off the road.

didnt know it was the AFM. it just died and wouldnt start again. it would turn over fine (i did it a lot probably killing my brand new battery), stutter, then die.

big thanks to craig for phone diagnosis!

AFM died tonight on windsor road in the rain. lucky i had a friend to help me push it off the road.

These things seem like consumable parts! It almost feels like if your M35 dies, its your AFM. I dont think I see anything crop up even CLOSE to as frequently. Almost feel like buying a cheapie and throwing it in the cubby hole

These things seem like consumable parts! It almost feels like if your M35 dies, its your AFM. I dont think I see anything crop up even CLOSE to as frequently. Almost feel like buying a cheapie and throwing it in the cubby hole

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

Edited by Daleo

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

AFM Nissan part number is 22680-6N211

It should be the same as used in the 2001-2007 X-trail and the 2000-2005 Pulsar

From memory, I got one @ trade prices for sub $200 ex-melbourne. Best bet for a 'cheap' one would be YAJ but you'll never know the story behind one of those. Could last a week or a life time.

I'm know it's been up before, but what's the P/N, what else is it compatible with, (if anything) and is there a low cost source? As I'm sure Nissan Aust want a bit for one...

I bought a new one from Nissan....FYI there was an updated part number from the original! So if you buy a new one it should last longer!

You've done well to get all that done in 20 mins. LOL at leaving the nut patially on. I remember having to take the steering wheel of our ride-on as a kid. Took the nut all the way off, gave the wheel a big heave & it came off & smacked me in the head soooo hard, doh :wacko:.

Just spotted this; I reckon it took me longer to write down how I did it, and reset all my settings on the bloody stereo afterwards...

Lol @ steering wheel accident! I know of so many people who've done it, probably seems very obvious; post head injury...

Edited by Daleo

I bought a new one from Nissan....FYI there was an updated part number from the original! So if you buy a new one it should last longer!

Was the updated part number the one Dunc quoted? 22680-6N211?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...