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Bit of a long story but my car has gone from the workshop to a tuner who has installed the G4 Link and is going to tune it tomorrow. He is a top tuner and has built a seven second R32 GTR

but he was complaining that he was having to take his M35 Stagea to NZ's most famous GTR tuner because he has the software to crack the ecu but its all in Japanese. I will try to find out more and keep you informed but it could be good news for Kiwi V35 and M35 owners. Soichi used to work for Nissan and travels back to Japan regularly so I don't know how he came by the software and whether he will onsell it (maybe to someone like Toshi). Will let you know.

Good weekend for the Stag...

New front rotors arrived, courtesy of my new friends at DBA. DBA 4000 series rotors with the new Clubspec T3 slotting:

post-34363-0-83621000-1314527394_thumb.jpg

Not going in until the BCs arrive, probably just before the SA cruise :thumbsup:

And no more pirate spec, got one of my new spot lights in:

post-34363-0-43933600-1314527599_thumb.jpg

Thanks to Simon Michelmore for giving me a hand working out the mounts for it. Ended up clearing all the broken glass out, and drilling into the old plastic mount to screw into the standard Narva bolt holes. Worked ok, not ideal. You can also see in the above photo that there's a fair gap around the light, so now I'm thinking maybe a set of squid rings to fill the gap?

Has transformed the front end:

post-34363-0-31741200-1314527706_thumb.jpg

Before I do the other one, I might move the light forward slightly so I can angle it up a bit. Also have to find a better spot to mount the HID ballasts.

Anyone happen to have a broken fog light I could grab? I need to break the light to make my mounting setup work, and rather work with an already broken one if possible?

Oh, and I stuffed up and turned the car to 'ON' (without firing) with the AFM disconnected... so guess who has to remove the check engine light this week? >_<

Good weekend for the Stag...

Oh, and I stuffed up and turned the car to 'ON' (without firing) with the AFM disconnected... so guess who has to remove the check engine light this week? pinch.gif

Why do you have to remove the check light? Can't you just reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery?

Well I've seen the complicated procedure on here, but to be honest last time disconnecting the battery worked. Won't be too hard either way, plenty of threads on here.

Fair enough then, I thought it was either full reset, or just wait for the ECU to see the AFM enough time to reset itself.:blush:

Really?

If its going to reset itself i cbf playing with it!

Not a problem with the help....I've run out of things to do on my car and yours is the closest to me! :P

On other news I got my head pretty much around your HKS Kit....hopefully I will get a good nights sleep tonight now.

I have half a HKS turbo kit here, it looks like my V band setup has much better flow, how do they expect the wastegate gasses to flow through that u turn on the adapter mate?

I got my Brembos on, the caliper had about 10mm of clearance from the 17's. It looks great with the braided lines but these are a pain to bleed, I drove down some corrugated dirt roads to try and get all the air bubbles to the top and re-bled but they still feel spongy. Any ideas?

Got a bit done today; New Plugs fitted, new passengers side rocker cover gasket, and an oil & fiter change. A little oil in the rear plug recesses on the passengers side; but not too bad.

Also slipped some hardened washers under the Plenum bolts, as the Cap Heads had abraded the alloy a little.

Recieved my pack of 8mm rivet clips from Hong Kong and replaced a bunch of cracked trim clips.

Time to look at my Brake Upgrade again I think...

I got my Brembos on, the caliper had about 10mm of clearance from the 17's. It looks great with the braided lines but these are a pain to bleed, I drove down some corrugated dirt roads to try and get all the air bubbles to the top and re-bled but they still feel spongy. Any ideas?

hey this sounds familiar....:whistling:

We bled mine twice right? Or was it 3 times?

I just drove em for a while and they firmed up...

Too familiar, the rears were fine but the fronts were re- kitted, as such they were empty. I think the pistons hold a little air around them perhaps? I didn't let the master cylinder empty at any point...

When I got my Stagea, the aftermarket front bumper was cracked badly and generally in poor condition. Over the weekend finally finished painting up a stock RS4 front bumper and slapped it on this evening. Didn't make it glossy enough, but still much better than the cracked bumper.

Time to look at my Brake Upgrade again I think...

What a week full of brake upgrades!

Very happy with mine. What are you planning on doing Dale?

Edited by PN-Mad

fitted my 7 watt cree led reverse lights today.i cant belive how bright they are! on the box it says dont look at light within 1.5 meters what a load of shit......more like 5 meters!

fitted my 7 watt cree led reverse lights today.i cant belive how bright they are! on the box it says dont look at light within 1.5 meters what a load of shit......more like 5 meters!

Dude share the link. Me want!!!

you have to mod your lights at the back of them abit and also cut the plugs of and join the wires to the led itself but its very easy.i got them of ebay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160607562766?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Dude share the link. Me want!!!

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    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
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