Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had a 70% (?) tune done on Saturday.

No a full tune as we had fuel failure, either filter or pump :(

On the plus side, no more "boost/fuel/air flow/whatever you wanna call it" cut and a different throttle feel.

Throttle is a bit soggier at the moment, but at least I know it can definitely be modified :whistling:

Good stuff matethumbsup.gif

Looking forward to hearing the end result! Hope all goes well.

Deatschwerks 600cc, about $100 each when shipping is added on.

Wow, not cheap. I could have gotten you ID 1000's for that mate. Do these have the stock denso plug though? Im guessing thats why you bought them?

Gave the car an oil and filter change..

Whilst there also installed with the help of Craig (or should I say I helped him) a replacement actuator with spring tension..

This is a great mod... :)

Had to turn the boost down as was holding 20psi to red line.

The improvement is very noticeable with the motor being less peaky and drives much more linear from a stop to the top end of the rev range. :banana:

Grab a Nissan genuine filter and I use a 10w-40 or 5w-40 oil, the brand is up to your liking as this question starts world war 3 on forums, along with asking the frequency of changes.

Too true. The above is the general concensus, you want a minimum Group IV oil. I go for Motul 300v and Im fine with Ryco filters (445 I think is the specific model/size)

I've always found Ryco filters overpriced for average quality. I've got a Nismo filter on at the moment, which seems fine, and about to change it for a HKS one when I do my oil change. Going to try the 300v eventually, not sure whether to do it this change for the track day or use the leftover Valvoline first.

So I finished fitting the intercooler today. Not a great idea to do while you've got a cold/flu thing, but I needed to get it done and the car mobile again.

While I was at it I threw all the black clips on the front bar in the bin, and replaced them with brand new ones I bought on ebay. I also soldered the pins on the factory boost sensor at the same time, so the boost gauge works again (finally!).

Only thing is I've now got a bit of white smoke. Not sure if it's burning off the excess WD40 I used on the silicon joiners or what, but hopefully it goes away after a bit of a drive.

Paint not to your standards? :nyaanyaa:

Haha smart arse.

If you're going down the Ryco route though, there are other people who produce filters cheaper which are just as good if not better.

And if we're going to have a discussion on paint I'm not sure I'm a fan of the bright pink HKS filter :P

I've always found Ryco filters overpriced for average quality. I've got a Nismo filter on at the moment, which seems fine, and about to change it for a HKS one when I do my oil change. Going to try the 300v eventually, not sure whether to do it this change for the track day or use the leftover Valvoline first.

$50-$100 gamble over a potential $2,500 loss!!!!spank.gif

BTW - NEO is $112 delivered to you door for 5LT's!!!!.....the only other oil I would use would be Royal Purple....Motul while good fall's short of both the NEO and Royal Purple IMO!

LET THE OIL WAR"S BEGIN!!!!!!! BAHHHHAAAAAAHHHHHAAAAAAA

Edited by Jetwreck

He runs the NEO oil.

I'm trying to work out what physical difference there is, and I can see the Motul 300v is more viscous than the Royal Purple, but haven't worked out any other significant differences.

I can't find the NEO datasheet - their own web site doesn't even list a 10w40 anymore...

He runs the NEO oil.

I'm trying to work out what physical difference there is, and I can see the Motul 300v is more viscous than the Royal Purple, but haven't worked out any other significant differences.

I can't find the NEO datasheet - their own web site doesn't even list a 10w40 anymore...

I sent a snapshot of the tin to Cam recently...I'll post it up next time I remember...I also run a Nismo Oil filter......$10-$15 extra doesn't bother me either.

I sent a snapshot of the tin to Cam recently...I'll post it up next time I remember...I also run a Nismo Oil filter......$10-$15 extra doesn't bother me either.

Are these M35/V35 specific? Is there a long wait time on them? I was really hoping to change the oil this weekend..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...