Jump to content
SAU Community

What Have You Done To Your Stagea Lately?

Hanso

By Hanso,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 9.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

chuckie
chuckie

FITTED 2 NEW BOLTS TO MY Brakes is this a MOD i CAN POST or do i need aprovall from NM#% But i may need to ask if it`s ok to POST hope to POST MORE SOON

chuckie
chuckie

Thanks for all your HELP , I guess owning a NM#% is some sort of gift , i guess with all your imput i will be happy to have a NM#% in the family & may be you will be more helpfully then, but a

chuckie
chuckie

LOOKING AT BUYING NM#% CAN I GET SOME POINTERS ON WHATS SHIT & WHATS NOT got some new bolts for Calipers

Posted Images

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

I went and got my car from the smash repairer's, the door mirror rust and rear bumper scuff are fixed, and the new spoiler is painted and on.

Pics plz??

How much was the rust component? ta.....

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Put the Nismo mats in - I'll get you a photo soon Josh.

Also reconnected the Cruise Control and the F-con. Sadly as soon as I started the car with the F-con connected I had no throttle and a fault code appeared.

Disconnect F-con, throttle came back, fault code disappeared.

More work required sadly...

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Did you play with the throttle curve at all Ryan? If so, I would put it back to stock. Mine will fault occasionally, but it is still running fine most of the time as a daily.

The stock ecu is checking the voltage outputs from the pedal and throttle continuously, if it detects even a slight variance it will fault. As the pedal voltage goes through the cruise and the Fcon it wouldn't take much to affect the resistance. You could try cleaning all the plugs, and perhaps disconnecting the cruise and see if the Fcon works again?

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

Drove very slowly until I could pull over & disconnect my AFM.

I've been wondering for several years when it would fail & what it would feel like.

Not as exciting as you might think. :/

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Did you play with the throttle curve at all Ryan? If so, I would put it back to stock. Mine will fault occasionally, but it is still running fine most of the time as a daily.

The stock ecu is checking the voltage outputs from the pedal and throttle continuously, if it detects even a slight variance it will fault. As the pedal voltage goes through the cruise and the Fcon it wouldn't take much to affect the resistance. You could try cleaning all the plugs, and perhaps disconnecting the cruise and see if the Fcon works again?

Yeah I have mate. I'll put it back to stock and give it a try.

I've already disconnected the cruise, made no difference so I reconnected. Works fine with the F-con disconnected so it's either map or setup related on the F-con. DAMMIT!

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

Drove very slowly until I could pull over & disconnect my AFM.

I've been wondering for several years when it would fail & what it would feel like.

Not as exciting as you might think. :/

Heh. Not exciting at all. Last time I forgot to reconnect it - my fail. Pretty easy and not incredibly expensive fix thankfully!

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

You don't need the afm anymore Ryan, you just need to sort out the fcon. :P

I reset all the ecu's in my car yesterday, now I have no airbag light flashing, and the engine light is off. First time I have had a clear dash since I bought it 4 years ago.

It did have an 'app' code, which I assume is Accelerator Pedal Position, I have another sensor on order at Nissan to rule it out. Hopefully that's all it is, otherwise I will have to disconnect the cruise for a while I guess. If it keeps going into limp mode then, I will be going for a new ecu, either a 350z Haltech platinum pro or a Link g4, for the throttle and cam drivers. That should fix it.

bigkevracer Grand Master

bigkevracer

Posted
Posted

You don't need the afm anymore Ryan, you just need to sort out the fcon. :P

I reset all the ecu's in my car yesterday, now I have no airbag light flashing, and the engine light is off. First time I have had a clear dash since I bought it 4 years ago.

It did have an 'app' code, which I assume is Accelerator Pedal Position, I have another sensor on order at Nissan to rule it out. Hopefully that's all it is, otherwise I will have to disconnect the cruise for a while I guess. If it keeps going into limp mode then, I will be going for a new ecu, either a 350z Haltech platinum pro or a Link g4, for the throttle and cam drivers. That should fix it.

How much was the accelerator position sensor Scotty?
pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

finished off the rest of my suspension swap over

the rear gtr springs don't fit stagea shock tops

and the front gtr springs were a lot longer than the stag ones too

so now i have eibach springs with gtr bilsteins

front height is perfect (though the springs are only just captive at full droop (middle circlip height)

rear is sitting a log higher than i want, possibly higher than when i started (lowest circlip position)

any idea how much it would cost to get new groves made for the rear shocks?

IMG_20130306_172126_zpsb9742a7f.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • TurboTapin
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...