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that's about the standard boost mate....is the boost controller turned on? generally it would be set between 12 and 14psi for a standard turbo :teehee:

oh really? I was told by a few people that standard they are meant to be set at about 7psi and 10psi is the 'safe' boost to run daily on stock turbo. Boost controller is turned on, but i haven't tried playing with it yet. Need to download and read the manual :/

Blowoff valve and wiring loom for ignition coils arrived today! Wuhoo! Off to mech on Friday to have it all fitted up, then as soon as my tuner has time, we'll give it the 5th "final tune", and everything will be awesome (probably wishful thinking given the epic issues, but you gotta stay positive, yeah?)...

Sounds like it should all be sorted :) it's good you got back on the horse, it can be really detering when these things happen.

I remember someone asking for a picture of my seat because we were bidding against each other months ago. So here it is.

image.jpg

Wow cool seat!

Update on our stag. We put a new fuel pump in (walbro) then started getting a hesitation on take off and light throttle. Checked voltage at the pump on idle and revs. 9 volts!! Haha didn't really want to run a new power cable etc so at first I was like il try earthing the fuel pump direct to the chassis and see what happens.

So did that and check voltage. 12.2 volts. Sweet! Went for a drive and the hesitation was gone!! Yay

Car went on the dyno again and made 180kws at all four wheels. Goes much harder now, wow haha

good to hear that it was a simple fix, but you need to be a little careful with just putting it straight to the chassis. Does the fuel pump still turn off after a few seconds when you turn the ignition on (but do not start the car?)

In a lot of these systems the ECU uses the earth to turn off the fuel pump when the ignition is on but the car does not start.

If your fuel pump does not turn off (may be hard to hear), you need to add a relay where pin 85 goes to the original ECU earth to the fuel pump (12v can come from any ignition switched source to pin 86). Then connect the old fuel pump earth to pin 30 and pin 87 then to the chassis earth.

What have I done to my Stagea lately??

Nipped in to town to do some shopping!

All this gear in the car and still could of beat any Commondore!!!

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2

hay

What have I done to my Stagea lately?? Nipped in to town to do some shopping! All this gear in the car and still could of beat any Commondore!!! Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk 2

That's quite a bit of stuff is that shopping for a couple of months!

Gktech open ended wheel nuts on order, once they arrive I'll start playing with my spacers :-)

Managed to pick up two pairs of their 15-30mm spacers for $150

Should be able to fit my kakimotos over the front brakes now

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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