Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeh it was raining. lol i went home and slept. reason as to why im up now. ill swing past after work tomorrow pending pickles...

honestly i wouldnt port it.. wouldnt want the same problem that ended up happening with Vartis' head. f**k that

looking good scotty, how long til your done i want to take a ride in the great white whale :yes:

on another note i made my car SLOWER!...............with a set of Grex Alcon callipers and discs!! ;)

Installed the apex-i cat back I got from ross... Not really happy how it sits. I feel it could stick out about 2-3 more inches but it will do for now. Ill adjust it when I get the rest of my exhaust done.

Fitted front & rear Whiteline swaybars & rear links today (thanks Dale!) - will fit my new SPC rear camber & toe bolts next week & Superpro front camber & caster bushes as soon as they arrive (thanks again Dale!!!)

Car sits about one mullion times flatter with the new bars & would happily crack it sideways around sharp corners under a bootfull of power if it wasn't for the lack of LSD.

Highly recommended mod in the unlikely event you haven't already heard about it.

they look good dale!

Hopefully they'll look even better once they've been coated. :thumbsup: Getting a coat of deep black, and then a coat of 600deg clear to finish off.

Do the GT-T calipers bolt up to the standard hubs w/ standard discs?

They bolt straight up to our hubs with the added bonus of M14 mounting bolts (as opposed to 12mm on R32 GTR & R33 GTSt).

You need the matching 310mm x 30mm GTt rotors.

Looks like it's worth the effort then Dale! Easy solution (if, of course, you don't strip and rebuild/repaint!)

Was less pissing about than I was expecting actually; I had less trouble getting the pistons out of these than any caliper I've ever done.

I chucked them on really quickly in the workshop today, to see what they look like; I'm dying to get them finished now!

Pics once they're done.

OK, so after I bought the new front bar I did a trial fit of it to see how it sits compaired to the old one.

BEFORE:

DSC00028.jpg

AFTER: DSC01571.jpg

I'm also in the process of making up some blanking plates for the LED indicators supplied with it. Below is a pic of the LHS blanking plate partially completed.

FRONT VIEW:

DSC01577.jpg

Below is the template + LED lights

DSC01576.jpg

Why not just incorporate it into the stereo?

Ian, new front bumper looks heaps better!

Huh? It is incorporated into the stereo...it uses the factory head unit and speakers.

If your asking why I didn't buy a BT enabled headunit instead... I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars in parts just so I can fit a single/double DIN unit that won't do what my phone and a $99 WDTV can do. Know any headunits that can support NTFS? I'm sick of being limited to USB sticks for storage.

How does it connect to a head unit for music playback, Is it RCA or via the radio?

It can play back music via BT A2P streaming - the unit connects to the factory system via RCA. I didn't enable it since the AUX in will be used by a WDTV unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...