Jump to content
SAU Community

Experience With A 25/30 And A "small" Turbo

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo
 Share

Recommended Posts

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i'm looking to alter my setup and gain some torque and response.... i'm happy with the power, as i dont want to be breaking things regularly if possible ;)

i'm open to all sorts of ideas but at the moment i'm leaning towards a RIPS 25/30 long motor

i'm planning to use my current turbo (HKS 2835 pro s)

what i was wondering is if anyone has any experience on how a "small" turbo like this performs on a 3.0

does it creep much? does it surge? etc etc

for comparison's sake it's basically a garret 3071 with a .68 rear housing

cheers

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

I had an rb30/25 NEO with a mildly highflowed r33 turbo, it made 170rwkw @7psi, held boost fine, torquey, but tapered off really fast. You mey find that you end up making the 300rwkw you want at 4500rpm, and 270rwkw at 6000, which is about 1/2 the torque as 4500

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

You know who to speak to; Al.

He was kind enough to hand over the keys a few times at a deca a while ago. It's a true freak of a car to drive in its own special way. If I had a gtst, I'd get the same setup and some seriously grippy tyres

Dale FZ1 Veteran

Dale FZ1

Posted
Posted

Adriano is on the money. It would pull like a tractor down low, build boost fast and then torque would taper quickly as rpm rose. Turbine spec is too small to let it breathe up high, could not produce over the same rpm range as Al.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i think i could probably pick up a new 3076 .86 for around the price i can sell my 2835 kit for...

might as well go for the best possible setup for what i want, as opposed to settling

considering the difference will only be a few $$$ and the turbo has to come off anyway

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

i think i could probably pick up a new 3076 .86 for around the price i can sell my 2835 kit for...

might as well go for the best possible setup for what i want, as opposed to settling

considering the difference will only be a few $$$ and the turbo has to come off anyway

I think you mean 0.82 housing. To be honest I think the 0.82 will be worth changing to. Exactly right the turbo is already off and you will get good money for your current kit. Not to mention the hassle and expense of fitting the current turbo up getting a tune and then deciding its not what you want and having to change turbo again and retune.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

i think i could probably pick up a new 3076 .86 for around the price i can sell my 2835 kit for...

might as well go for the best possible setup for what i want, as opposed to settling

considering the difference will only be a few $$$ and the turbo has to come off anyway

Spot on and what you should be doin :D

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

3.0 + poncams + 3076R = :D

But if you want the most out of it, Disco is right.

Go the 1.06 rear and 650 cc or larger inj.

I just looked at your boost response, looks great, seems as though it beads off pretty quick.. I'm guessing because of the small housing!

So many hybrid motors don't see full boost till close to 4500+ rpm..

I'm also planning to build a 25/30 motor, with VCT running for my next car (whenever that comes)..

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

I just looked at your boost response, looks great, seems as though it beads off pretty quick.. I'm guessing because of the small housing!

So many hybrid motors don't see full boost till close to 4500+ rpm..

I'm also planning to build a 25/30 motor, with VCT running for my next car (whenever that comes)..

they must be running big turbos for 4500+.

my GT35 (0.82 rear ext gate) can pump 18-19psi @ 3600ish

Amoreuxi Newbie

Amoreuxi

Posted
Posted (edited)

For a streeter.

Going much smaller than a GT30 and you need to look out for the old torque vs rpm vs gearing.

The RB30's choke very quickly with a small turbo and begin hurting over 5500rpm of which seriously kills your acceleration once up and rolling.

If the rpm doesn't match the gearing you'll find you will be shifting considerably earlier and the old rb25/20 setup was quicker and importantly more fun to drive.

GT30 .8 - 2800-3000rpm all its boost

GT35 .8 - 3500rpm ish all its boost

GT35 1.06- 3800-3900rpm all its boost.

Don't let that gt35 1.06 300rpmish fool you the 1.06 does feel a fair bit more dull to the .8 in first and second. The .8 makes more boost at a lower rpm where as the 1.06 tends to making very little then snap on hard. In my experience anyway.

Edited by Amoreuxi
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

There is also on/off throttle to contend with.

Not only is a larger housing more "dull", it's also going to be slower in/out of gears to rebuild boost and so on.

Also making it easier to bring back up onto boost and just feather it. Given Hamish's use of car, the smaller housing is certainly more suited

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

There is also on/off throttle to contend with.

Not only is a larger housing more "dull", it's also going to be slower in/out of gears to rebuild boost and so on.

Also making it easier to bring back up onto boost and just feather it. Given Hamish's use of car, the smaller housing is certainly more suited

Not sure if "dull" is the correct word to use. The 1.06 housing will have some lag and then hit harder.

I would personally choose a GT35 0.82 for an RB25/30 if I ever do one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...