Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a happy story for the new year :D

I have been running a Nitto oil pump on my race car for about 18 months now. In that time, the pump has outlasted 3 different motors which failed for different reasons, but it has just needed a good clean, and it's been bolted back on. But this story isn't really about the oil pump itself.

A recent oil analysis showed that my last motor was rooted, so I organised all the bits to rebuild it over xmas. Of course, the issue is that everyone is closed over xmas so you have to get everything organised ahead of time before everyone finishes up. Bottom end machined by TCH, new pistons, rings, bearings, bolts from Just Jap. Head cleaned. CAMS engine measure and sealing guy lined up for later the next week.

Hills Motorsport opened up the workshop for me to work in over the week because I don't have a place to work at the moment, and we got underway stripping the old motor. On Monday (Boxing Day public holiday) we got to the bottom and and stripped everything inclduing the oil pump.

When we opened the oil pump.....we found a bolt head in it. Bad scoring on the oil pump housing, backing plate and some light damage to the gear. This bolt head had been sucked into the oil pump and had been bashing of the gear for 000s of rpm.

But the real issue is we were stuffed for progress because we did not have another oil pump to use, and I only had use of the space for a week. And the engine sealer was already locked in for that Thursday.

Mark from Hills called up Andrew from Nitto, and he came out on the Public Holiday, picked up the pump, opened the shop the next day and called on of the guys in. Some machining of the housing, linishing of the gears, new backing plate and measuring later, I got back a shiny, useable oil pump the following day with a very reasonable bill.

So....thumbs up for Nitto for helping out when we were stuck. They have an excellent quality product at a good price, but most importantly they are local and stand behind their product.

Good work guys :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349419-my-nitto-experience/
Share on other sites

Ate a bolt, kept flowing oil and wasn't the cause of the broken motor? That's amazing! Heard a story about Paul from Red R Racing GT-R and it's Nitto pump swallowed a bearing and spat it back out and kept going. No idea if its true though.

ahh well oil flow was indeed badly affected which is why the motor died....but that is very much the bolt head's fault, not the pump's. A fair bit of metal ran through this pump but the gears were fine and it just needed fixing of the alloy housing.

sounds like you really got looked after. well done mate.

its a shame that so many other companies don't want to know you after you leave the shop with one of their products.

i haven't had any over-ly horrible experiences myself but i no plenty of people get left in the dark or with no product support.

i spent a few thousand dollars on tools (all one brand from the same shop) and when i had same failures they did not want to know me.

i proceeded to tell them to bash it up their ass and i have since convinced many of my work mates to spend their money else where lol

Ate a bolt, kept flowing oil and wasn't the cause of the broken motor? That's amazing! Heard a story about Paul from Red R Racing GT-R and it's Nitto pump swallowed a bearing and spat it back out and kept going. No idea if its true though.

No, it is not true... firstly it was a fragment of block and secondly it was not one of Paul's engines. Be careful what you write without knowing all the facts; Pauly is pretty anal with his bearing clearances.

Anyway, Nitto = Good!

Hi Duncan

Good to see it came together for you, and props to Nitto that's awesome. If I could put one of their pumps on without the palaver of yanking the engine etc I'd be running one now.

Care to share where it was that said bolt 'bolted' from?

Mark

Also keen to know where the "bolt head" was from?!?

The bolt was a cam cover baffle bolt head that broke off. Unfortunate but not really relevent to this.

I'm more impressed that a company went so far to help out in the week that everybody is shut down.....i don't think an imported Jun or Tomei pump from nengun would get exactly the same level of support.

Arthur, bottom end machining, head clean and bearings were about 1500, pistons, head bolts, main bolts and head gasket were 1500. +lots of time!

Bob, I got mine direct from Nitto, but there are plenty of re-sellers, including in SAU for sale :D

Wow! That's an amazing story Duncan, glad you got it sorted out quickly...

Nitto make great quality products & our "NITTO" R34 GTR, which pumps out 1072awhp with no nitrous is great evidence of that!

It utilises Nitto's 2.7 stroker kit, Nitto's oil pump, Nitto's DB Drag Series headgasket plus a swag of other Nitto parts...

yes i was wondering when i first read the thread how the bolt head made it to the oil pump. i also came to the conclusion that the filter gauze on the pick up must of been removed lol. ?? i know its unrelated to nitto's great servive but tell us duncan how did it make it that far through the oil system :S

Well I think I know what kinda pump is going into my eventual build....lol

On the topic, do Nitto make external oil pumps at all? I've gone this far through summer with no A/C, so hell - might as well swap out the compressor for something useful.

Well I think I know what kinda pump is going into my eventual build....lol

On the topic, do Nitto make external oil pumps at all? I've gone this far through summer with no A/C, so hell - might as well swap out the compressor for something useful.

Red R Racing do a kit

So basically you got some favours the common man wouldn't... Cool story Uncle Dunc :P

My thoughts exactly. It also helps if you're sponsored by the workshop mentioned ;)

Although I've heard nothing but good things about nitto parts. Unlike your sponsor haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...