Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys looking at welding up my own log manifold for my R33. I have a Hypergear ATR43G3/ATG28G4 that is internally gated.

I don't want to buy an ebay manifold, and really can't afford a 6boost type manifold.

Looking at learning to weld(I have some welding experience) and creating my own.

Found this site that sells the needed parts http://www.expressparts.com.au/manifoldmaterials.asp

Was planning to buy the rb25 exhaust flange, 4 buttweld tee's,2 90deg elbows, 1 straight pipe for all the little joins and 1 T3 Flange.

Should i be using the 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" piping?

I have a spare stock exhaust manifold to make up a jig to get the turbo sitting in the stock position. Also plan on getting a dead head to help with construction.

Just wondering if any one on here has done this before and has any helpful hints.

I also plan to hake provisions for an external gate. Any tips on placement?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349796-diy-log-manifold/
Share on other sites

How much power are you looking for?

I have bought a Sinco Customs manifold similar to the 6Boost and looking at the work that has gone into it even though I can gas and electric weld I wouldn't even think of trying to make one.

Stocker is good for 300kw or a bit more at a pinch. No need to make provision for external w/g as you can run it off the exhaust housing of the turbo when you get around to it.

As other have mentioned it would be pretty pointless, you will probably end up going backwards...

Plus you will almost surely end up spending more money and time than just buying a 6boost, but realistically... I would just stick with the stocker

PS. You can make 350rwkw with standard manifold, that turbo on the other hand might struggle

Edited by SimonR32

It's not re inventing the wheel. Its all about the tinkering and learning.

Stock manifold is good for 300rwkw my goal is around the 350rwkw mark.

you won't make 350rwkw with that turbo.

and that turbo won't max the stock manifold

Pretty sure the turbo will reach 350rwkw.Its not a high flow and the housings aren't too far of a gt35r with the .82 housing(Think thats the correct housing).

I was only considering building my own due to everyone on this forum saying the stock manifolds max out at 300rwkw.

My brother is a 1st class welder so i have the welding support if needed.

Edited by Crans

The cast HKS manifolds seam to do an OK job. Parts would only come up to $300. Was just an idea, lots of 4 cylinder cars seam to use log manifolds.

If everyone thinks its a bad idea i might just stick with the stocker for now and get a gate welded onto the housing

Why is it that everyone says the stock manifolds can only flow 300rwkw???

here is a dyno sheet of my stock manifold flowing well over that. granted its a hub dyno but would still

be making 350-360rwkw on a chassis dyno

post-32514-0-52955000-1294645006_thumb.jpg

If oyu are going to have a crack at making your own manifold, why not rotate the exhaust housing, but keep the turbo in the same location. That way you will be ablt to do a proper merge collector, but will not need to change intake piping or oil/water lines.

The cast HKS manifolds seam to do an OK job. Parts would only come up to $300. Was just an idea, lots of 4 cylinder cars seam to use log manifolds.

If everyone thinks its a bad idea i might just stick with the stocker for now and get a gate welded onto the housing

why when it is an internally gated turbo?

Why is it that everyone says the stock manifolds can only flow 300rwkw???

here is a dyno sheet of my stock manifold flowing well over that. granted its a hub dyno but would still

be making 350-360rwkw on a chassis dyno

post-32514-0-52955000-1294645006_thumb.jpg

Jesus! Whats the settup on that? So much mid range but then falls on its ass at 5500rpm

Looks like 3rd gear maybe?

Make sure you clean up the inside of the manifold before using it, had seen people with ebay or back yeard manifolds fallen to bits that chipped the turbine wheel. With the current turb you will need a .70 com housing with a 58 trim comp wheel to get upto 350rwkws at about 28psi on ron 98, which I can get that modified pretty cheaply.

You will find slightly cooler EGT with bigger manifolds and external gate for about 1~2 degrees of extra timing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...