Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys looking at welding up my own log manifold for my R33. I have a Hypergear ATR43G3/ATG28G4 that is internally gated.

I don't want to buy an ebay manifold, and really can't afford a 6boost type manifold.

Looking at learning to weld(I have some welding experience) and creating my own.

Found this site that sells the needed parts http://www.expressparts.com.au/manifoldmaterials.asp

Was planning to buy the rb25 exhaust flange, 4 buttweld tee's,2 90deg elbows, 1 straight pipe for all the little joins and 1 T3 Flange.

Should i be using the 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" piping?

I have a spare stock exhaust manifold to make up a jig to get the turbo sitting in the stock position. Also plan on getting a dead head to help with construction.

Just wondering if any one on here has done this before and has any helpful hints.

I also plan to hake provisions for an external gate. Any tips on placement?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349796-diy-log-manifold/
Share on other sites

How much power are you looking for?

I have bought a Sinco Customs manifold similar to the 6Boost and looking at the work that has gone into it even though I can gas and electric weld I wouldn't even think of trying to make one.

Stocker is good for 300kw or a bit more at a pinch. No need to make provision for external w/g as you can run it off the exhaust housing of the turbo when you get around to it.

As other have mentioned it would be pretty pointless, you will probably end up going backwards...

Plus you will almost surely end up spending more money and time than just buying a 6boost, but realistically... I would just stick with the stocker

PS. You can make 350rwkw with standard manifold, that turbo on the other hand might struggle

Edited by SimonR32

It's not re inventing the wheel. Its all about the tinkering and learning.

Stock manifold is good for 300rwkw my goal is around the 350rwkw mark.

you won't make 350rwkw with that turbo.

and that turbo won't max the stock manifold

Pretty sure the turbo will reach 350rwkw.Its not a high flow and the housings aren't too far of a gt35r with the .82 housing(Think thats the correct housing).

I was only considering building my own due to everyone on this forum saying the stock manifolds max out at 300rwkw.

My brother is a 1st class welder so i have the welding support if needed.

Edited by Crans

The cast HKS manifolds seam to do an OK job. Parts would only come up to $300. Was just an idea, lots of 4 cylinder cars seam to use log manifolds.

If everyone thinks its a bad idea i might just stick with the stocker for now and get a gate welded onto the housing

Why is it that everyone says the stock manifolds can only flow 300rwkw???

here is a dyno sheet of my stock manifold flowing well over that. granted its a hub dyno but would still

be making 350-360rwkw on a chassis dyno

post-32514-0-52955000-1294645006_thumb.jpg

If oyu are going to have a crack at making your own manifold, why not rotate the exhaust housing, but keep the turbo in the same location. That way you will be ablt to do a proper merge collector, but will not need to change intake piping or oil/water lines.

The cast HKS manifolds seam to do an OK job. Parts would only come up to $300. Was just an idea, lots of 4 cylinder cars seam to use log manifolds.

If everyone thinks its a bad idea i might just stick with the stocker for now and get a gate welded onto the housing

why when it is an internally gated turbo?

Why is it that everyone says the stock manifolds can only flow 300rwkw???

here is a dyno sheet of my stock manifold flowing well over that. granted its a hub dyno but would still

be making 350-360rwkw on a chassis dyno

post-32514-0-52955000-1294645006_thumb.jpg

Jesus! Whats the settup on that? So much mid range but then falls on its ass at 5500rpm

Looks like 3rd gear maybe?

Make sure you clean up the inside of the manifold before using it, had seen people with ebay or back yeard manifolds fallen to bits that chipped the turbine wheel. With the current turb you will need a .70 com housing with a 58 trim comp wheel to get upto 350rwkws at about 28psi on ron 98, which I can get that modified pretty cheaply.

You will find slightly cooler EGT with bigger manifolds and external gate for about 1~2 degrees of extra timing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...