Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Really, how do you ensure all the water is out?

I would have thought you use something that mix's with oil, once flushed run some cheap oil through it, drain it and then put the good stuff in.

Really, how do you ensure all the water is out?

I would have thought you use something that mix's with oil, once flushed run some cheap oil through it, drain it and then put the good stuff in.

you just turn the engine on, when it heats up the water dries...duh!!

my neighboor came over earlier and he undid the bolt undeneath and we drained the oil out then i used the hose to flush the oil out and squired in some washing up liquid to clean it out then flushed it again and after a while only clean water came out. now im trying to dry the water so it doesnt rust and im using my mums hairdryer, how long do you think it will take to dry out and what oil should i put in?? thanks i took a photo alsopost-80834-0-85379300-1296008622_thumb.jpg

It's good you have a responsible adult helping you. Scissors can be very dangerous.

As far as oil goes? I'd recommend your mum's Singer Sewing machine oil or Johnson's Baby oil.

:wacko: Good luck with that...

post-78856-0-42146500-1296014203_thumb.jpg

post-78856-0-79017600-1296014226_thumb.jpg

what a joke. do some reading before you touch mechanicals. ie Google if you dont know what the F you are doing.

get 2litres of kerosene and 2litres of methylated spirits, mix together in a bucket, flush the engine with the 4lt mix. Let it drain thru. let it dry for a cple hours.

then buy 5litres of $20 cheap oil and an engine oil flush additive (around $15 from a auto store). pour all this in.

run the engine for 10mins, IDLING only. No foot on accelerator.

then drain again, and fill with good oil, 5litres of Castrol Edge Sport 10/40, or Motul 300v, or Royal Purple, a decent oil worth around $75-$100 for the 5litres.

Dont skimp on the above.

Do as I suggest and you should be ok. Water in the engine is just stupid. Clean it out with kero/metho, then flush with cheap oil/oil flush additive, then replace with new fresh top brand oil.

hi im gonna buy some oil later but im not sure what to get and i dont have much money at the momant should i make sure the car is gonna work ok first before buying oil my neighboor is at work today so cant help me, i need to get this sorted today. thanks

hi im gonna buy some oil later but im not sure what to get and i dont have much money at the momant should i make sure the car is gonna work ok first before buying oil my neighboor is at work today so cant help me, i need to get this sorted today. thanks

Just tell your brother you dimwit!

it is plausable for someone to be so stupid, I've heard it happening before.

so if your serious, before you eff shit up even more, cut up some car wash sponges into little cubes and put it in the HKS cap part. You need to get all the water out first. then start it without oil and all the foam should come out of the screw hole at the bottom.

Vegetable oil works well, especially if you like the smell of canola

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...