Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys my name is Sherry.

My first Car was a Nissan Skyline TI. Now i finally have my full license i want to turn my car into a burnout car for events at eastern creek and summernats.

Im not too sure of what i want to do with it yet, But i want to keep it naturally aspirated.

I am thinking a 460 BB but i dont want to be greedy, also possibly thinking a 5lt. But i also do realise i need to consider power to weight.

Any Suggestions are more than welcome!!

Thanks :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351831-skyline-ti-burnout-car/
Share on other sites

ok, I never even thought of the coyote, how do you think that would go with my engine bay though. would i have to change anything to be able to fit it in? Also how do you think it would go power to weight ratio??

Please excuse any "silly" questions, this is the first car i want to build myself :blush:

a mate of mine had a worked rb30E powered 31. went well for what it was, but a v8 would be better. know of another guy in town with a datsun stanza burnout car. pretty sure it has a natro sr20 in it. they start in 2nd gear and stay in 2nd gear. if the revs start to drop too much they give it a squirt of nitrous to pick the revs back up. you want torque for a burnout car so that you can get into the highest gear possible (the faster the tyres are going, the more smoke you'll get). this also means you can get plenty of smoke without having to keep it banging on the limiter, which helps with engine temps and engine life.

silly question.... rb30 E what does the E stand for? Also what KW did they get for that?

i like the sound of the coyote engine but also have to think of suspension n all that shiznit... im seriously leaning towards something of 5l or 5.7. If i go much bigger i think it will throw out my power to weight too much

:rolleyes: i am a sucker for Muscle though, coming from a family of mechanics

I want something to stand out from everything else. Hence why i dont want a turbo.

You want to stand out but you want to put a V8 in for something like Summernats...

Windsor 302...can get them dirt cheap, will be fine for the weight of the car, can get in carby or EFI configuration, relatively small engine, myriad of aftermarket parts available.

The E in RB30E stands for electronic fuel injection.

Windsor 302...can get them dirt cheap, will be fine for the weight of the car, can get in carby or EFI configuration, relatively small engine, myriad of aftermarket parts available.

The E in RB30E stands for electronic fuel injection.

Ahhhh ok, thanks heaps. something to consider :thumbsup:

How much r we talking about?? or i had a suggestion for a LS1 and putting a manualised turbo behind it to get decent power to weight ratio?

any v8 conversion will cost a bit of money in fabrication (engine mounts, gearbox mount, custom tail shaft if needed) but will give you good results for a burnout car. a LS1 would be good since they are a light motor (lighter than the stock RB), and they are relatively cheap these days. hardly different though.

if you want to be different, try to squeeze a turbo 'BARRA' 6 engine (xr6 turbo engine) in there. might be a bit of a squeeze and will put a touch more weight over the front end, but they have a buttload of torque, are easy to make good power out of, and it will be pretty much one of a kind. just might not fit in with the v8 bogans at summernats as well as a v8 would though.

im putting a 357 in it .. getting quotes n shiz as we speak :rolleyes:

Cleveland, Windsor, SBC or Mopar?

I doubt a cleveland will fit without chopping the strut towers out, sames goes with a 351 windsor.

either way, big engine + little engine bay means epic overheat before 3mins is up.

Ever notice that all the engines that go pop due to overheating in burnout comps are those in little cars, eg toranas, cortinas, Rx4s etc

cleveland.

I'm not going short with this car. The engine for what i want will cost at least $40,000 if not more.

Plus the diff and tailshaft im getting will definately be able to handle the h/p that comes out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...