Hr31 Coupe Rb26 (For Now)

[Roy]

Tentative new home for the accusump - will need a cover in this location but shouldn't be too hard to knock up.

What accumsump are you running? Auto or manual valve?

[DCIEVE]

I have the electronic valve but based on advice from a few users on SAU and other forums I'm going with a manual valve instead. The only disadvantage of the manual valve seems to be higher wear rates on the cylinder since it is constantly charging/discharging but it's otherwise much simpler and recommended by Canton for race cars. I'll data log oil pressure and trim the % open on the valve if it's discharging too quickly - Simon-S14 talks about this in his build thread in a bit more detail.

Panasports all come in custom sizes with your choice of everything..

http://www.panasport.jp/

I've been wanting Panasports for years but at 5k delivered they're hard to justify over Works that are a few grand less. I've been burnt trying to buy second hand as well (once on SAU), the vast majority seem to be cracked/bent so it's just too risky.

In another build thread I was informed by a helpful fellow that the A1000 might struggle on e85 at my power levels This was a bit painful after plumbing the boot to suit the aeromotive but it looks like it won't be too hard to shoe horn the new pump in.

Edited January 16, 2013 by DCIEVE

[roarpwr]

Dude seriously... you have too much Kesh!!!!

still insanely jealous though hahaha...

[Roy]

Interesting when I read the Canton website it talks about using the pressure regulating kit for race applications as it ensures that the unit isnt discharding from the high pressure say 8,000rpm oil pressure when you are at low revs or idling?!?! The pressure switch controlling the valve means it always has a volume of oil for that surge...makes sense but I really like the simplicity of the manual system which I simply open when doing sessions

LOL..."In hard core racing applications a manual valve is used for simplicity." vs

"For those looking for the convenience of an electric valve and the fast refill rate required in racing applications our (electric pressure control) E.P.C. electric valves are recommended. The pressure control system keeps the electric valve in the off position during times of normal oil pressure. With the valve in the off position it is able to quickly recharge the Accusump with oil pressure after discharge, thus being ready for the next oil surge. When the engine's oil pressure drops below the EPC Valve's preset level the valve opens and releases the stored oil in to the system. Like our standard electric valve the EPC valve can be wired to a remote dash-mounted switch or can be wired directly into the ignition so it will turn on and off automatically when the ignition is in the 'on' or the 'off' position."

[DCIEVE]

Roy, I had another look at the canton site again and see what you mean!! I think the simple option is going to be the most reliable - in a quick search it's easy to find people who have had the electronic valves fail. The way I see it is on the track the rpm is always up, if the oil pump momentarily sucks air the accumulator immediately starts dumping oil.. pressure drops slowly as it discharges and if the accumulator is large enough the oil pump will have started picking up oil before pressure drops too far. Failing that I have an EPC I can sell you

[DCIEVE]

It's been a while but here's an update for the last three or so months. I finally bit the bullet on some wheels - I need fairly unique wheel offsets/widths which ruled out the usual super lightweight one piece forged options unfortunately. Tyres are due to arrive in the next couple weeks so I'll soon find out if they fit - fingers crossed.

I've been told the weldon fuel pumps are extremely noisy so I grabbed some vibration isolation mounts. They're on the big side so I cut some cf sheet so they would seat cleanly on the pump.

The pump was then bolted down on the base plate Brad Stacy fabricated for the previous fuel system based around the Aeromotive pump. There's three filters now, 100micron magnafuel before the lift pump, 40micron before the main pump and 10micron after.

Worked out pretty well considering the surge tank and bulkheads were all located based on the aeromotive pump and one less filter. The in line fuel pressure sensor is now mounted directly to the bulkhead to the left in the pic below.

Having seen a few plastic fuel cells deform pretty badly I thought a breather on the tank might be a good idea - ended up finding a rollover type valve which saves me running the breather hose in loops and to the far extremes of the tank to prevent fuel spilling in a roll.

All the undercar lines are done now with the return line diverting to the fuel cooler before continuing to the surge tank.

The accusump is also on vibration isolation mounts, largely just to get it off the floor and keep the mounting 'soft'. Going to have to make a cover and vent it outside the cabin at some stage.

Spent some time carefully notching the flares for the front bumper. Still waiting for the rear to get welded up so I can paint the exposed metal and get the flares on for good.

I've spent a fair bit of time plugging all the old loom/ac and heater line holes in and around the firewall in an attempt to keep fumes out of the cabin. I'm planning to use bulkhead fittings for the wiring loom to the same effect (also have bulkhead fittings for the battery cable, accusump oil line etc). Also used the same carbon sheet to fill holes in the dash left by the old fan controls, radio etc and to plug the big hole in the boot used by the standard fuel pump.

Trying to get on top the wiring situation now, ordering the bulkhead connectors etc.

[roarpwr]

That is stupidly neat....

Good work... Can't wait to see this running hey...

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

What brand and specs are the wheels matie?

[260DET]

Love these coupes, have not gone through the whole thread but the semi trailing arm rear suspension needs serious geometry changes to work well. Which nobody seems to do. BMW did it, so can you

Accusump? Should be located as close as possible to the engine to reduce supply lag, plus the electric valve is way better than the alternative. Mine is in the engine bay, electric valve switches a warning light on the dash.

[DCIEVE]

What brand and specs are the wheels matie?

They're Work Meisters, 10.5 +12 and 11.5 -1. A little bit apprehensive about how they will fit once the rubber go's on tbh.

Love these coupes, have not gone through the whole thread but the semi trailing arm rear suspension needs serious geometry changes to work well. Which nobody seems to do. BMW did it, so can you

Accusump? Should be located as close as possible to the engine to reduce supply lag, plus the electric valve is way better than the alternative. Mine is in the engine bay, electric valve switches a warning light on the dash.

You missed the trailing arm mod's by a couple of pages They're camber & toe adjustable now (well they always had a small amount toe adjustment) - still using nolothane type bushes though which might be the weak point.

I've spent a lot of time thinking about the accusump set-up, actually have the EPC sitting on the shelf but chose not to use it. Location was largely set by a lack of suitable spots in the engine bay, at one stage it was bolted to the top of the intercooler

[r33_racer]

Finally!

Good to see some updates! Ridiculously neat job with everything you have done mate. Love it!

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

worried that they may not fill the flares?

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

Also, how much to get the shafts rebuilt? think mine need to be done.

And where did you get the camber/toe kit from?

[DCIEVE]

Finally!

Good to see some updates! Ridiculously neat job with everything you have done mate. Love it!

Thanks Michael!

Also, how much to get the shafts rebuilt? think mine need to be done.

And where did you get the camber/toe kit from?

More so concerned they might sit out too far with the camber zeroed out. There aren't many tyre options at these widths so there wasn't a 'safe' option

I made some mods to the shafts so they would be properly retained in the non hr cusco mech centre I run, rebuilt one pair and partly rebuilt a second set for ~400 I think. The problem is if the CV's are worn there's nothing you can do to save them since no one sells spares, the shafts themselves aren't really an issue. So I've got three sets of shafts but only 2 sets of good cv's to go on them. It should be possible to adapt non hr cv's but it's a matter of finding someone who can point you in the right direction - most places only have experience with fwd cv's.

The camber kit is from: www.swmotorsport.com.au

[DCIEVE]

The rear guards have been welded up (thanks to Clint/Panik for a pro job ) and with the arrival of the tyres I've been able to do a trial fit. Everything fits/clears so I'm pretty damn pleased. The rear needs a bit more camber dialled in (currently a touch positive which makes it look odd) and there's way too much castor up front.

Evan at Garage7 has continued to be a great help locating various parts I need - most interesting is the Ross crank trigger set-up (& cam trigger for sync) and custom balancer which deletes the a/c & ps pulley's giving me a heap more radiator clearance (making it possible to change pump belts without removing the radiator!).

Motor is in the build and wiring should be happening in the next week or two so it's starting to come together at last

[EVILS13]

I do believe one of your fabircators has done some more work????

Interesting to see that the WG pipes were done over a year ago, seems like yesterday

[Sir Lord Van Von Vader'ham]

Thanks man for the link. im a gimp and cant find the kit, would you be able to send me the link to the actual page please

Looking very awesome sitting on the gound now too!

[fatz]

Looking tits mate

[DCIEVE]

After Clint welded up the rear guards the car went to Owen at Melthams to repaint the rear quarters - Clint did a great job with the welding but we chose to cut the guards as high as possible due to the size of the wheels so there were a few small burns that went just past the flare line. Owen and his brother spent a lot of time matching the paint, overall very happy with the way the rear quarters have turned out.

At this stage I'm using 285 and 315 r888's on the 10.5 front and 11.5 rear wheels respectively. Longer term I'm planning to move to the grooved Kumho/Hoosier tyres that are popular in the US.

When trial fitting the new seats I found they foul on the factory door trims - I tossed up having the door trims modified but in the end making a flat door card seemed the simpler option. I made up a rear firewall while I was at it. Both are done in aluminium sheet (based on cardboard templates I gave to a local fabricator) and secured using nutserts. They're off being flocked at the moment.

[masTers]

Great work as usual Nick, nice choice with Owen too, him and his family do alot of great work, and are always prepared to go an extra step to get it done right.