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Hr31 Coupe Rb26 (For Now)


DCIEVE

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  • 3 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

This is looking great! Well done!

Cheers!

updates?

Yep! Got the old girl running a few weeks back which was a massive relief. We're just chipping away at the last few parts of the wiring before it gets a check over from the engine builder and then heads to the dyno.

Wiring up the steering wheel, three buttons will control the dash and the fourth is spare on a separate connector (could be used for radio for example).

C72A03E6-D6E8-47D3-8F38-7E60C71DF7C4_zps

Ditched the really rough bonnet pin install and replaced them with some aerocatch latches. Really cleans up the front end.

9A781DE4-EBC6-4077-B58B-BFE733EE389D_zps

Obviously there has been heaps of wiring progress but everyone knows what a deutsch connector looks like!

A vid of the first start-up holding it at 2000rpm to run in the cams. Next start will be on the dyno for run in hopefully.

http://vid209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/hr31rb26coupe/HR31%20track%20prep/6C25291D-B6A6-44A5-9131-D5B019E00E8B_zpsizifezb5.mp4

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Cheers!

Yep! Got the old girl running a few weeks back which was a massive relief. We're just chipping away at the last few parts of the wiring before it gets a check over from the engine builder and then heads to the dyno.

Wiring up the steering wheel, three buttons will control the dash and the fourth is spare on a separate connector (could be used for radio for example).

C72A03E6-D6E8-47D3-8F38-7E60C71DF7C4_zps

Ditched the really rough bonnet pin install and replaced them with some aerocatch latches. Really cleans up the front end.

9A781DE4-EBC6-4077-B58B-BFE733EE389D_zps

Obviously there has been heaps of wiring progress but everyone knows what a deutsch connector looks like!

A vid of the first start-up holding it at 2000rpm to run in the cams. Next start will be on the dyno for run in hopefully.

http://vid209.photobucket.com/albums/bb146/hr31rb26coupe/HR31%20track%20prep/6C25291D-B6A6-44A5-9131-D5B019E00E8B_zpsizifezb5.mp4

Awesome to see you finally getting there... Can't wait to see it out on track soon!

Are you going to run the wires through the steering wheel boss? I have a certain distaste for those curly telephone cord wires

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Wish i had as much patience as you do, the attention to detail is amazing!!

Cant wait for action vids...

Thanks! Hopefully the action vids are not too far away!

Awesome to see you finally getting there... Can't wait to see it out on track soon!

Are you going to run the wires through the steering wheel boss? I have a certain distaste for those curly telephone cord wires

Thanks Simon! The curly chord will run along the column... there are boss kits with integral connectors so the chord isn't required but they're not cheap :( What sort of issues have you seen with them?

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Nick how is this weapon going??

It was up and running but put a hole in the radiator on the dyno. Just needs a new radiator and its good to go! I'll do a proper update tonight :)

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would love to see some pics of wiring harness and placment when you get a chance :)

No worries, few images below. The body loom follows the tunnel to the rear of the car, relay's and breakers tucked up behind the glovebox and then the loom heads forward of the firewall via bulkheads. The engine loom bulkhead sits just below the plenum and the body loom is on the drivers side.

Crank and cam trigger terminations
B7289D15-5C04-4FBC-96E2-E1A0B5571804_zps
51547404-DE1C-4B42-A44C-6611127EBE2B_zps
The beginning of the body loom
4F9DD629-2673-4CD1-B956-72FA7EDCDB01_zps
This is the engine bay end of the body loom, basically just wiring for the indicators, two fans and headlights... It has all been terminated and tucked away now.
8EA4A217-1EDD-4B81-9D3E-0522FA8D247A_zps
The battery isolation works well, push buttons for isolation/emergency shut down :)
A4ACFA51-CCD0-4899-B59E-73BCD01E46D0_zps
Basically the whole lot looks like that with deutsch connectors etc.

Hey Nick how is this weapon going??

Ok updates...

Had a pretty eventful day on the dyno, can confirm it throws pretty blue flames at all exits :)
Had the joy of driving the car to the dyno, first time behind the wheel in more than 4 years (I think). Much to my relief the brakes, clutch etc all worked as they should and I made it to the dyno with nothing breaking/falling off. It's surprisingly quite nice to drive.
I was lucky to have two tuners on the job plus Masters running support.
519C1D4F-1A48-41C9-A230-DF1FF1DCBC70_zps
3B78E89C-E7AD-42ED-A1F5-B876DA3CD824_zps
So light load tuning on running in oil progressed well. Ran about 420hp at spring pressure (~14psi) and was spewing some epic flames.
Dumped oil, changed filter and it was time to get into it a bit more. Started blowing out spark so out came the run of the mill copper plugs.
5A19A5CE-E965-4083-8791-D43416B51D2D_zps
Replaced those with some fancy Champion race plugs with recessed electrodes and the problem got worse. So back in went the NGK's with a smaller gap. Two hot swaps of plugs was very f*cking unpleasant but problem sorted.
The ipotato combined with photobucket destroys the sound quality sadly. Hopefully these work...
We were hovering around the 490hp mark at 18psi progressively feeding in more timing (it loves lots of advance, NA motor levels) all going well and then out came the coolant :(
32E42EB4-E157-4190-88A3-8CCCECAC3F36_zps
93FECEBC-1449-4051-BC08-30FF9C65B0BA_zps
Luckily caught it very early so water temps were still very low and it didn't lose the oil pump belt (thank f**k for the pulley shields). The aim was to tune for 500-550hp or 20psi whichever came first as a sort of starting point (with the intention to wind it up to 2bar once it has done some work) so we weren't far off. Seems the cam timing is a long way out though as the power curve takes a dive around 7k so I'd say there's a lot left in it.
Was pretty down at the time but all up it was a pretty good day, motor ran well, it's making good power and it drives well. Lumpy has been trying to talk me into a revised radiator combo anyway so this might be a good opportunity to do it properly (or at least better).
Some more vids

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Good to see its finally all running!

Shame about the radiator! How did it move to foul on the pump drive??

So a new twin pass radiator or something along those lines?

I mustn't have used loctite on the grub screws and didn't put a shield on the radiator, two mistakes I won't be repeating! It was the key steel that did the damage though.

Yep PWR are drawing up a cross flow radiator at the moment, will also add a swirl pot and make a new header tank. Then back to the dyno to sort out the cam timing.

What wiring and where did you source it for the loom/harness? Its costing me a fortune and I am only doing patch looms, fan looms etc

A mix of cov's and rs components while the deutsch gear was ordered out of the US. The materials and hours definitely add up....

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I just checked our dry sump pump and noticed we have a 1/4" bolt with a large washer screwed into the end of the pump shaft which looks like it would stop the pulley and key from possible running forward right off the shaft if it were to ever come loose.

Does your shaft have a thread in the end? If so it might be worthwhile putting a bolt and washer in there as a potential back up in case it ever comes loose again and tries to walk off the shaft.

Sorry to hear about that mate. Its always the little things you least expect that ruin it all!

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I just checked our dry sump pump and noticed we have a 1/4" bolt with a large washer screwed into the end of the pump shaft which looks like it would stop the pulley and key from possible running forward right off the shaft if it were to ever come loose.

Does your shaft have a thread in the end? If so it might be worthwhile putting a bolt and washer in there as a potential back up in case it ever comes loose again and tries to walk off the shaft.

Sorry to hear about that mate. Its always the little things you least expect that ruin it all!

Yep it's tapped 1/4" so I'll stick a bolt and washer in there, thanks for the tip :)

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  • 1 month later...

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