Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Be interesting to see how you go with the OS Giken box. A friend had a twin T67 R32 GTR with a Trust box that went bang so was replaced with the OS Giken sequential that also went bang. He was making something bonkers like 600rwkws from memory. He gave up on having that much power after the box problems with some of the thinking being that it was part shifting with all 4 wheels blazing in lower gears hurting what I think was 3rd gear. He was running a Fcon so wasnt running ignition cut which I think would make a big difference

Be interesting to see how you go with the OS Giken box. A friend had a twin T67 R32 GTR with a Trust box that went bang so was replaced with the OS Giken sequential that also went bang. He was making something bonkers like 600rwkws from memory. He gave up on having that much power after the box problems with some of the thinking being that it was part shifting with all 4 wheels blazing in lower gears hurting what I think was 3rd gear. He was running a Fcon so wasnt running ignition cut which I think would make a big difference

Thanks for the advise.

Gearbox breaking is always the case in every high powered Gtr. Ignition cut does help however im trying to go the next step is having sensors in the gearbox for ignition cut to occur when the dog gears are lined up. Motec have done it with Hollinger so ill find out more and get back to you 8)

I have heard that the Hollinger is usually paired with an R32 GTR transfer case when installed in a GTR. The later model transfer cases are somehow different, and doesn't apparently easily (possibly at all) adapt to the R33/R34 transfer cases. (The person that told me this might have not had all the facts too, as seems to be typical for most high end GTR stuff)

I would imagine that becase of this difference, and how the R32 GTR doesn't run a preload on the transfer case it would also make the AWD system slower to respond. Perhaps potentially making the car a little more prone to power over steer compared to the r33/r34's tendancy to understeer. It realyl would be interesting to know if there is a difference. Ive always prefered the R32 to drive to the R33/R34's.

Internal sensor switches that detect when the selector forks are fully in the engaged position is definatly the way to go too. By enabling an ignition cut at the start of the shift and re-enabling ignition when fully engaged you will get the fastest possible reliable shift. Potentially faster than a fixed delay too. Safe shift speeds could vary at low RPM and road speeds vs high RPM and high road speeds, not to mention lubrication viscosity, temperature etc.

If the OS88 is a no hasle direct bolt in, there is no question as to which way to go. One of these is definatly on my wish list.

The Hollinger RB26 transmission will bolt up to any of the GTR transfer cases. There is slight internal clutch differences 32,33&34 but the overall principal is the same.

We've removed hollingers from 32's and swapped them straight into 34's using the 34 transfer case.

Same deal applies with the OS88.

Bobby have you looked into the Motorsport systems strain gauges.

I know touring cars guys who have done what you are contemplating with hollingers and they reverted back to one of Anthony's shifters for shear reliability and simplicity.

I have heard that the Hollinger is usually paired with an R32 GTR transfer case when installed in a GTR. The later model transfer cases are somehow different, and doesn't apparently easily (possibly at all) adapt to the R33/R34 transfer cases. (The person that told me this might have not had all the facts too, as seems to be typical for most high end GTR stuff)

I would imagine that becase of this difference, and how the R32 GTR doesn't run a preload on the transfer case it would also make the AWD system slower to respond. Perhaps potentially making the car a little more prone to power over steer compared to the r33/r34's tendancy to understeer. It realyl would be interesting to know if there is a difference. Ive always prefered the R32 to drive to the R33/R34's.

Internal sensor switches that detect when the selector forks are fully in the engaged position is definatly the way to go too. By enabling an ignition cut at the start of the shift and re-enabling ignition when fully engaged you will get the fastest possible reliable shift. Potentially faster than a fixed delay too. Safe shift speeds could vary at low RPM and road speeds vs high RPM and high road speeds, not to mention lubrication viscosity, temperature etc.

If the OS88 is a no hasle direct bolt in, there is no question as to which way to go. One of these is definatly on my wish list.

post-22701-0-27885700-1354095498_thumb.png

The idea of ignition cut isn't to kill ignition for the entire gear change either.

You only need to cut ignition to release the load between the dogs & engagement rings so you can actually pull the box out of gear.

Physically selecting the next gear with power applied to the engine isn't an issue at all.

Knowing when the selector is fully engaged is irrelevant, you only need to know when the gear is about to be disengaged. Strain gauges do the best job as they can anticipate the upcoming gear change by the force being applied to the stick and the Rate it's being applied (fast gear change vs slow gear change requires a different cut time for the time it takes to disengage the gear)

Hollingers old school micro switch "rocker knobs" are just an on/off switch that indicates the stick is being pulled and leaves the cut time to the ecu. It's a constant cut time and doesn't take Into account how hard and quickly the change is being attempted.

The Hollinger RB26 transmission will bolt up to any of the GTR transfer cases. There is slight internal clutch differences 32,33&34 but the overall principal is the same.

We've removed hollingers from 32's and swapped them straight into 34's using the 34 transfer case.

Same deal applies with the OS88.

Bobby have you looked into the Motorsport systems strain gauges.

I know touring cars guys who have done what you are contemplating with hollingers and they reverted back to one of Anthony's shifters for shear reliability and simplicity.

Hollinger and Os88 gearbox only fits an R32 or R33 transfercase as the R34 transfer case as a different bolt pattern.

Can you send me Anthony's details and ill call Motec to find out pros and cons about the exact setup

I have heard that the Hollinger is usually paired with an R32 GTR transfer case when installed in a GTR. The later model transfer cases are somehow different, and doesn't apparently easily (possibly at all) adapt to the R33/R34 transfer cases. (The person that told me this might have not had all the facts too, as seems to be typical for most high end GTR stuff)

I would imagine that becase of this difference, and how the R32 GTR doesn't run a preload on the transfer case it would also make the AWD system slower to respond. Perhaps potentially making the car a little more prone to power over steer compared to the r33/r34's tendancy to understeer. It realyl would be interesting to know if there is a difference. Ive always prefered the R32 to drive to the R33/R34's.

Internal sensor switches that detect when the selector forks are fully in the engaged position is definatly the way to go too. By enabling an ignition cut at the start of the shift and re-enabling ignition when fully engaged you will get the fastest possible reliable shift. Potentially faster than a fixed delay too. Safe shift speeds could vary at low RPM and road speeds vs high RPM and high road speeds, not to mention lubrication viscosity, temperature etc.

If the OS88 is a no hasle direct bolt in, there is no question as to which way to go. One of these is definatly on my wish list.

Am using a R32 gtr transfer case however going to run more preload so its similar to a R34 gtr transfer case.

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...