Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i canceled my engine order.brand new was 2100 usd lol. there is just NO aftermarket support. better off with a vq35hr. 7krpm i would sayfor the vk45. same as a vh45 except with titanium valves and vct and direct bucket valve system instead of rockers.

well i canceled my engine order.brand new was 2100 usd lol. there is just NO aftermarket support. better off with a vq35hr. 7krpm i would sayfor the vk45. same as a vh45 except with titanium valves and vct and direct bucket valve system instead of rockers.

Doesn't the vh45de have variable valve timing too?

Looks like it's going to be an awesome build mate, keep us posted!

Edited by Galois

it is my understanding that VQ35hrs out of 350zs do NOT have variable valve _LIFT_ but the VQ out of the 370z does (VQ37hr) and any other VQs that are hr from the new series. No idea why nissan called the old vq35hr that, it is very different to the VQ35de, but the valve lift is what makes HRs _THE BOMB_ in my book :). PS the new luxary infiniti M56 has a 5.6 litre V8 with valve lift.. get that one ;) VK56hr or something :).

Just to clarify, i'm not talking about variable valve timing, that shiz is old news.. if you haven't heard about variable valve lift look up BMW valvetronic.

Anyway I totally agree a v-configuration AWD gt-r is the go, especially an R32 ;). Even nissan mucked around with the idea before they released the R32! If I ever had to ditch the 26 in my 4-door i'd be going VQ30DET or VQ37HR :)

What about the VQ35HR's in the V36 Skylines? I have one in my V36 sedan. If you tell me what to look for I can poke around, but it's mostly covered up and I'm too mechanically retarded/lazy to get underneath it all :)

How about using a R32 front diff, cut it off the sump, a bit of milling and tapping here, maybe weld some lugs on, then make a bracket which holds it to the new engine or to the subframe. Just a thought.

Dave how do you think you will go with engine positioning in the bay?

The rb's diff is towards the front of the motor, the v6 being nearly half the length would have to sit a long way forward in the bay to keep the axles squarish

lol. well the rwd sump is all of 130usd direct from infinity parts in usa. just so cheap for all that stuff. there are a few with bolt on turbos with stock internals running 6-10 pound making 500hp at wheels. (dyno dynamics) so the hp potential shits all over the good ol rb....

the sr20ve has a system similar to honda vtec. the new nissan ve or vvel is a wierd ass system with only the exhaust cam and a a very strage rocker/eccentric set up.

i do prefer the 35hr wich you can buy an number of differant cams for them.

if i was going to leave it stock then the 37 would be a great choice. but i would not be able to use the factory ecu to control it as its integrated into the whole car. ie: remove the radio and it wont start....

here is the skope of the vvel intake cam lift and is capable of an impressive 13mm lift factory

600_VVEL_structure.jpg

intake.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...